removing the pumpkin

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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ok, so awesome write up on removing the pumpkin, and I had a few questions for those of you who have removed it.

1. How long does it take to accomplish?

I have limited hand tools ( torque wrench ill have when i replace it later ) I just want to see what unique tools I might need. So far from the thread I need:

36mm socket to remove the axel nut, dont have that
12mm to remove driveshaft from pumpkin - got that


it states just remove different parts like spindles and calipers, I would like to know if theres any special tools or if anyone knows what size tools ill need off hand when I do this.

The writer used a lift, I will be using a jack and stands. I do not have a tranny jack but i'm sure i can make do with another jack that I have, unless its impossible to get the pumpkin off without one.
 
when i did my gears it was just under 2 hours start to finish on a lift. this included installing and setting up the 3.55s
 
ok, im just talking about taking it out. Is it pretty straight forward to get that pumpkin out of there, im just trying to figure out what tools i need to buy/borrow/aquire
 
If you don't already have one, I would get a 12 mm ratchet wrench for the driveshaft bolts, that's what I use and it seems to save me a bit of time on removal and install. They are 12 point heads, so make sure the wrench has 12 points. I would also get a good wrench set with sizes ranging all the way up to at least 24mm.
Also, you don't need to remove the axle nut and the axle from the spindle.....All you really need to do is unbolt the spindles (after unbolting the brake calipers) and let them hang on either side. You will see that one of the bottom bolts will not be able to be removed without cutting it due to the axle shaft being in the way. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get under there. You'll need a large TORX head socket for the bolt head side of it and either a 21mm or 24mm wrench for the nut. I think the top bolt is 18mm and 21mm. I can't remember for sure.
Anyway......if you unbolt the spindles and let them hang, (don't forget to unbolt the differential from the frame) you can pop the axles loose with a prybar from the pumpkin and "finagle" (sp?) the pumpkin out by pushing it to one side (to the left, for instance) and pulling the axle out of the other side of it (the right side), and then pull the whole thing out.
That's what I did the first time I pulled it out. The second time I did it, I just cut off part of the head of one of those TORX head bolts on the spindle and squeezed it out underneath the axle. That enabled me to just remove the spindle and axle both, as an assembly, from one side. With one side removed you can pull the differential down really easily.
I did it this way because, frankly, I think if I were to remove the axle nut, I wouldn't be able to get it back on. The threads are so corroded, I'm pretty sure they would just flake off. It's really weird...that's the only thing rusting/corroding on the entire car! New axle shafts are on my list of things to get. This procedure enabled me to get around that for the time being. I also think it helps with the total amount of time it takes to do the job. I can get the differential out of the car in about 30 minutes doing it the way I described above.

If I were you, I would try it the way I said, and if for some reason you can't get it, use your original plan as a backup. It can't hurt.
 
as for a tranny jack.....just make sure you have something to support the differential when you unbolt it. If you have a jack that will reach it while the car is on stands, that should probably work.

Good luck, and try to have fun! :p
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
If you don't already have one, I would get a 12 mm ratchet wrench for the driveshaft bolts, that's what I use and it seems to save me a bit of time on removal and install. They are 12 point heads, so make sure the wrench has 12 points. I would also get a good wrench set with sizes ranging all the way up to at least 24mm.
Also, you don't need to remove the axle nut and the axle from the spindle.....All you really need to do is unbolt the spindles (after unbolting the brake calipers) and let them hang on either side. You will see that one of the bottom bolts will not be able to be removed without cutting it due to the axle shaft being in the way. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get under there. You'll need a large TORX head socket for the bolt head side of it and either a 21mm or 24mm wrench for the nut. I think the top bolt is 18mm and 21mm. I can't remember for sure.
Anyway......if you unbolt the spindles and let them hang, (don't forget to unbolt the differential from the frame) you can pop the axles loose with a prybar from the pumpkin and "finagle" (sp?) the pumpkin out by pushing it to one side (to the left, for instance) and pulling the axle out of the other side of it (the right side), and then pull the whole thing out.
That's what I did the first time I pulled it out. The second time I did it, I just cut off part of the head of one of those TORX head bolts on the spindle and squeezed it out underneath the axle. That enabled me to just remove the spindle and axle both, as an assembly, from one side. With one side removed you can pull the differential down really easily.
I did it this way because, frankly, I think if I were to remove the axle nut, I wouldn't be able to get it back on. The threads are so corroded, I'm pretty sure they would just flake off. It's really weird...that's the only thing rusting/corroding on the entire car! New axle shafts are on my list of things to get. This procedure enabled me to get around that for the time being. I also think it helps with the total amount of time it takes to do the job. I can get the differential out of the car in about 30 minutes doing it the way I described above.

If I were you, I would try it the way I said, and if for some reason you can't get it, use your original plan as a backup. It can't hurt.
Click to expand...

im a bit confused, to do this your way with out removal the axle nut (which i would rather do) i have to cut a bolt? how exactly do i go about cutting a part of that bolt?
 
You don't HAVE to cut the bolt. You can remove the diff with the axles in place and the spindles hanging. You should be able to tell exactly which bolt I'm talking about once you're under it, but I'll try and explain it a little better....
The bolt head uses a TORX bit, therefore it is recessed where the torx bit engages the bolt head. The bolt head is actually about 2 inches wide. I just cut a horizontal line across the bolt head with a pea grinder. Again, you'll see why you need to do this to get the bolt out once you're under it.
If you can find a new bolt (maybe advance or autozone would carry it?), you could just cut the head of it off with a hacksaw or something and put the new one in from the other side of the hole. I would run out to the garage and snap a picture, but the car is at the body shop right now.
I drew this picture up in paint. It's late and I'm tired, so please forgive the crappiness.
If you would rather just remove the axle nut and go that way, by all means, go ahead, I'm just offering you the procedure that I did. You don't have to do it my way. Just go with what you feel comfortable with. :)
Good luck!

Untitled.jpg
 
well i appreciate the help... most definetly - the drawing is great. but basically what your saying is i dont need to take the axle nut off, and no one seems to disagree with that.
 
i took 1 axle nut off (passenger side) and left the drivers side intact.

once the passenger side rear suspension was taken apart, the diff slid out the passenger side with no problems.
if I remember correctly Geno@LMS suggested this techique way back "in the day".

Start to finish to the dragstrip was 2 hours
 
i got under there today, and i dont see how you can take that pumpkin out with out taking the axle nut off?
 
Hmmm, I'm going to go yank a Cougar pumkin tomorro, came into the junkyard I work at, loaded with a posi. I'm hoping I can do this in less than an hour at the yard.
 
i dunno, im still a littled confused about what stuff to start yanking apart. i get the premise of doing it, you remove the pass. side axle from the pumpkin and unbolt the drive shaft. then wiggle the pumpkin moving towards the pass wheel - with the axle out to disengage it from the drivers side axle.

i got under the car and was a little confused, someone said that you can do it with out removing the axle nut (36mm 250 lbs tq) i dont see how thats possible!
 
sooo its much easier to just take that axle nut off? it does look kinda ugly! i see why the guy above here didnt want to take it off.
 
kustomizingkid said:
Hmmm, I'm going to go yank a Cougar pumkin tomorro, came into the junkyard I work at, loaded with a posi. I'm hoping I can do this in less than an hour at the yard.
Click to expand...

a cougar would be good practice on pulling the pumpkin, but it will have differences with the lower control arm due to it being cast vs aluminum, so all the lower bolts at the knuckle will differ greatly from a mark making the job much easier.

when we pulled the pumpkin in the bird we removed the 2 lower bolts at the knuckle, removed the caliper from the knuckle, poped the axle free of the diff, then reached in and grabbed the inner axle joint and pulled to us swinging the knuckle up with the axle still in it and just stuck the axle in a pocket in the arm kinda holding itself out of the way, unbolted the pumpkin and the drive shaft dropped the diff down on a angle and slid it off the other axle shaft. as long as the bolts come loose its a 30 min job tops only prob i see with the mark is the front lower knuckle bolt hitting the axle, but some have said it will come, i personally havent done it on a mark (yet)
 
chickenviii said:
a cougar would be good practice on pulling the pumpkin, but it will have differences with the lower control arm due to it being cast vs aluminum, so all the lower bolts at the knuckle will differ greatly from a mark making the job much easier.

when we pulled the pumpkin in the bird we removed the 2 lower bolts at the knuckle, removed the caliper from the knuckle, poped the axle free of the diff, then reached in and grabbed the inner axle joint and pulled to us swinging the knuckle up with the axle still in it and just stuck the axle in a pocket in the arm kinda holding itself out of the way, unbolted the pumpkin and the drive shaft dropped the diff down on a angle and slid it off the other axle shaft. as long as the bolts come loose its a 30 min job tops only prob i see with the mark is the front lower knuckle bolt hitting the axle, but some have said it will come, i personally havent done it on a mark (yet)
Click to expand...

ok so you dont really need to take off the axle nut?
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
ok, so awesome write up on removing the pumpkin, and I had a few questions for those of you who have removed it.

1. How long does it take to accomplish?

I have limited hand tools ( torque wrench ill have when i replace it later ) I just want to see what unique tools I might need. So far from the thread I need:

36mm socket to remove the axel nut, dont have that
12mm to remove driveshaft from pumpkin - got that


it states just remove different parts like spindles and calipers, I would like to know if theres any special tools or if anyone knows what size tools ill need off hand when I do this.

The writer used a lift, I will be using a jack and stands. I do not have a tranny jack but i'm sure i can make do with another jack that I have, unless its impossible to get the pumpkin off without one.
Click to expand...
where is the write up on removing the rear end pumpkin?
 
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