Recommended Brake Pads, Rotors and Fluid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 20330
  • Start date Start date
D

Deleted member 20330

Guest
Does anyone have a recommendation on brake pads (front and rear), rotors and fluid for a Gen 2 ?

For the front pads, I was looking at the Hawk Performance HB416F.689 HPS Performance Ceramic Brake Pads.
 
probably going to be louder and dust a lot more than stock replacements.
also may or may not work better than OEM until they get into their operating temp.
 
I use Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads with orginal rotors (cleaned properly) on my 95 and on my CE. They do the job well. I don't hot rod , just a regular driver. The 95's the wifes DD and she's a last minute braker.
 
OP, what's the intended usage? Are you more concerned with reduced dust/noise, bite when cold, reduced fade when hot, etc.? Is this a daily driver, or is it flogged pretty hard every time you get the car out?
 
OP, what's the intended usage? Are you more concerned with reduced dust/noise, bite when cold, reduced fade when hot, etc.? Is this a daily driver, or is it flogged pretty hard every time you get the car out?

racecougar,

This is a daily driver with 90% city driving. 30% of the city driving is in rush hour bumper to bumper traffic with rare last second stops. The car is not used to race to and brake hard at each light.

The car is located in the southeast with flat terrain and temperatures averaging above 75° F most of the year.

In order of priority: stopping power, sound, durability and dust.

They more I read, my preferences so far would be:

1) Metallic brake pads

2) ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid since it can last up to 3 years before needing to be changed.

Since the car has always used OEM brake pads, my experience with impressive stopping power has always involved someone else's car (i.e, BMWs). When I look at information for pads like Hawk's, I'm can't tell if I'll regret upgrading because some opinions would lead one to believe that you'll be flying through the wind shield every time you touch the brake pedal. Would the increased stopping power only be noticed when both the brakes pads and rotors are upgraded ?

I've never noticed the sound made by the OEM pads that have always been on the car. However, that should be balanced with my never being impressed with their stopping power. If you didn't know that your OEM brakes pads had been replaced with another brand with equivalent stopping power, but allegedly more noise, would the sound difference be that obvious ?

In terms of durability, the pads shouldn't wear out or lose most of their stopping power in the first 20,000 miles with a driver that doesn't constantly ride the brake. Warranties don't appear to be a factor in comparison since most of them are 90 days or 3,000 miles. A few brands offer a limited lifetime warranty, but given all their exclusions, they don't seem to offer any additional value.

I'm not sure that dust is that much of an issue if the car is frequently washed and the wheels cleaned. Even though the car has the chrome LSC rims, I haven't had a problem with keeping them clean.

I've also read the rear brake pads are smaller than the fronts and are difficult to find. Is this true ? Is it better to have a matching set of front and rear pads or can you have a brand in front that's different from the rear.
 
This is a daily driver with 90% city driving. 30% of the city driving is in rush hour bumper to bumper traffic with rare last second stops. The car is not used to race to and brake hard at each light.

I'd steer clear of any "race" type pads then, as they have to be warmed up before they really start to bite. Different brake pad compounds have different heat ranges in which they work well. A street pad will be designed to have good stopping characteristics at lower temps, at the expense of fade as they heat up. As you go up the spectrum through high-performance street and into race pads, you move into pads that require a good deal of heat before they start working well, but they're able to handle high temps without fading.

Since the car has always used OEM brake pads, my experience with impressive stopping power has always involved someone else's car (i.e, BMWs). When I look at information for pads like Hawk's, I'm can't tell if I'll regret upgrading because some opinions would lead one to believe that you'll be flying through the wind shield every time you touch the brake pedal. Would the increased stopping power only be noticed when both the brakes pads and rotors are upgraded ?

They really don't feel any different under normal ("stop and go" type) light braking. No, the rotors don't require upgrading.


I've also read the rear brake pads are smaller than the fronts and are difficult to find. Is this true ? Is it better to have a matching set of front and rear pads or can you have a brand in front that's different from the rear.

It's certainly preferable to have matching pads front and rear, but it's isn't a deal-breaker. As a matter of fact, I run a set of Porterfield R4-S pads on the front of my XR7 with PBR calipers and a set of parts store specials (I think they're Wearever Silvers or Golds) on the rear with stock calipers. That car has great braking characteristics with that setup, though the R4-S pads require a little heat in them before they start really biting well.

For your usage, you could run anything from a typical replacement pad up to the Hawk HPS pads and be happy, IMO. The pad that I would suggest as a best fit for you would be the EBC Ultimax pads (UD598 front and UD599 rear). It's a step above what you'll find at the auto parts store, but a little less "race" than the Hawk HPS pads.
 
Decided on Raybestos as they currently have a $50 rebate and appear to be a slight upgrade over OEM.


Raybestos 66749 Front Disc Brake Rotor $45.94

Raybestos ATD598C Brake Pad Set Front $53.86

Raybestos 66335R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor $24.77

Raybestos PGD708M Brake Pad Set Rear $40.76

Raybestos H6003 Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip $8.60
 
Decided on Raybestos as they currently have a $50 rebate and appear to be a slight upgrade over OEM.


Raybestos 66749 Front Disc Brake Rotor $45.94

Raybestos ATD598C Brake Pad Set Front $53.86

Raybestos 66335R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor $24.77

Raybestos PGD708M Brake Pad Set Rear $40.76

Raybestos H6003 Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip $8.60
Sounds like a nice package deal. I would run that stuff on any DD I owned.
 
For the rear you need piston retract tool. This tool applies pressure to the back caliper piston as you turn it in clockwise. These can be tough sometimes with age.
 
Age of the caliper or age of the person working on the caliper ?
 
When installing a new rotor, should thread locker or anti-seize be used on the caliper bolts and brake hose line ?

If so, what type ?
 
what i have seen come loose are bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the spindle. lock tite those 2 bolts.
 
When installing a new rotor, should thread locker or anti-seize be used on the caliper bolts and brake hose line ?

If so, what type ?
I put my rear calps on last night, the fronts a little while back...I used blue thread lock on those bolts, they're a little awkward to get at but don't skimp on tork. I think the manual calls for 60-90 ft/lbs?
my $0.02: If you can't get an 18'' ratchet on there to crank on; bang on the shorter ratchet with a heavy dead blow hammer to get max tork
 
I purchased Raybestos' Friction Ready Caliper, Remanufactured, FRC10413 and FRC10414 for the front axle.

They have a one piece design compared to the OEM caliper having a two piece design - the pads can be removed without removing the caliper.

Is this a problem or does the OEM two piece design make it easier to replace the pads ?
 
what i have seen come loose are bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the spindle. lock tite those 2 bolts.

chris2523,

The brake hose connected to the caliper should not have threadlocker or anti-seize applied, correct ?
 
I put my rear calps on last night, the fronts a little while back...I used blue thread lock on those bolts, they're a little awkward to get at but don't skimp on tork. I think the manual calls for 60-90 ft/lbs?
my $0.02: If you can't get an 18'' ratchet on there to crank on; bang on the shorter ratchet with a heavy dead blow hammer to get max tork

dnsherrill,

Like these ... ?

LOCTITE 37643 Blue Medium Strength Threadlocker Stick

... http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=B0053ZNMDE

Permatex 24005 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue Gel

... http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=B0013K3YRW
 
I purchased Raybestos' Friction Ready Caliper, Remanufactured, FRC10413 and FRC10414 for the front axle.

They have a one piece design compared to the OEM caliper having a two piece design - the pads can be removed without removing the caliper.

Is this a problem or does the OEM two piece design make it easier to replace the pads ?
 
The pictures that RockAuto shows for those part numbers look just like the stock calipers. Post pictures of the calipers you bought.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top