Rebuild injectors?

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Mechanicboy

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I'm taking my lower intake off to change my PCV valve and was thinking of having the injectors checked and possibly rebuilt. They local shop charges $10 to check and $25 to rebuild each injector(is they test and i have then rebuild it's not $35, it's still only $25 each).

My question is is it worth it to rebuild my injectors or should I just replace them if there's a problem? Or should I even worry about testing the injectors as I don't currently have any known problems with them?
 
Well this sucks, I have to wait until friday for the parts to be in for the parts to come in for the PCV valve. At least I got the PCV valve replaced, it was more work then I thought it was going to be but she's in there waiting for the other pieces.

I went to the shop that said they could rebuild/clean the injectors and they said they couldn't do it because the adapter has been on back order for 4 years. WTF? It was a royal PITA to get the injectors out of the lower intake. I did do some research and found that a rebuild is basically just replacing the seals, screens and doing a sonic cleaning.

So my question still stands, should I try to find another shop in another town that might be able to do the cleaning or should I just put the SOBs back?

I'm also going to see if I can get valve cover gaskets before Friday and if i can then I'm going to go ahead and do those too while I'm in there.

I tried contacting five star ford but they sent me to a voice male box that was disconnected.
 
These cars are not 80's chevrolets, injectors today give little to no problem, the only issue I get from "dirty injectors" is not actually a dirty injector, it is crud and sludge built up in the intake just at the injector tip, running quality gas and changing oil regularly reduces this build up, also where did you get your PCV valve, is it a Ford/Motorcraft? just sounds like your going a little overboard on maintenance.
 
EDIT...this is a V-6 not a V-8 like I guessed...price is for a V-8...sorry.
V-6 gaskets are not kits but a v/c gasket and a spark plug aperture gasket..much cheaper than the V-8 kits.

Hi
I do not know who or how you got sent to a dead end voice mailbox????
Sorry .
Anyway I can get those gasket sets to you by tomorrow if need be and will split the cost b/c you did not get my voice mail. The sets go for 57.00 each and would cost you 46.24 each set which includes the o rings.
Email me directly at the email or phone below and Ill get right back to you.

Thank You
Max Zuckerberg
Parts Specialist
Five Star Ford
7100 east Mc Dowell Road
Scottsdale AZ 85257
Direct 1-800-866-1520 ext 236
Fax 1-480-949-8478
parts@fivestarford.com
 
Last edited:
jt351 said:
These cars are not 80's chevrolets, injectors today give little to no problem, the only issue I get from "dirty injectors" is not actually a dirty injector, it is crud and sludge built up in the intake just at the injector tip, running quality gas and changing oil regularly reduces this build up, also where did you get your PCV valve, is it a Ford/Motorcraft? just sounds like your going a little overboard on maintenance.
Click to expand...

So is your suggestion that I leave the injectors alone? I bought the PCV valve from napa and it's visually identical to the one I pulled off.

I plan to keep this car for a long time so I'm going to do all the maintain I think it necessary to keep it running as long as I want it to.

two sets of intake valves were open and I could still clearly see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls on both cylinders that were open and they looked clean in there. I'm going to post some pictures of a surprise I found in there in a minute

Max, When I called some lady answered and she patched me through to the bad email, I think she must have used to wrong extension so I'll try again.
 
mrzeee said:
Hi
I do not know who or how you got sent to a dead end voice mailbox????
Sorry .
Anyway I can get those gasket sets to you by tomorrow if need be and will split the cost b/c you did not get my voice mail. The sets go for 57.00 each and would cost you 46.24 each set which includes the o rings.
Email me directly at the email or phone below and Ill get right back to you.

Thank You
Max Zuckerberg
Parts Specialist
Five Star Ford
7100 east Mc Dowell Road
Scottsdale AZ 85257
Direct 1-800-866-1520 ext 236
Fax 1-480-949-8478
parts@fivestarford.com
Click to expand...

where were you when i needed you!!! i just spent 1000 on
links, 4 ls sport shocks, and 2 lower control arms....
 
In this first picture there's three things to notice. First is what looks like a rats nest right in the center. Second is the black crap in the intake runners on the back cylinders, its nasty in the upper intake too and is wet with oil. Third is notice that that black is more is some cylinders then others, I'm thinking maybe the fuel injectors are not working as well in those cylinders?

The second and third pictures are of my PCV elbow. It's collapsed and cracking but it's holding a vacuum.

The forth picture has a vacuum check valve that I think may be bad. It's not holding a vacuum between the intake tube and the manifold vacuum port, does anyone know if this is normal?

0210001422.jpg


0210001819.jpg


0210001819a.jpg


0210001820.jpg
 
About the check valve:
Check Valve

The function of the check valve is to allow manifold vacuum to enter the brake booster and prevent the escape of vacuum if manifold vacuum is lost during sustained full throttle operation. The check valve is located inside the aspirator in the brake booster vacuum hose.

To test the function of the check valve:

* Start and run the engine for at least 10 seconds.
* Operate the brake pedal to check for power assist.
* Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the engine port.
* There should be enough vacuum retained in the brake booster for at least one more power-assisted brake operation.


Injectors: I wouldn't have removed them. Now you need to replace all the o-rings. There really isn't any need to clean or rebuild them, from what I have seen.

Gunk: That's not from the injectors, it's from the crankcase. It could be excessive blow-by due to worn rings. A good cleaning of the intake manifold and valves with SeaFoam or similar might be a good idea.
 
joegr said:
About the check valve:
Check Valve

The function of the check valve is to allow manifold vacuum to enter the brake booster and prevent the escape of vacuum if manifold vacuum is lost during sustained full throttle operation. The check valve is located inside the aspirator in the brake booster vacuum hose.

To test the function of the check valve:

* Start and run the engine for at least 10 seconds.
* Operate the brake pedal to check for power assist.
* Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the engine port.
* There should be enough vacuum retained in the brake booster for at least one more power-assisted brake operation.
Click to expand...

What about the line that returns to the intake tube? Right now, engine cold and off it's an open loop from the manifold vacuum to the intake tube line basically allowing air to go from in front of the TB to behind the TB, is that normal?
 
Mechanicboy said:
What about the line that returns to the intake tube? Right now, engine cold and off it's an open loop from the manifold vacuum to the intake tube line basically allowing air to go from in front of the TB to behind the TB, is that normal?
Click to expand...

AFAIK, yes, that is the way it is designed.
 
Taurus's and other fords have this check valve setup, there is a small bleed hole designed in it. It actually bleeds off a little vacuum going to booster, why who knows but that is the way it is suppose to work. it works fine cause cause it goes after maf so it is still a closed loop. That elbow you definitely need get it at a ford dealer or this max guy on here. Oh and as the PCV valve, do yourself a favor and get a FORD OEM pcv valve, they are not all created equal. I have fixed many cars for weird idle problems and noises with aftermarket junk pcv valves.
 
joegr said:
Injectors: I wouldn't have removed them. Now you need to replace all the o-rings. There really isn't any need to clean or rebuild them, from what I have seen.

Gunk: That's not from the injectors, it's from the crankcase. It could be excessive blow-by due to worn rings. A good cleaning of the intake manifold and valves with SeaFoam or similar might be a good idea.
Click to expand...

I ordered new O-rings from max as well as the elbow other rubber neck.

I've been thinking about this and decided that I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow. What is a good PSi for the v6 engine? 150PSI at least? I know I need to look for close to even pressure between then cylinders.


jt351 said:
Taurus's and other fords have this check valve setup, there is a small bleed hole designed in it. It actually bleeds off a little vacuum going to booster, why who knows but that is the way it is suppose to work. it works fine cause cause it goes after maf so it is still a closed loop. That elbow you definitely need get it at a ford dealer or this max guy on here..
Click to expand...

After I get everything back together(assuming the compression tests good) and going well I'm going to see what happens to my idle if I plug the line going to the intake tube.
 
Please 150PSI if i remember my new v6 was in the low 200 psi range. Yes main thing is to look for even across the board.
 
Mine was 225-240PSI. 3 were 240psi, 2 were 230psi and 1 was 225, but i didn't have the charger on the battery and it may have been slowing down towards the end. I didn't get the parts from max until 7PM so I didn't get anything done other then valve cover gaskets and compression testing.
 
I was shocked at how high the cold compresstion #'s are on these V6's. Thats why we need high octane fuel for sure. Also isn't the injectors a B to get out. LOL I was lucky with my motor it was a preproduction test engine and the PCV is different then standard style. Mine has a thick rubber hose that curves up and back and a normal push in ford pcv valve goes right in, at the back of intake. I can change my pcv in seconds.
 
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