Rear Subs

mikerc

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I just got the rear deck speaker system for my 2001 LS. It originally didn't have it. The plug is there, I plugged it in and I get nothing. Am I missing something? I have the Alpine indash premium system. Please help.

Thanks
 
mikerc said:
I just got the rear deck speaker system for my 2001 LS. It originally didn't have it. The plug is there, I plugged it in and I get nothing. Am I missing something? I have the Alpine indash premium system. Please help.

Thanks
Here's the wiring....

Stereo Wiring:
According to the FOMOCO wiring diagram for 2000-2002, the factory harness connectors are wired as follows:

The large 20-pin connector:
Position 5 and 6 = right rear (- white and + gray)
Position 12 and 13 = left rear (- whit/violet and + gray/white)
Position 7 and 8 = right front (- white/red and + gray/red)
Position 14 and 15 = left front (- white/black and + gray/black)

Constant power = position 9 (orange.black)
Switched hot in start = position 3 (gray/orange)
Switched hot in run or ACC = position 10 (yellow/green)
Ground = position 16 (black/green)

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal


- so troubleshooting you problem -
the trunk connector:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)

so if you get nothing on these it is probably not connected.

On the back of the head unit there is an 8-pin connector:
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red) which goes to the pin 1 mentioned above.
 
Thanks for the reply. What is the best way of removing and checking the head unit? I don't want to break anything.
 
mikerc said:
Thanks for the reply. What is the best way of removing and checking the head unit? I don't want to break anything.
there are two sets of hex screws above and below it.

pull the top AC vents out - the top two screws are exposed

remove the ashtray - open and pull it up and out. Then remove the trim around it - pull up the top of the center concolse and the trim will pull off - exposing the two hex screws

the head simply pulls straight out.
 
Quik LS. Thanks for your help. I didn't have the speakers mounted when I tested it. Big GROUND not connected. Duh.

Works good.
 
mikerc said:
Quik LS. Thanks for your help. I didn't have the speakers mounted when I tested it. Big GROUND not connected. Duh.

Works good.
good to hear!!! (pun intended!)
 
Well I thought it was working good. But I was wrong. After hooking up a stereo to the speaker outlet it started to work. I then did a bunch of searching, and found this:

Next as noted in earlier post there is a loose gray wiring connector forward of the left trunk hinge in the trunk, even if vehicle doesn't have the subwoofer assembly. This connector has 6 wires in it. BK and RD 16 ga. are ground and power for amp. YE/RD is the sensor wire to power up amp. GY/RD and WH/RD are speaker neg and pos.for the subwoofer speakers. There is no balance control or right and left. One other terminal contains a braided shield circuit. The speaker wires are very light 22ga. as they were made to be used with an amp. The last 4 above circuits are not connected to anything with the standard system and deadend at a blue 16 pin
connector in left kick panel area which is easy to see if lower insulating pad is removed above gas/brake pedals.Audiophiles have different dash wire harnesses which would connect these circuits to radio as well as the center dash speakers and tweeter amp. The left rear door speaker wires are in a Black 20 pin con. right next to the above blue con. WH/VT is + and GY/WH is -. The right rear door speaker wires are in 20 pin Black con. in
right kick panel near glove box hinge all WT is + and all GY is -.These 4 speaker wires are 18ga. and run directing into rear doors before any other connector. Considering all this I believe upgrading to high quality and efficient 3way door speakers to be the best/most cost effective solution without cobbling up wiring. The standard radio has more than enough volume, who needs more amps. 6 by 9's in the rear deck would be nice for more bass without vibrating the side mirrors and your lower legs as I have noticed, but is it worth all the trouble.

I pulled the head unit. It has 3 plugs and the antenna. There is nothing else to plug in. I am not sure what Alpine unit I have now. It says Alpine on the left and 6-Disk on the CD door. I have the DSP button as well.

I am about ready to install an aftermarket amp and come from the right or left side rear door.

Is there any hope left?

Thanks again for your help.
Mike
 
I upgraded:
- door speakers to Alpine SPS-570A 5"x7"/6"x8" 2-way
- center console speakers to Rochford Fosgate Punch FRC3203 - 3.5" 2-way

Which made a huge difference with the quality and clarity of the sound - but still missing the bass 'thump'.

I then added Sony Xplod Amplifier/Subwoofers Package (XM-2165GTX amplifier / 2x XS-L1200B 12" subwoofer) 1000w amp driving into two subs, with a Rockford 1 Farad Digital Capacitor.

Now I can move my hair if I want it that loud.


My LS did come with the premium sound so I had a rear amp I could pull out and replace.
The connector for the rear amp is:
An 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

If you have this connector on the back of your head you can hopefully find the other end some where in the trunk.
 
Last edited:
Quik LS said:
I upgraded:
- door speakers to Alpine SPS-570A 5"x7"/6"x8" 2-way
- center console speakers to Rochford Fosgate Punch FRC3203 - 3.5" 2-way

Which made a huge difference with the quality and clarity of the sound - but still missing the bass 'thump'.

I then added Sony Xplod Amplifier/Subwoofers Package (XM-2165GTX amplifier / 2x XS-L1200B 12" subwoofer) 1000w amp driving into two subs, with a Rockford 1 Farad Digital Capacitor.

Now I can move my hair if I want it that loud.


My LS did come with the premium sound so I had a rear amp I could pull out and replace.
The connector for the rear amp is:
An 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

If you have this connector on the back of your head you can hopefully find the other end some where in the trunk.


I have the rear trunk Connector connected. How many plugs are on the back of your Stereo? I have 3 plus the antenna.
I really want to keep it as stock as possible.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,
I think I was having the same problem as you and sounds like I have the same system as you. I had absolutely no luck trying to use the trunk harness. I don't think it was even connected. I got no power off a single wire in that trunk harness. I was told it was disconnected/dead-ended somewhere under the steering wheel, but I couldn't find it. I tried running the needed wires directly off of the head unit. While they gave off signal, it wasn't enough. The remote didn't even give off enough power to turn on my amp (gave 7V, needed 12). I got mine to work by getting signal by splicing into speaker wires behind the head unit and then using a line converter to convert the signal to an RCA. I also pulled a 12V remote from behind the head unit. Running the wires through the car was easy (under the center console, under 1' of carpet, under the back seat, into the trunk). Moral of the story is: don't try using that amp out. There were a few other minor issues (especially getting some bad info off of posts on other forums and the fact that there'e like 347 different factory sound configurations for the LS), so if you have any questions or other problems, let me know. I might have already dealt with them and be able to help. I'm definitely not an expert on any of this stuff, but I did spend many hours trying to get the stupid thing to work. Good Luck.
 
Well, I finally had time to work on this issue. I had power at the rear plug but no signal. I ran a couple of wires from the rear speaker of the back of the head unit, back to the trunk and ran a high to low level converter to the stock amp sub. Work perfect. All looks stock and really kicks. I am finally happy.

Thanks to all for your help.

Mike
 
quikie kinda question. i put in some jls subs, which pound. some mb quart front components in the doors. i dont feel my front stage is quite good enough. what arethose 3.5 front speakers you guys were talking about. if iupgraded them would they need an amp on them to be heard since the entire system is now running off one of two different Jl amp's?

mayo
 
mayo12080 said:
quikie kinda question. i put in some jls subs, which pound. some mb quart front components in the doors. i dont feel my front stage is quite good enough. what arethose 3.5 front speakers you guys were talking about. if iupgraded them would they need an amp on them to be heard since the entire system is now running off one of two different Jl amp's?

mayo
the 3.5 front console speakers are there to add 'abiemance' - working with your DSP switch - and are not really made to be heard themselves. I did upgrade mine with some Rockford Fosgates and it made a 'sound quality' different - not really a volume difference though.
 
Rear speakers

What's up guys,
I am trying to install an alpine amp and two alpine 10" type r subs to my 2001 LS with the Alpine in dash 6 CD changer. I was having some problems with my amp clipping, so I hooked up a different amp entirely to test the problem. well then all of the sudden my rear door speakers shut off. I guess I blew a fuse or something somewhere but I don't know where the fuse for the speakers is. Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 
LSchan01 said:
What's up guys,
I am trying to install an alpine amp and two alpine 10" type r subs to my 2001 LS with the Alpine in dash 6 CD changer. I was having some problems with my amp clipping, so I hooked up a different amp entirely to test the problem. well then all of the sudden my rear door speakers shut off. I guess I blew a fuse or something somewhere but I don't know where the fuse for the speakers is. Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


Sounds like the rear channel blew. There isn't a fuse for the speakers.
 
Actually, it blew all four door speakers, front and back. The only speakers working now are the center console speakers. I cannot figure out why.
Thanks
Alex
 

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