Rear Deck Subs, Need Some Help

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fethgtgh

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i just installed a 7 inch in dash dvd player and hooked up all the wiring correctly and everything, but when i turn it on only my door speakers go on. I know that i have to hook up the remote wire but my dvd player doesnt have a remote wire hook up. I was just wondering if it was even possible to hook up these speakers in the rear deck, if not i have a 12 inch alpine type r and amp that ill just hook up, i have a 2000 ls with the 8 speaker set up with the 6 disc in the glove box.
 
same thing happened to me and i don't think it can be hooked up to aftermarket deck. maybe someone will chime in that has done it but i had to replaced all my speakers with alpine x types and mb quarts and hooked them up to aftermarket amp due to this.
 
aww nuts, o well i guess ill just have to put in the bigger subs lol, and ill throw in new speakers all around once it gets warmer, a nice summer time project
 
You can hook them up you just need the right wire harness. If you order the wire harness for the "premium" radio it comes with an extra piece that connects your RCA output on the new headunit to the factory amp for the rear deck speakers.

I actually have this piece that I'm not using if someone needs it.
 
It hooks into one of your new radio's RCA jacks, the remote wire and ground then into the factory wire harness.
 
o, hmmmm, my after market indash dont have a free remote wire tho to hook up to it
 
you could use another wire, I would suggest the red wire you used for your power wire. If you use that wire the amp would be on when ever you have the ignition turned on, even if the radio is turned off.
 
rickztahone said:
same thing happened to me and i don't think it can be hooked up to aftermarket deck. maybe someone will chime in that has done it but i had to replaced all my speakers with alpine x types and mb quarts and hooked them up to aftermarket amp due to this.
Click to expand...

how did you made that grill bro
 
o, ok i have a harness that i never even installed cuz the wires on it didnt match anything from the HU the four wires are front right negativ and postive power ant, and amp ground , i dunno what this harness is for but the wire harness i got is for the lincoln ls,
 
this is the first time i have really done all of this myself so imm kinda new at it all, but im so far not to lost lol
 
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if some one could let me know if that harness could be hooked up to hook up my factory amp and subs
 
im not sure if i understand your issue correctly, if your trying to make the factory rear deck speakers work with an aftermarket head unit then you take that harness and plug it into the factory wires and plug the RCA into the preamp outputs the Remote wire to either the HU's Remote wire(which you said it didnt have) or a Power Antenna wire. If you dont have a power antenna or remote wire on your HU i would exchange it because its probably no name crap.
There should have been two power wires goes to the HU a constant 12+ and an ACC 12+. You could splice into the ACC 12+ wire as a remote wire.

Hope this helps good luck.
 
The rear 'subs' are driven off their own amp - so when you connect to them you have to use the 8-pin connector to drive to them. Most of us pull out the OE amp....

The large 20-pin connector:
Position 5 and 6 = right rear (- white and + gray)
Position 12 and 13 = left rear (- whit/violet and + gray/white)
Position 7 and 8 = right front (- white/red and + gray/red)
Position 14 and 15 = left front (- white/black and + gray/black)

Constant power = position 9 (orange.black)
Switched hot in start = position 3 (gray/orange)
Switched hot in run or ACC = position 10 (yellow/green)
Ground = position 16 (black/green)

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal
 
'line out' goes to

position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
 
Hi, Quik:

Thanks for the connector information. However, I have a question about the connector in the trunk:

Quik LS said:
On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal
Click to expand...

So, if I read that correctly, there's only a sub (mono) input at the radio, but there's LEFT and RIGHT connections in the trunk? Are you sure it's not 7 = white/red: sub - line level signal; 8 = grey/red: sub + line level signal ? Otherwise, it doesn't quite make sense ... :)
 
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