Radiator?

Sal329

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So my radiator has a very small leak, 1994 Mark. Before I replace it would an 03 Cobra/Mach 1 be over kill on a stock car? Should I just stick with a stock radiator? I plan on installing a 40k GVW trans cooler with the thermostat and an Aviator waterpump same time I do the radiator. I live in TN it gets hot in the summer (so I am told only been here since Dec 06). Like I said the car is stock and will remain mostly stock, I plan on gears, exhaust, J mod and possably heads and intake, nothing to major.
Thanks all
 
Upgrading the cooling system is always a good idea. Seeing the mods you have listed will serve your need for speed. You have a well founded reason for the cobra radiator.
 
Stock Radiator is fine. I modified a Griffin to work and he ONLY difference was it took a "little" longer to heat heat up and came down a "little" faster. I got more out of running a 160 Stat and the GM Dexcool coolant.

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Waterless coolant, baby!

500K mile service intervals. No need to add any additives in those 500K miles.

0-7PSI operating range

Boiling point of 375F

Blah blah blah

http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

I'm running it in my 6L superduty. I've had it up to 240F before while towing up big hills. Didn't miss a beat. It will outlast your motor. Period.
 
Doesn't Dexcool leave a nasty residue in your cooling system? I have flushed a few GM radiators that have had Dexcool in them, They had a sludgy type residue in them. My friends Chevy truck had Dexcool in it and the entire cooling system was clogged up. Can't say for sure it was the dexcool but the cooling system was in horible condition.
 
Doesn't Dexcool leave a nasty residue in your cooling system? I have flushed a few GM radiators that have had Dexcool in them, They had a sludgy type residue in them. My friends Chevy truck had Dexcool in it and the entire cooling system was clogged up. Can't say for sure it was the dexcool but the cooling system was in horible condition.

Never once. I have been running it since 1998.
 
Geno where did you get those coolant hoses?

I assembled them from a roll of Spectra hose covering and Spectra Ends. I had to mix and match because there different sizes. Dont use the Summit or Russel kits, there ends are very cheesy and look instantly fake. The Spectra ones are very realistic looking.
 
Doesn't Dexcool leave a nasty residue in your cooling system? I have flushed a few GM radiators that have had Dexcool in them, They had a sludgy type residue in them. My friends Chevy truck had Dexcool in it and the entire cooling system was clogged up. Can't say for sure it was the dexcool but the cooling system was in horible condition.

That can happen in iron motors. The green coolant (silicated) will plate the inside of the coolant passages, while Dex (organic acids) won't - so if the system is allowed to run low an iron motor can corrode... Shouldn't happen to an aluminum motor or any motor if you keep the system properly filled up.
 
Waterless coolant, baby!

500K mile service intervals. No need to add any additives in those 500K miles.

0-7PSI operating range

Boiling point of 375F

Blah blah blah

http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

I'm running it in my 6L superduty. I've had it up to 240F before while towing up big hills. Didn't miss a beat. It will outlast your motor. Period.

That's what I want in my Mark VIII. :rolleyes:
 
I will be running Evans in my 98 once I get it back home. I've ran it in a 90 SC before with nothing but success.

But as they say, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks", so a lot of people will stick to 50/50 because that's all they have experience with. Too bad for them.
 
I looked at the Evans site. So if I went with that would I need a new water pump and t stat?
 
Not at all. Evans sells their own pumps that work better with NPG, but your stock stuff will work just fine.

I run Evans in my Charger and it is simply superior to regular coolant in every way. The best thing about Evans is that because of its substantially higher boiling point, the engine never suffers from localized boiling, even at the hottest points on the cooling system. The coolant can get a lot hotter and still keep the engne itself cooled because it is more efficient in transferring heat. Not to mention that it doesn't need a lot of cooling system pressure to operate.

I haven't converted over my Mark VIII yet, because you have to get the engine VERY clean of old coolant and water. I was able to do this easily with the Charger because it was a new engine and could flush it out and dry it out easily. I usually use a modified leafblower to get all of the water out.
 
Whats the best way to get all the coolant out of the car and ready for the Evans waterless coolant?
 
Drain the coolant out of the radiator, angine and heater core. I used compressed air. Evans recommends no more than 2% water left in the cooling system before adding their coolant.

Just make sure you don't have any cooling system leaks. At $32 a gallon, the stuff ain't exactly cheap.
 

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