Quick timesert question

[1993_M75]

The instructions say to ensure that the valves are closed. It says to do this you either need to remove the valve cover or have someone put their thumb over the plug hole and feel for compression and then exhaust.


Don't I just need to make sure the piston is down?

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

I think they want the valves closed for a reason. you can feel the compression stroke with your thumb, after it tops out I carefully put a narrow screwdriver in the hole and took the piston down but not all the way, maybe 3/4 down. This will be the combustion stroke and both valves are closed for that of coarse. If you go all the way or the slightest bit past the exhaust valves are starting to open.


I'm pretty sure you want the valves completely closed so the shavings don't fall on them which would sandwich the shavings the the next revolution of the motor, gouging up you valve seats. The piston does have to be all the way down, just out of the way. You only run the tools in a little.

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

Alot easier to vacuum the shavings out with the valves closed too, better suction.

 

[94m5]

Ive done both ways, and it doesnt really matter. Just make sure the piston is all the way down.

Glad you got it in a timely fashion. I stood inline at the godforsaken post office for an hour and a half to mail that damned thing.


Mike

 

[1993_M75]

Ive done both ways, and it doesnt really matter. Just make sure the piston is all the way down.

Glad you got it in a timely fashion. I stood inline at the godforsaken post office for an hour and a half to mail that damned thing.

Mike

I hate the post office. I haven't been to the post office in over a year. I think I may see if I can send the kit back to you via FedEx at work and have the company bill me for it.

I got the plug hole done and changed all the other plugs. Only one of the plugs felt like it might be galling as I was removing it but it came out OK. Some of the plugs seemed like they were loose (I didn't torque them down before I removed them so I can't really say for sure) but everything went back in OK. On the one that shot out, you could tell it was loose for a while, it had burnt-on carbon in the spark plug well.

I gotta say that has got to be the most heart stopping repair I have ever done to a car. It took me about 4 hours to do that one plug hole. I got some pics of how I determined the piston was at the bottom of the cylinder, I'll have to post 'em up later.

What I'm planning to do (if nobody else has an immediate need for the kit) is to drive the car to work all week, then retorque the plugs this coming weekend to make sure all is well before I send the kit back.

The car is running good now though. I put in Denso Iridium plugs (one heat range colder than stock), Ford Motorsport Wires, and Ford Racing plug hole covers (had to replace the plastic one that got cracked when the plug shot out y'know).

I finally got to drive the car with my 18x9.5 GT500 wheels on too. 245 in the front 275 out back. Now I just gotta roll that rear fender lip and get a silencer-delete intake pipe.

 

[94m5]

Go ahead and keep it for as long as you need. I ended up replacing the "Powered by Ford" Aluminum covers on my 98 because the plug shot out and slammed the coil into the bottom of it, and cracked it in half.


Like I said, keep it, I don't have any use for it at the moment, and your better off not paying shipping twice on it.


Mike

 

[1993_M75]

Go ahead and keep it for as long as you need. I ended up replacing the "Powered by Ford" Aluminum covers on my 98 because the plug shot out and slammed the coil into the bottom of it, and cracked it in half.

DAAAAYYUUMMMNN I wouldn't have thought that was possible.

Like I said, keep it, I don't have any use for it at the moment, and your better off not paying shipping twice on it.
Mike

Cool beans