Quick cooling question about flow blah blah..

[FASTLLS]

I am going to use braided line and the price difference between -12 and -16 AN is substantial.. So, the OEM converts to -20 so would it be ok to run -12? Or should I stick with the -16?

The biggest intake filler that I can get is -16 so I'm not going to run -20 all the way because the smallest point is going to resist flow and it's mighty expensive..

 

[cammerfe]

SS Braid

It's merely my opinion, but you wouldn't want to go significantly smaller than factory size unless you are doing a complete re-engineering job. Also, don't do it unless you are going to a complete set of 37 degree fittings as well. and finally, rubber-cored SS braid is only good for five years or so. Even though it's harder to find, go with a Teflon core if you are going to do it at all. JMO

KS

 

[Right on the Mark]

-12 is right size for heater hoses ,to small for upper and lower rad. The right size for upper and lower rad hose is -20 but that stuff is crazy price. I run -16 upper and lower rad hose on my RACE car and it works good. I use the -12 for my vacuum pump. Let me tell you that stuff adds up real fast!!

 

[FASTLLS]

I am running all new lines because of the SC.. The only reason I ask is that -12 is like 5 cheaper than -16.. Plus the fittings are cheaper.. Just trying to weigh costs if there are no consequences..

 

[FASTLLS]

Let me tell you that stuff adds up real fast!!

Heard that.. Using universal rad hose would be cheaper, but it would be kinda hard to plumb in the DCCV using the universal stuff.. Plus, braided just looks good.. I'll stick with the -16 I guess then

 

[FASTLLS]

That's what I'm using.. And I need a 45* right off of that to clear the crossover tube

 

[Right on the Mark]

Also on all my new hoses I went with the cloth covering. All my old hoses are the SS covering. The cloth is easier to cut and assemble and cheaper. I also have the braided hose install kit. Makes putting them together much nicer.

 

[FASTLLS]

^
Were did you get it from? Both the cloth line and install kit

 

[Right on the Mark]

That's what I'm using.. And I need a 45* right off of that to clear the crossover tube

Oh the end of the world putting a Chevy part on a Ford. LOL I see you taking out another student loan to pay for the -20 stuff!!! Just jokin on the Chevy stuff because I just put one in my Mustang.

 

[Right on the Mark]

^
Were did you get it from? Both the cloth line and install kit

My local speed shop. Got the jobber price there. I went all black hoses this time.

 

[FASTLLS]

Oh the end of the world putting a Chevy part on a Ford. LOL I see you taking out another student loan to pay for the -20 stuff!!!

Lol.. That's the JEGs manifold filler.. They only go as big as -16.. So its nonsense to run -20 when its going to hit the -16..

 

[Right on the Mark]

Just change the -20 to -16 in my post. You get the jest.

 

[FASTLLS]

Gottcha..

I bought something like this but I'm going to have to send it back because it comes straight off and that hits the block.. I need it to come off at a 45* then I need to go up 45*.. It's kinda tight

 

[Right on the Mark]

Also it really should not matter if that only comes -16 if you want it -20 you make it -20. I know you already looked up ID of all these hoses and see that actual hose ID of -16 is 7/8 ,nomical is 1.00. All these AN hoses and fitting are really going to add to your budget blower build.

 

[Right on the Mark]

I'll see if I can find my hose bills to post some prices.

 

[FASTLLS]

The stock hose is 1 1/4 or 1 1/2.. I can't really remember at the moment..

I know they'll add, but it just makes it easier to hook up.. I only need like 4 ft of the -16 and the DCCV hose is like -10 or -8.. so that isn't a big deal.. Probably like 100 just in hoses..

 

[FASTLLS]

I'll see if I can find my hose bills to post some prices.

Thanks..

 

[Right on the Mark]

Each hose is going to be around 80 to 100 in -16. You can score used hoses with ends off ebay and save tons of cash. I have done that.

 

[Quik LS]

looking at your thermostat housing (replacing the existing cooling tree) just make sure the overflow teet is higher than the level in the degas tank - or your flow will be reversed.

 

[FASTLLS]

Thanks Quik.. I will be adding this to the top of the first unit..

 

[FASTLLS]

Each hose is going to be around 80 to 100 in -16. You can score used hoses with ends off ebay and save tons of cash. I have done that.

Really? I was looking at Rusell/Earls and they are clearly the more expensive choice but you do pay more for better quality.. Jegs/Summint/Aero are cheaper alternatives, but I will defiantly use Rusell/Earls fittings.. Through the grape vine, I heard Jegs fittings don't seal well..

 

[Right on the Mark]

Each -16 hose end is roughtly 30-35 dollars and hose is 80 for 6 feet. You always have to buy longer because if to short you wasted your money.

 

[FASTLLS]

True.. My upper looks to be about 1' and a half.. The lower, around 3 feet.. Both have a break in the middle to plumb the DCCV in..

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

So its nonsense to run -20 when its going to hit the -16..

It is not that simple, and the reduction to a -16 could actually be more of a reason to run the lines in the larger -20. It is a closed loop, and flow is the product of all of the restrictions combined...so more restriction at a -16 junction and less across the larger -20 lines equals out better than causing additional restriction throughout with -16.

 

[FASTLLS]

I understand.. I would have 80 in fittings just to adapt it down for the DCCVs though.. So that's why I don't really want to go that big.. Plus the cost is over 14 a foot..

If at all possible, I want to keep it budget friendly..