Pulling while braking

[Dave 88 LSC]

I had the driver side strut rod bushing changed yesterday, one by the ball joint cause it was torn. At the same time they changed the ball joint itself. They removed the lover control arm to do this.

Now every time I apply brakes it jerks to the left really hard. No strange noises. AS soon as I let go of the brakes it goes back to normal.
Calipers where not removed. Nothing is moving and everything is nice and tight.

I even did alignment in the morning. Steering is nice and tight now thanks to new parts, but this pull is driving me nuts.

Can there be air trapped in the right side caliper, causing less pressure?
Maybe from the time I changed the ABS unit?
Car was fine yesterday before new parts went in.

Before, bushing was so bad, the wheel would jerk back an inch when braking, but even then the car would not pull to that side.

What the hell happened???

 

[American Air-1]

My bet is the lower control arm. Did somebody use heat to get the bolt out?

 

[Dave 88 LSC]

My bet is the lower control arm. Did somebody use heat to get the bolt out?

Not at all. All the bolts came out just fine. They had to bang out the old ball joint and it came out easy, and pressed in the new ball joint which pressed in easy as well. Other than that I cannt not imagine anything else.

 

[slowmkviii]

Bad ball joint you still have 3 old one's.
Break problem bad slides, bad caliper or air in line.
Bad tie rod ends
Forgot grease new ball joint if its no sealed

 

[Dave 88 LSC]

Rest of all A arms and ball joints are less than half a year old.
No play it tie rods.
What's amazing is that everything was fine when the ripped strut rod bushing. I only changed that and ball joint and that's when this started happening.
Alignemt didn't help at all. Brakes were perfect before this repair.

Thanks for help.

 

[chris2523]

I had the driver side strut rod bushing changed yesterday, one by the ball joint cause it was torn. At the same time they changed the ball joint itself. They removed the lover control arm to do this.

if this is what they changed, i would start there. moog strut rod to k member bushings are known to be bad pieces.
i had my brother roll the car back and forth and i watched the bushing squish around. my car pulls to the right under braking as well.

 

[Marcus]

Don't waste your time trying to track down a brake problem. The brakes are fine. You've got a suspension issue, 99% chance it's a ball joint.

 

[Dave 88 LSC]

Replaced the whole control arm with a moog new one and all is back to normal.
Also replaced 1 year old moog right aide strut rod bushings due to some play.
Aligned and car the car is better than ever

 

[unity]

Good. I was going to suggest to always get the whole lower arm. For $60 its a deal, especially when compared to buying just the ball joint and having it pressed. Saves on parts and labor! Oh, its the t-bird arm you want that is $60, Mark VIII one is more. But they are identical as many, many members can attest to.

If the problem was still there I would have suggest to also look at the hubs. The bearing can be destroyed if they use impact tools to install the lugs and thus over-torque them. I never, ever recommend air tools on lugs. Always torque by hand to spec!

 

[Dave 88 LSC]

Yep. I used the T bird arm and all is well.

Thank you all!
A special thanks to Eddie who convinced me it's the control arm and said to get a T bird arm.