Pulleys are on!! (tech article)

Marine

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Well I finally installed my Steeda underdrive pulleys. It was easier than I thought it would have been. The hardest part was keeping the crankshaft from turning. The power gain is very noticeable. I have to say, dollar for dollar, it is probably the best way to add HP. For those who are interested in how I did it, read on.


1. Disconnect the battery, take the belt off the alt pulley and disconnect the wires going to the alternator. Because of the coolant crossover tube, you must remove your alternator. (or, if your weird, leave the alternator on and disconnect your crossover tube.) Using Marine ingenuity, Secure the alternator from spinning, and remove the large nut on the front of the pulley. At this point, my pulley literally fell off of the shaft, but you might need to use a puller. (which I bought beforehand). Install the new pulley on the shaft, and securing the shaft, tighten the nut. Next, there are 4 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley on, I grabbed the back of the pulley and used a socket to get these off, easy as pie. Now that it's off, reinstall the alternator and secure it. If you put the new water pump pulley on before the alternator, you will have problems tightening the alternator down. Now that the alternator is on, and tight, plug it back in. NOW put on the new water pump pulley. Tighten it as best you can, later when the belt is on you can use it's tension to hold the pulley tight enough to torque these down. It was about this time that I busted my right ring finger middle knuckle awfully bad. I should go get stitches, but that takes time away from my car. Now, jack up one side of the car, and put a jackstand under it. Remove the inspection pan cover from directly behind the oil pan. It has 2 8mm bolts. Now stick something between the flywheel (flexplate for those who believe a flywheel is for standard transmissions) and the transmission housing. Or, if you have an impact wrench (which I dont, and didnt really need) loosen the 18mm bolt on the front of the crankshaft pulley. Unplug the fan, and loosen the 2 8mm bolts holding the fan housing on the radiator. Pull the fan housing out of the car. You do not have to remove the drivers side radiator hose. Use some bearing grease on the hose and the fan will slide out. Using the harmonic balancer puller that you will need before hand (I picked mine up a day earlier)remove the old, fat, heavy, stock pulley. Using the large washer that was on the 18mm bolt you pulled out, use the long bolt supplied with the new pulleys and tighten it down. This draws the new pulley onto the crankshaft. ****MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN THE KEYWAY**** DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE WAY. This bolt is used only to pull the new pulley onto the crank. Once the bolt bottoms out, remove it, use the same washer on the new bolt (the shorter one) and torque it down to the specified amount. I used the tried and trued method of 2 grunts and a fart. It's not as precise, but it works miracles. Now that all the pulleys are back on, reinstall the fan, plug it back in. Replace the belt onto all the pulleys. Notice I didnt mention anywhere that you need a new belt. You dont. Once the belt is back on properly, remove whatever you used to secure the engine from turning, and lower the car. Check everything over and reattach the battery.

It took me 45 minutes, I used hand tools, and I did it by myself. The only thing I needed was the harmonic balancer puller. Pulling the fan out was the only way to get the old pulley off and the new one on. I would say this was slightly harder than a brake job, but way easier than a rear main seal. Next up is my motor mounts, but I have 2 weeks before I leave for Iraq, so I doubt I'll get to it. :L
 
Pulleys...

How much did these pulleys cost you? Which unit are you going with?
 
Thanks for the helpful guide. You didn't mention what looks like an air or vaccum booster mounted in front of the crank pulley. Perhaps these are not on all models. I have a 98. Can the mounting bolts for this be taken out and it pushed aside to access the pulley without disconnecting the lines?
 
I paid $200.00. I'm 3rd Radio Battalion.

I didnt have anything in front of the pulley except the fan. Maybe it's a 2nd gen thing. I dont see any reason why you cant move this device aside, maybe use some wire to hold it to the side.
 
Dick Hughes said:
You didn't mention what looks like an air or vaccum booster mounted in front of the crank pulley. Perhaps these are not on all models. I have a 98. Can the mounting bolts for this be taken out and it pushed aside to access the pulley without disconnecting the lines?
That is only on 97's and 98's. You need to remove this to get the crank pulley off. I got the mounting bracket loose no problem, but the thermactor itself would not break loose from the line so I had to cut the line. Lots of people remove this item, lines and all, when they do an underdrive pulley mod. From what I understand it only runs when you first start the engine. But I chose to keep it on just in case. The new pulley stuck out further than the stock one so I left the mounting bracket off since it was impossible to put it back on. The thermactor pump is held solidly in place by the air lines. I have heard of some people mounting this in another location but I didn't want to go through that much trouble.
 
No its on the 96-97 and 98's. Its the thermactor pump which is OBDII specific.
You should only do the crank balancer/pulley, all three is too much for the alternator, you will see at night at idle what I am talking about. It will also turn the water pump slower in turn running hotter so all gains will be traded.
 
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ONEBADMK8 said:
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You should only do the crank balancer/pulley, all three is too much for the alternator, you will se at night at idel what I am talking about. It will also turn the water pump slower in turn running hotter so all gains will be traded.

For a stock alternator and water pump, that may be true. What about with a H.O. alternator and an electric water pump? The alternator I have is made to have higher than stock output at idle.

I plan to put on the crank pulley and electric water pump and monitor charging and cooling changes from there. I'm not concerned with the electric water pump's capabilities. If the alternator holds adequate charging levels at idle, I may go for an underdrive pulley on it as well.
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
You should only do the crank balancer/pulley, all three is too much for the alternator, you will see at night at idle what I am talking about. It will also turn the water pump slower in turn running hotter so all gains will be traded.
If this is done, a new belt is needed, correct?
 

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