PSA: Concerning OE suspension parts and Movotech

DieselDan

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Evening fellas,
Felt like sharing my experience for the evening with all of you. I have been chasing a small front suspension gremlin for a little while now and have replaced most of the front suspension. The upper control arms, sway bar links, tie rod ends, and RH Lower control arm are all Moog/TRW. The lower control arms were installed on my car by the previous owner, by Jamie. They are OE brand. Anyway, the LH lower BJ has had a torn boot for maybe 3 years now, but I kept it lubed via the grease fitting and it didn't give me much trouble. Well, I decided that I wanted to replace the strut rod bushings, thinking that was the source of the rocking in the steering wheel I was getting on braking. I ordered a Moog ball joint, and a pair of Movotech strut rod bushings. The ball joint was great, I have used them in my past 2 Marks. The strut rod bushings however not so much. First thing I noticed was that they were red, no biggie, just odd. I took them out of the bag they were in, and the bag was covered inside with red powder and the bushings themselves looked almost melted a little bit. If you squeezed them, more of the hard exterior (plastic?) would flake off... Anyway, I had my car completely disassembled from last night in anticipation of the parts arriving today. I went outside and hung the control arm on the car and got my BJ press out to begin putting it in. Now keep in mind, this is an OE arm with a Moog BJ. The ball joint can be completely seated by hand, no good. It seems that the hole for the BJ is oversized and will not accept a aftermarket joint, causing my LCA useless. And, on that note, when I slid the sleeve into the new strut rod bushing, a chunk of the red plastic/rubber came out with it and the stretching of the bushing exposed a whole bunch of cracks. I will post pictures up later. Anyway, my time is limited as I have been working all the OT I can get at work, and that leaves me with one day off a week. My solution to this problem, since I need to get it fixed before work on Saturday is go to the upulland pay and get a (hopefully) stock arm, and press my Moog joint into it and roll with that. I wasn't trying to cheap out on the strut rod bushings, or not buying a whole control arm, but with a kid a month away, and my solo income, things have been pretty tight... I would have spent more money though, knowing what a POS these bushings were going to be.
 
Thanks for the heads up mang. Was hoping at some point we would find an aftermarket SRB that was as good as or better then OEM. Damn.

And the OE arm.... what a POS.
 
OE Brand, Mavotech, Cardone to name a few are crap. I'm sure we could make a good list of good/bad manufacturers...
 
Thats a good heads up. I really hate crappy products. Now I know to stay away from those.Thanks
 
So, I have a JY control arm out in the car. We are at the doctor's ATM so I can't get a pic, but it is a newer TRW arm with a TRW non greasable BJ. I was going to put my Moog BJ in it, but the boot and the joint don't seem very old. I'll post up pics in a few, just looking for opinions...
 
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So, I have a JY control arm out in the car. We are at the doctor's ATM so I can't get a pic, but it is a newer TRW arm with a TRW non greasable BJ. I was going to put my Moog BJ in it, but the boot and the joint don't seem very old. I'll post up pics in a few, just looking for opinions...

Don't do it, like laser posted if its tight just install it.

The problem with your Moog ball joint not pressing into the arm could be a bad Moog ball joint, Diameter too small.

FWIW
I just replaced my Stabilizer Bar Link"s with Moog links and one was assembled backwards.
The long stud was for the sway bar and the short stud was for the arm "backwards"

:mad:
I don't think Moog is what it used to be.

I would take a Mic or a dial caliper and measure the Diameter of the ball joint and compare it to a stock one before I would think of installing it in that TRW arm.
If it's undersize, return it and raise hell.

Good luck with the baby, kids are awesome.
 
Well...

I was going to use the arm as it was, however I realized that when I smacked the ball joint with the hammer with the nut on it, I hurt the top thread a little bit. I could have fixed the threads, but that meant extra driving for a tool, so I just pressed the new Moog joint in. It fit tight as it should have. I have never used the press with hand tools, I have always used a 1/2" impact wrench. Anyway, I have found that while turning the press tighter, smacking the bottom of one of the spacers with a hammer with pressure on it would move it a few thousands of an inch each time.

8718dd3e.jpg


Above is a pic of the joints side by side. The Moog has always been a monster, not sure why. And, these strut rod bushings are absolute garbage... the more I try to massage them to go on the sleeve, the more they are coming apart, these are going to be replaced before the end of the month. And on that note, I see Moog has come up with a different designed strut rod bushing...

Old:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K8680

New:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K8659

Both are still for sale though...
 
And on that note, I see Moog has come up with a different designed strut rod bushing...

Old:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K8680

New:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K8659

Both are still for sale though...

nope. one is strut rod to k member, K8659. the other is strut rod to lower control arm, K8680. opposite ends of the strut rod. i have both on my car.
the strut rod to k member seem to have too long of sleeves. not allowing proper torque on the rubber bushings. i need to shorten my sleeves.
 
Ah, yes. You are correct my fault. I just saw moog in the Rock auto section I was in twice and was thinking it was the same part... I saw the second one said "improved design" and that made me think it was the same part...
 

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