Problematic Ls :(

[Woods44]

Alright, been scrolling these threads for days. I've Fixed problem after problem only for another one to pop up and knock me right back on my ass.

I'm going to trace back my journey as best I can. I bought an 04' Ls 3.9l. Condition, when purchased, was poorly running - ETC failsafe mode. Previous owner did a hack job CAT delete, exhaust leaks everywhere, no o2 sensors up stream or downstream. ECM didn't know what to think of all that - was throwing whatever code it could think of at random. So, that was the first order of business. Re-welded the system, drilled and welded bungs for the o2 sensors, did the good ole spark plug anti-fouler trick for the downstream sensors. Okay, now we're getting somewhere - engine runs a smidge better - but more importantly, my codes had been limited to what I had concluded to be majorily ghost codes due to RFI from COPs. Next order of business, all 8 COPs and plugs replaced. Now that v8 is purring, and ETC failsafe is no more. Took it off jack stands, put it in drive, took her around the block - and I may have hit ~35mph before entering ETC failsafe mode again. I was in the failsafe mode that still enabled me to max out I want to say around 3-4000 RPMs, as compared to limping as it was previously. Anyways, ABS light on as well. I presume I entered failsafe mode this time due to whatever the cause is for the ABS light. I should also note that to this point I am still clear of any engine codes. SO, that catches me back up to current.

What's giving me a bad feeling, is that after all of this - I'm only just now noticing some oddball electrical problems. After actually sitting behind the wheel for a while rather than having my head inside the engine bay - I've noticed my overhead cab lights are super finicky when trying to toggle on/off, various buttons controlling the stereo head unit act funky, and on one occasion I couldn't toggle the parking brake on/off nor could I toggle the traction control. In conclusion, I'd just like some more opinions on what my next step should be in determining the cause of this failsafe mode, and maybe the root of some of these electrical problems. Sorry for the essay

 

[joegr]

You have to fix the ABS issue to resolve that failsafe mode.
Yes, the map light switches can be a pain. Try some deox spray on the contacts.
The traction control and parking brake can be affected by the ABS issue as well.
The plastic in the parking brake switch may be broken.

 

[Woods44]

You have to fix the ABS issue to resolve that failsafe mode.
Yes, the map light switches can be a pain. Try some deox spray on the contacts.
The traction control and parking brake can be affected by the ABS issue as well.
The plastic in the parking brake switch may be broken.

Thanks, joegr, I'll start diving into ABS then. I've never had any dealings with anything in relation to ABS. Not much knowledge on the matter. To your knowledge - will FOREScan pick up those ABS codes? Just trying to get a good starting point.

 

[joegr]

Yes, Forscan should pull the ABS codes

 

[Woods44]

Alright, I've got a couple of days before my OBD-II adapter comes in for my laptop. Wasn't quite prepared to be pulling ABS codes. In the meantime just for the hell of it, I was testing for continuity on all 4 wheel speed sensors. Both rears check out. On the other hand, however, I have no continuity at all on either front sensor. I will undoubtedly be replacing those. But what is the likelihood of both front sensors going bad without some sort of common electrical problem? I won't conclude anything until I am able to pull the codes that I currently have. But, is there any sort of preliminary testing I can do on any other components to see if I have some fault anywhere else?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Yes, the map light switches can be a pain. Try some deox spray on the contacts.

Yup... works great on any electrical contacts. Especially on the volume knob on the radio... And the overhead console lights.

 

[Woods44]

Especially on the volume knob on the radio...

Sweet. The volume knob in particular was the real problem there. Any input from the volume knob results in my ears getting blown off. But yes, I'll have to try that on a couple of things. I appreciate the recommendation guys.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

If the Deox-it doesn't work on the volume knob... give it a right cross or upper cut.

 

[joegr]

Note that Deox G5 is the weakest of the sprays. Unless you know that the contacts are gold, it's not the best one to use. Deox D5 is the best in general, Deox F5 might be best for the volume control.

 

[Woods44]

If the Deox-it doesn't work on the volume knob... give it a right cross or upper cut.

Note that Deox G5 is the weakest of the sprays. Unless you know that the contacts are gold, it's not the best one to use. Deox D5 is the best in general, Deox F5 might be best for the volume control.

Noted. I'll give it a nice little jab if it decides to bust my ear drums again after the F5 spray.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

The other option is the steering wheel controls.