Problem with my oil light

Mattmatt

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Have a 2004 Lincoln LS 6 cylinder my Oil light stays on even though my dipstick says I have maximum oil. Could the light be coming on because I have too much oil?
 
Have a 2004 Lincoln LS 6 cylinder my Oil light stays on even though my dipstick says I have maximum oil. Could the light be coming on because I have too much oil?
The oil light has nothing to do with oil quantity, that's what the dipstick is for. The oil light is indicating low to no oil pressure. It could be minor (bad oil pressure switch or wiring), or it could be major (oil pressure really is low). If you have driven with the light on for a while, then you either new a new switch or a new engine. (Keeping the engine running with low/no oil pressure is a major mistake.)
 
The oil light has nothing to do with oil quantity, that's what the dipstick is for. The oil light is indicating low to no oil pressure. It could be minor (bad oil pressure switch or wiring), or it could be major (oil pressure really is low). If you have driven with the light on for a while, then you either new a new switch or a new engine. (Keeping the engine running with low/no oil pressure is a major mistake.)
The light goes off when I start to go or when I push on the accelerator pedal
 
When was your last oil change? You may just need a new oil filter and new oil. What color is the oil on the dipstick?
 
The light goes off when I start to go or when I push on the accelerator pedal
The fact that it goes away when you accelerate is natural, considering that oil flow increases with RPM to keep the engine lubricated. But, that means that it might not be getting enough oil pressure at idle, which could be your oil pump starting to go bye bye bye. Or you could get lucky and away with faulty pressure sensor/wiring.
 
Find the location of the oil pressure switch (forget where it's at on the V6) and pull the swich and hook up a mechanical gauge/tester to the port.

Many threads on here about the switch/sensor going bad on the V6... but I would check the pressure before assuming it's the switch.

One of the threads I found.


A Google search will show more.
 
I just change filter and oil when I did my chains and I got the very same issue . Really hate to think of it but when I was takin g the front cover off I thing a little grim made it's way in to the pan ....I hope it didn't get sucked up in the pump and that be my issue.
 
I just change filter and oil when I did my chains and I got the very same issue . Really hate to think of it but when I was takin g the front cover off I thing a little grim made it's way in to the pan ....I hope it didn't get sucked up in the pump and that be my issue.
Surely the oil filter would've caught it....unless it was a Fram branded one
 
Surely the oil filter would've caught it....unless it was a Fram branded one
Well, the pump is before the oil filter, not after. That said, the pump should be tough enough to handle a little grime.
Unfortunately, the V6 seems to have issues with bearing wear, leading to low oil pressure and eventual failure.
 
Cheap (think poor quality) oil can be a problem too. It breaks down with heat and turns to carbon/sludge... which can clog the oil pickup.

Overheating of the engine can do the same thing.

It all makes a good case for using synthetic oil.
 
I use synthetic in all my lawn and garden equipment. I have one of the original Ryobi 4 stroke weed trimmers from 1998. 23 years old... and other than the occaisional carb adjustment. it runs like new.

Same with my 2006 Toro self propelled push mower... and 1978 Gravely rider with newer Onan 20hp twin.

Only thing I still run conventional oil in is my 1995 F-150.
 

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