Probably going to put in a new 5spd trans

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jokken

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long time no post.

I think it is about time to replace my trans.

I checked teamfords website and found prices and emailed Bill.

I am looking for info on this trans though.
I searched the forum but didn't come up with much. If I am missing a good thread please let me know.

From what I know it is a getrag M5221. Can't find much info on the web about it either. Does anyone have info. From what I understand it is better to replace the whole trans then to try to find parts.
 
any good transshop can rebuild it like new - and then address one off upgrades.

the getrag 221 - was only used in the S-Type and the Lincoln LS....
 
well now I have no choice I have to get trans work done.

I brought the car to a local mod shop to have the tint taken off and they burnt out the clutch. I DROVE the car to the shop and I had to get it TOWED home. my problem before was the syncros but the car drove fine, the trans guy said I could drive it like that forever if I was careful, now i can't even get it into gear. the clutch pedal stays on the floor when you push it down, it will slowly spring back up. when I tried to put it in 1st it just grinds. they claim they didn't drive the car and it was just that way when they tried to move it to the back of the building. I checked the mileage before I dropped it off. (i didn't trust these guys totally) it has 4 more miles on it now then when I dropped it off..... they took it for a joy ride.... I just hope they didn't do other damage driving like arses.....

I should have know, went with my gut feeling, don't trust these kids, I just didn't feel like taking the stupid tint off the heat strips on the back window.....

what I did find though is, I could put the car in gear when it is off. start the car and slowly apply the gas, it would buck a little but I could get it going. then all I had to do is match the rpms and I could shift without a clutch...cool
 
Just imagining what could have been.

5 or 6 speed manual in the V8... :mad:
 
Are you sure the master cylinder is topped up. Sound like it might be low. If so you'll need to fill and bleed.
 
really the master cylinder? I thought that is for the brakes. I assume it is used as clutch fluid too? please explain. I will check this out, thanks!
 
pragmatic said:
Are you sure the master cylinder is topped up. Sound like it might be low. If so you'll need to fill and bleed.
Click to expand...


If the LS has an hydraulic clutch ( I'm a mark guy so wouldn't know) it uses dot 3 brake fluid. But the master cylinder has nothing to do with the transmission.
 
BlntdEyez said:
If the LS has an hydraulic clutch ( I'm a mark guy so wouldn't know) it uses dot 3 brake fluid. But the master cylinder has nothing to do with the transmission.
Click to expand...
I don't know if the LS has a hydraulic clutch, either, but if it does, its master cylinder could certainly have something to do with the clutch pedal not coming off the floor.

The master cylinder for the brakes, however, would not have anything to do with the clutch or transmission.
 
Quick what is this part your talking about? I need to get my tranny worked on just shopping around to see what and where.... I need to address it soon...
 
SoonerLS said:
I don't know if the LS has a hydraulic clutch, either, but if it does, its master cylinder could certainly have something to do with the clutch pedal not coming off the floor.

The master cylinder for the brakes, however, would not have anything to do with the clutch or transmission.
Click to expand...

Yes it has a hydraulic clutch and its separate from the brakes but uses the same reservoir there is a line going from the brake reservoir to the clutch master (located on the clutch pedal). Make sure the reservoir is full of DOT 3 (or DOT 4) fluid. If it needs bleeding the bleeder screw is behind a cover on the right (judging from the drawing in the shop manual) side of the bell housing near the transmission side of the bell housing. The slave is a concentric ring direct acting slave cylinder.

From my experience bleeding clutches with the bleeder nipple down low, bleed into a jar of fluid or use a mity vac or similar vacuum tool; keep the fluid topped up; after bleeding if the clutch does not feel right hold it down for 15 seconds (to allow air to rise to the master cylinder) then release. Do this 3 or 4 times.

Good luck.
 
pragmatic said:
Yes it has a hydraulic clutch and its separate from the brakes but uses the same reservoir there is a line going from the brake reservoir to the clutch master (located on the clutch pedal).
Click to expand...
Well, you learn something new every day. Can't say I've ever seen this before (then again, since I've never looked under the hood of a manual-trannied LS, I still can't say that I've actually seen it :D ).
 
yep - it's in the manual...

CLUTCH FLUID (IF EQUIPPED)
The clutch master cylinder and brake master cylinder are part of the same system; both are refillable through the brake master cylinder with brake fluid. For more information on brake fluid maintenance, refer to Brake fluid in this chapter.
 
I got the trans, slave cylinder and clutch coming in to the local dealer. any other things I should replace when this thing is apart? ie throwout bearing pilot bearing/bushing


any help would be appreciated.
 
Since you're doing everything else, you'll definitely want to do the t/o bearing. Though I've never worked on one, I've seen a hydraulic-clutched tranny removed from the vehicle, and it looks to me like the t/o bearing is pretty well integrated with the slave cylinder, so that may be a given.

I wouldn't think you'd need to do anything with the pilot bushing (if the LS even has one), and it sounds like you're replacing everything else--I presume you're including the pressure plate in the clutch; if not, I would definitely include it. The flywheel is the only other replaceable part in that subsystem; now would be the time to replace it, but it's probably OK unless this is your first stick...
 
soonerls thanks for the info. yes I am replacing the pressure plate also, sorry should have metioned that to in my last post. and you are right, Bill Jenkins also tells me the t/o bearing is part of the slave cylinder, so I got that. also I think the flywheel will be ok but I will have it checked out and replace it if there is even a slight reason. thanks again
 
I take it that bleeding didn't help. Any idea on the cause of the failure. I'm approaching 99,000 miles and so far so good, but would like to know if its something I should be concerned with.
 
actually i didn't do a bleed so I don't know if that would fix the problem. the master cylinder was full though. the problem was the arseholes at the shop it was at. the took it out for a joy ride, still working on making them pay for what they did and I dont mean pay money. I needed trans work done anyway so while I am having the clutch problem fixed I am just replacing everything.
 
Replace your rear main crankshaft seal. Might be a 20 dollar part. But its worth replacement to save a huge headache down the road if/when it starts leaking.
 
really, rear main crankshaft seal, thanks for the suggestion.

do they go bad often? even on the 6cyl?

what is involved in changing the rear main crankshaft seal? does anyone have the steps of what is involved and the labor times?

do you have to drop the oil pan?
 
got the LS back from the shop this morning. (82K and it still has the new car smell) anyway it drives nice, the clutch pedal and stick hasn't felt this clean in years. the problem with the clutch was 1/3 of it had been blown off the plate, is was ripped off and all splintered. It really bothers me to think about how those arses were driving when they did this. i'll try to post pictures of the clutch tomorrow. the trans had obvious excessive wear on the syncros. Guess I downshift (engine brake) too often or "too often incorrectly"

got to work on that

still, if this trans is going to last another 82K I shouldn’t have this problem again.

all in all I replaced, the trans, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder.
Cost me $2730. Getting $1500 back from the extended warranty company and hopefully a few hundred from the place that blew the clutch out.
 
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