premium or regular gas?

i think someone who only runs their car on 87 octane should honestly come forward and detail their historical service needs
bc you know those ppl are out there..
 
true but make no mistake my friends my LS is probably one of the best condition and lowest mileage LS on this site not my daily driver so it sits in the garage most the time with only about 44000 miles even underneath the car looks new muhahah

one of mine only has 37,000 miles.. muhahah to you sir.. also not a DD and spends most its time in the garage not getting sun faded and such. and stored winters..
 
I just wanted to see how clean his LS is if it's one of the "best condition" cars on the site

Doesn't matter, their COPS are going to fail like the rest of them. Don't care how good your car looks, it has to function first. Boom boom clap
 
i think someone who only runs their car on 87 octane should honestly come forward and detail their historical service needs
bc you know those ppl are out there..

Purchased car with 37,000 miles in 2003 - a 2000 V6 with manual transmission
Ran on premium until I hit 100,000 miles, then regular. Now has 150,000 miles. MPG has never been below 22 or above 27 (though once through careful driving I did go 500 miles on a tankful, 17.5 gallons). The switch to regular has not shown a drop in fuel economy.

Maintenance oil and filter every 5,000 miles, air filter every other year, transmission fluid every 75,000 miles (Ford recommends 60,000 but I missed that the first time and its due now), flush brake fluid every 5 years.

Only item you could try and nail me for (though I don't buy gasoline as its cause) is check engine light has been cycling on and off since operating with a bad miss fire (light flashing and needed to rev to 3000 rpm and feather the clutch out to drive the car home at 15 mph ~3 miles). Valve cover gasket was leaking taking out the coils. Code at that time was miss fire, plus a bunch of others I don't recall. Since then the code has been catalyst inefficiency. If I do a lot of local driving the light goes out by itself, if I do a lot of highway driving it comes back on. Been doing it for 40,000 miles. Luckily the light has always turned itself off before I've needed my yearly inspection. This year I replaced front O2 sensors to see if that would help, but its still cycling on/off. I don't feel like replacing the cats (I hate exhaust work), but will if the code remains on and I can't get a sticker.

Service history (don't keep written records, just receipts so mileages are approx)

40,000 Dealer tightened clamp on heater hose to fix coolant leak (under warranty
45,000 New rear window regulator
75,000 New brake pad all four wheels, new plugs, recharged AC, new sway bar bushings
105,000 New Brakes and rotors
110,000 New coils, plugs, replaced valve cover gasket
120,000 New front wheel bearing
125,000 Installed electric fan recharged AC
127,000 New Starter
130,000 New alternator, new front sway bar bushings
132,000 New mufflers
133,000 New power steering line (old one rusted through)
135,000 Replaced front wheel bearing, new brakes and rotors
140,000 Car hit hard while parked - replaced front bumper, lights, left tie rod end,left knuckle, left upper A-arm, left wheel bearing, left sway bar drop link, four new brake pads, front rotors.
145,000 Window regulator replaced
148,000 Two front O2 sensors replaced

All work done by me (other than first coolant leak)

Current needs:
Right side front suspension makes some noise over small bumps, nothing too bad need to check ball joint, a-arms and tie rods from play.
Drive shaft center bearing is making noise and needs o be replaced.
Drivers heated seat stopped working, need to remove cover and find line break.

Original battery, all original hoses (other than replaced power steering line), original clutch,
 
i just wanted to see how clean his ls is if it's one of the "best condition" cars on the site

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100% stock only after market is the oil and air filter

all i need is 8 spoke 17" wheels

newer front grill and paint the chrome trims

and it will still be all OEM

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one of mine only has 37,000 miles.. muhahah to you sir.. also not a DD and spends most its time in the garage not getting sun faded and such. and stored winters..

rebuild engine? or whole cars mileage?
 
Clean car, but a shame it's not getting the proper drink of gasoline it deserves.
 
You know, the OM calls for 5W-20 oil. I'll bet the engine will run just fine on straight 30 weight as it's much cheaper!

Besides, what do the engineers know anyway?
 
You know, the OM calls for 5W-20 oil. I'll bet the engine will run just fine on straight 30 weight as it's much cheaper!

Besides, what do the engineers know anyway?

I actually do run 5W-30. That's what the dealer has used, and most likely will today when I go in for an oil change. It's on them if something bad happens, so I don't worry about it too much.
 
I actually do run 5W-30. That's what the dealer has used, and most likely will today when I go in for an oil change. It's on them if something bad happens, so I don't worry about it too much.

Gen I can use 5w-20 or 5w-30.
Gen II is supposed to only be 5w-20.
 
no way I've been using 5w 30 too

whats the difference?

Gen II has variable valve timing that is controlled hydraulically using engine oil. One assumes that the higher pressure from the thicker oil might damage the seals.

Ford and Honda did a lot of tests on the new spec 5w-20 oil and determined that their engines would have less wear using it, so they switched just about everything to it.
 
Gen II has variable valve timing that is controlled hydraulically using engine oil. One assumes that the higher pressure from the thicker oil might damage the seals.

Ford and Honda did a lot of tests on the new spec 5w-20 oil and determined that their engines would have less wear using it, so they switched just about everything to it.

2012 hondas some require 0w-20 and I am sure some other manufactures have the same.

And llking,

would you be okay with the next plane you get on using less than required fuel? just because the airline had the money to buy a plane but wants to save 10% on fuel cost. They know it could cause engine failure but what do the people who designed the motor know, it worked a couple times now.


Hell why buy tires, the wheel alone will work, it may not be proper but it will work

why stop there? forget all the requirements for the car, just do your own thing
 
i'm switching over to 5w 20 i always thought the oil cap said 5w 30 lol but it says 5w 20

hope i didnt do damage
 
i'm switching over to 5w 20 i always thought the oil cap said 5w 30 lol but it says 5w 20

hope I didn't do damage

you can't trust solely on the cap on a used car, people lose or break them and replace them with generic ones.
 
2012 hondas some require 0w-20 and I am sure some other manufactures have the same.

...

As I understand it, anything that calls for 5W20 can use 0W20 with no warranty or wear concerns. 0W20 is supposed to be a little better than 5W20. I use it now and then, but usually I can only find 5W20 at a good price.

A little off to the side, but I use 0W40 in my BMW, because that's what BMW calls for. I don't care to second guess Ford/Lincoln or BWM on what oil to use.
 
Engineers design something to work a certain way, and the most problems come from when people try to alter that, especially when they have no clue what they are doing, or how the engineers came to the conclusion they did.

People may not understand it, but there is a group of folks that spends years perfecting the lubricants, and then some yahoo, with an autozone club card wants to challenge what he knows cause he done went and looked it up on Google.

of course that goes for almost everything in the world.
 
"and then some yahoo, with an autozone club card" HAAAAHAHHAHAHAHAaa
 
Ah, yes... Autozone... the place that told me that the hose I'd pulled off my El Camino a few years back was the wrong one, and the one that they sold me that turned the wrong way was the correct one because their computer says so. And we all know that if the computer says it's the right part then the one that's been on the car for years has GOT to be the wrong one.
 
Engineers design something to work a certain way, and the most problems come from when people try to alter that, especially when they have no clue what they are doing, or how the engineers came to the conclusion they did.

People may not understand it, but there is a group of folks that spends years perfecting the lubricants, and then some yahoo, with an Autozone club card wants to challenge what he knows cause he done went and looked it up on Google.

of course that goes for almost everything in the world.

Or a gas card..........
 
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100% stock only after market is the oil and air filter

all i need is 8 spoke 17" wheels

newer front grill and paint the chrome trims

and it will still be all OEM



your wheel wells look like crap dude.. and its hard to really judge the condition with the quality of those pics and the darkness of the garage etc..

also ,, thats a nice cassette player you got there in the dash..
 
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