P1537 Code questions Please clear up questions

Trippen Out

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I have been digging around the forums and google. about 3 days ago my CEL came on. before i had a chance to check it went out and i went about my business. Today leaving for school it came back on. having the opportunity to stop by advance auto parts i had them pull the codes. It came back as p1357 speed control. I was a little baffeled at what that meant, so home i came and search i started. After reading through the forums here it turns out that everyone saying that it relates to the IRMC. now i have a 96. gota love the 96. i do indeed have a back up set already :). So here is my question. is this indeed what the code means or is there variations of the code? the car just hit 135k and i just completed a long over due oil change. now i have not had the chance to seafoam the crap out of it yet. but i plan on it. i would like to get a little bit of feed back first. Thank you in advance.
 
I could be wrong on this but I think you can remove the intake and clean them but not positive. That's something I have never had to worry with before so really, I couldn't suggest anything but it seems like you can try cleaning them. Replacing while the engine is in the car I don't believe is going to be very fun at all.

Looks like the 2nd line in your sig finally came to life. Hope you don't have to replace them. I also think there is an actuator or something that makes them move open to close and maybe that vaccuum is messed up. IDK
 
Is it 1357, or 1537? You have both numbers posted.

do i? my bad it is 1537.

I have seafoamed the crap out of the engine. the light is still on. i cant seem to get my hand on the back of the motor to check the actual part to see if i can move it.

Can anyone tell me what the symptoms are of a stuck open IRMC. it seams like the car is a little sluggish and looks like my mpg has dropped a little bit too.
 
Found this and it might help. The below info is not from me but from someone that knows what they're talking about.

Just take the two leads from the IMRC vacuum valve that sits on the valve cover, and hook them up to activate a relay. One of them has 12v, the other has ground. Above the 3k mark ECU cuts off the ground signal from that wire. Then just use a separate 12v signal to send it through the relay to the control box. If you need the pin-out on it, let me know I have the diagram somewhere. There are two pins on it that you can use to verify the IMRCs being open, they are basically a closed circuit when the motor is engaged.

If you want to control through a window switch, just send the power to the control box whenever you need to, let it be 3k, 3.5 or whatever for that matter.

Window switch is a smart device that based on engine RPMS lets you control another circuit, usually in a "window" of RPMS, say between 3000 RMPS and 7000RMPS, for either spraying n2o, or controlling IMRCs as in this case.

To do this on the vacuum controlled IMRCs, you would have to control the ground signal that ECU sends to the vacuum valve. Remember, is has ground under 3k, looses the ground above 3k.
 
I just think you have a vacuum leak on one of them (right side) because if both were stuck open, I think you would see code P1537 and P1538, yours being "Right runner intake manifold solenoid control" so either the solenoid or vacuum for it.
 
I just think you have a vacuum leak on one of them (right side) because if both were stuck open, I think you would see code P1537 and P1538, yours being "Right runner intake manifold solenoid control" so either the solenoid or vacuum for it.

that has been brought up as well from some friends of mine. either way i still need to get to the back side to check it right.
 
Nasty IMRCs are SO fun...the intake really isn't that big of a deal to R/R...however when you clean them, use an intake/throttle body cleaner so you don't damage the seals on the ends where the actuator rod comes out for the vacuum solenoid

here is one from a 120k motor
a5c3908b.jpg


when you remove the solenoids, check them with your mouth, just suck on the little stem, there's a diaphragm in them that catches the vacuum and activates the rod

Once cleaned they should move freely and your motor will love you for it
a1e69ff9.jpg
 
Nasty IMRCs are SO fun...the intake really isn't that big of a deal to R/R...however when you clean them, use an intake/throttle body cleaner so you don't damage the seals on the ends where the actuator rod comes out for the vacuum solenoid

here is one from a 120k motor
a5c3908b.jpg


when you remove the solenoids, check them with your mouth, just suck on the little stem, there's a diaphragm in them that catches the vacuum and activates the rod

Once cleaned they should move freely and your motor will love you for it
a1e69ff9.jpg

thanks. the ones i have look as clean as the second set you posted. im right at 135k on my car so i can just imagine what they look like
 

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