Oxygen Sensor Question

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soduka

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Your points of interest should be, front/rear, not left or right

I'm sure someone will chime in on those parts respective holes
 
Sapperfire said:
Your points of interest should be, front/rear, not left or right

I'm sure someone will chime in on those parts respective holes
Click to expand...

Thanks for the correction. Either way all I know is that they're in a spot that Ford thought would be humorous to any mechanic attempting to change them.

A bit different from my previous experience with a Chrysler Concorde. You open the hood on that car and they are right there in the engine bay up front. Could not be more simple.
 
Sapperfire said:
Your points of interest should be, front/rear, not left or right

I'm sure someone will chime in on those parts respective holes
Click to expand...

nah. 94 doesn't have front/rear.

his view would only pertain to left/right.

and i'm pretty sure my car (93) got both short ones... pretty sure, but not 100% certain...
 
Why would a 94 be left or right.. the parts should be listed as upstream or downstream of the Cat
 
rock auto lists:

MOTORCRAFT Part # DY661 {#F0SF9F472BA, F1SZ9F472B} Heated
F0SF-9F472-BA; 11-1/4 In. Wire Length; Upstream Front
Click to expand...

so buy that one. DY661.
 
Ah.. I quit reserving my memory to details about base models
 
Long wires are nice.
Changing those on a gen 1 is a party if you don't drop the cats.
 
I done mine when I had my 94 and they had 10" wires on them and I used Motorcraft but I see now they don't carry them in 10". I remember that I had more than enough wire left with 10 inches. On the pass side, it's nice to have the longer wire so that you can drop that side of the exhaust, just at the flange. It helps you to get to it a lot easier. The drivers side... Just take it slow and you'll get it out and the new one in. It's really not as hard as it looks. I can say for certain, you will be tucking some wire with the longer ones. I'd get one long and one short but that's just me.
 
ford nut said:
Long wires are nice.
Changing those on a gen 1 is a party if you don't drop the cats.
Click to expand...

And how would you propose dropping the cat on the drivers side? :confused: That side can be done in about 15 min. Just unplug the old and screw in the new one and then plug it in. Passenger side, drop the exhaust down and set it on a jack stand or something because you can't hold that and mess with the O2 at the same time. Both can be done within 45 min, from jacking it up to putting it back down.
 
Ops....correct Terry, cat not cats.
Dropping the exhaust is the key.
I left mine up and got my daughter to plug in the new sensors.

My hands are too wide, she did it no problem.
 
ford nut said:
Ops....correct Terry, cat not cats.
Dropping the exhaust is the key.
I left mine up and got my daughter to plug in the new sensors.

My hands are too wide, she did it no problem.
Click to expand...


I was just pickin atchya Kirk. Yes, dropping the pass side helps out a lot. I was able to get the drivers side started fairly easy but another thing that comes into play is how rusty is the car being worked on..... Luckily I wasn't dealing with any at all but I guess they could be soaked with PB Blaster with a rag on the back side so that it's not sprayed all over everything down there. I had more trouble with the passengers side IIRC but that's because I was dealing with dropping the exhaust down about a foot or less. Plugging it in was rough but threading it wasn't bad at all. Put exhaust back up and I was using an air ratchet for the exhaust flange and then to make sure it was good and tight, I broke out the impact. It all worked out very well.
 
The drivers side sensor looks like it can be done from the top if you have really thin hands.
 
soduka said:
The drivers side sensor looks like it can be done from the top if you have really thin hands.
Click to expand...

No sense scratching yourself all to hell just because it looks like enough room... just drop the pipes and do everything from the bottom

My list of tools is
Small pry bar or large screw driver for the rubber mid hanger (a quick blast of PB Blaster will help it slide right off)
15mm deep 1/2"
13mm 1/2"
1/2" universal
1' 1/2" extension
11mm 1/2"
1/2" impact
PB Blaster
O2 sensor socket with 3/8" ratchet with a break over head
 
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