Oil Change Question

M

mot

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I just did the COP's/Plugs/VCG's yesterday and it wasn't TOO bad...... but I don't look forward to major work past this.

My motor looked clean. I remember reading through here that someone mentioned Ford recommended full synthetic oil. It's all that's been used in mine. I'm at 87k right now. It has always been religiously changed on the 10's. It has always come out only slightly dirty and not gritty at all. Sometimes I have changed the filter at 5K. Does anyone see any issues in this as I haven't noticed any bad buildup or sludge when I took the VCG's off.

I have always changed my oil every 5k in my other cars, but usually used conventional oil. Being around mechanics over the years, and listening to the reps for parts places.. they always stated that the oil company was in the business to make money and that's why they say every 3k. With newer filter technology it's a waste of money. The one rep had a 1/2 dozen or so filters that were chopped in half on a board one time. The NAPA Gold filters were one of the higher rated. I've used these for sometime.

I have also talked w people who work at a local chemical manufacturing plant (Lubrizol) that makes all sorts of additives. (They were clients of my uncle's shop) They swear by and use the high mileage oil in their vehicles. They also stated that fuel injector cleaners are about the same, so save money and buy the cheaper brands. (These are people that are chemists and actually research and make these products I have talked to.) I figure, if the people who are making and researching the additives and oils and testing them on motors there at the plant are using these products, and saying what to use and not to use... it's sound advice. Any comments? Thanks.
 
I would not go 10K in mine but thats just personal preference. I do 5K intervals and avoid fram filters at all costs.

I know others go that high and the oil comes out clean. My last change looked like i had new oil coming out.
 
Well, you might as well debate which religion is right as to debate what oil change interval you should use. There are many answers and it seems to be impossible to say who is right.

Like BlackLS06 I change mine every 5K miles and avoid Fram filters. Ford recommends full synthetic and they still recommend (require for warranty coverage) 5K intervals with full synthetic. Given the 3.9's known problems with timing chain tensioners, I just can't see extending the change interval on it.
 
I have used Royal Purple/Mobil1 with ~10K mile changes for the last 160K miles on my old, now my daughter's, 2000 V6 LS. The car uses no oil between changes and the oil comes out nice and slick; no shiny specks. As she drives ~2K miles per year, I now do it yearly; same with my wife's LS as she drives less than 5K miles per annum. I just started (at ~80K miles) to go about every 15K miles on my LS with Mobil1's 15K synthetic. I still remember when Mobil1 first came out and their 25K mile or yearly change. I use K&N filters.
 
My Ford Powertrain Warranty dictates that I have the car serviced by a Ford/Lincoln Dealer according to the factory-specified interval and fluid type and the dealer recommended service. My maintenance plan also pays for it to be changed on a 3K interval. So I just drop it off every 3-5K miles and let them have at it.

When all that runs out, I'll just stick with the 5K-mi interval. For the $40 it costs every 2-3 months it's not worth messing with. I've got better things to worry about on this thing other then stretching my oil change interval.
 
I've been runnin Amsoil Signature Series oil with Wix Filters good for 25k or a year whichever comes first for about the last two and a half years. When I first bought the car, I used Royal Purple for the first four years then switched. Due to me being usually gone overseas, I really yput about 10k on the oil a year since switching.
 
I let the dealer change it now. Prior to this I may have fell victim to marketing by changing it every 3k miles or 3 months.
 
can anybody care to elaborate; whats wrong with fram filters?
seems like thats all the garages have, if its worth it, ill bring my own
 
I've grown to believe in the two seasons of Michigan. Never make a trip home uninterrupted because of those two. Live in Indiana for the next year.

Fram filters are poorly manufactured. A quick google search will bring up more horror stories than you and I would care to read. I used to use them on my truck until I read up on them. The filter can collapse on itself without you knowing until it's too late, I heard the inside is made with paper where it shouldn't be. I used one once, stupid of me yes, but the rubber gasket stuck to the block when I took it off, I spewed oil everywhere on startup because I didn't notice the gasket stuck to where the oil filter seats itself. Scared the :q:q:q:q out of me. Just use the Google search for more stories good sir.
 
Part of the 3 months or 3k miles mantra is marketing, but there is some truth to it. Not from the aspect that your car will explode if you don't get new oil every three months and its certainly not asking too much for these newer synthetic oils to last longer, its more about checking your car out. Not to say that there is anyone here because most of us are regularly working on our cars so we see them on the inside, but what about the average driver who doesn't work on their car or wash it or put air in the tires? We see them all the time. Problems on the car are easier and cheaper to fix when they are caught early. If your hood is only getting opened every 25k miles how much stuff can go wrong before you notice? It has been said before but it is a personal preference and the debate could go on for hours but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, or something like that.
 
Change the oil and rotate tires every 10k miles in my Mark VIII (65k miles), filter every 5k. Royal Purple 5w30, PureOne filter, Cooper tires. Oil always looks good.
 
I generally let the dealer change my oil every 5k. For the $30 (out the door) I can't afford to by the oil and filter at my local parts store. Plus while they are doing it, I can browse LVC in their waiting room, while eating their doughnuts and drinking their coffee instead of spilling oil in my garage.
 
Thanks for all the insight. I noticed the purple oil in the store the other day and wondered about it. I usually check the oil every other fill up, along with all the other fluids. So, I'm under the hood fairly regularly. I understand some concerns about some people never looking until it's too late. I've seen it enough over the years.

I may just throw some of that sea foam in it before the oil change next time. It's been awhile since I have done a cleaning treatment. I was raised that preventative measures save you. I witnessed it firsthand with my old Ford F-150 4.9 straight 6. She went 230k running GREAT before someone went left of center and took her out. It was ALL preventative measures that kept her going. She went 180k before I had to do heads. 200k before rear axle bearings. And the list goes on.... So, like I stated.... I WHOLEHEARTEDLY agree with being in there and keeping an eye on things.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE INSIGHT! GREAT FORUM! GLAD I FOUND IT!
 
oil change interval

As far as oils go, as long as an oil meets the specific API service requirements recommended in your owners manual, the oil should be OK to use in your engine. Personally, I would stay away from bargain brands. The same goes for synthetic oils.
As far as oil change interval goes, it's a matter of personal opinion. Again, as a minimum, stick with the manufacturers recommendations and you won't go wrong . Personally, I use full synthetic, Castrol, in my 2001 Mazda Tribute, aka Ford Escape, and haven't had any problems. She is 168,000 miles young and purrs like a kitten. I admittedly, change my oil though at 5000 to 7500 mile intervals. This same reasoning applies to oil filters also. Stay away from the bargain brands and spend a little extra for a good brand. Check to see how small of microns is filtered from the oil. I think 5 microns is the standard, but if you can find a 3 micron filter they will keep the oil cleaner.
There's and old saying, "pay me now or pay me later".
 
scorpionking0102 said:
As far as oils go, as long as an oil meets the specific API service requirements recommended in your owners manual, the oil should be OK to use in your engine. ...
<snip>
I think 5 microns is the standard, but if you can find a 3 micron filter they will keep the oil cleaner.
There's and old saying, "pay me now or pay me later".
Click to expand...

You should not exceed the oil pump's ability to spray the upper half of the engine. If the filter is too restrictive (beyond factory specs) you may actually starve the flow.

Highway miles are typically easier on engines because the revs are consistent and the spray is uniform and the engine is typically running in the optimum range (meaning little variation in rpms, in the design torque range, gives better mileage and other nice benefits one of which is cleaner oil) City miles tend to suck carbons into the oil because the engine does more sucking than blowing (in simple terms).

Unless the engine is badly worn, the oil stays fairly clean with spec filters, but the city driving, lots of stop and go, (lots of sucking less blowing) drags the carbon into the system, and the oil, which is another filter in a sense as well as a lubricant, captures that stuff. Hence you need to change the oil.

My guess is the LS is designed to require an oil change (with standard oil) at approximately 5000 miles under a combination of average city/highway use. If you find yourself driving more city miles than highway miles, I would think it prudent to change the oil more frequently.

If you're a long distance salesman, (lots of travel on the highway), you can probably stretch the 5000 to something more like 7000+

My 2 cents
 
I've used nothing but Fram filters and Valvoline products for 43 years with no problems, no loss of compression, no adding oil. I change between 4000 and 5000 on regular oil, 6 to 7 thousand on synthetic as soon as I can't see the hatched area on dip stick. I change my own, as in the past the change places don't tighten the drain plug enough (afraid to strip it) forcing me to take it back or scoot unter the vehicle anyway. As they say, "If you want something done right, do it yourself."

2004 Town Car Limited with 53,000
1995 Taurus V6 " 156,000
1987 Grand Marquis LS 215,000
 
So, I ran across an item on ebay last night. I made an offer for $30 and they accepted. One lot left if anyone is interested. Item number 350445677184. If they are bogus, I will return once I get them since there is a return policy but for the price, it is hard not to jump on them.
 
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