Oh yeah! Nitrous for the win!! :D

I would agree because it makes sense. I stuck with what others did because it worked for them.

So, I changed the plugs today and the oil. :D Old plugs ranged in gap between 50 and 65 thousands.. yikes. I put new ones in one range colder and gapped to 33. Car runs like a raped ape. Saweet!

Also, hit the nos for the first time and I was er... sadly disappointed. I didn't notice hardly any increase in power. I purged the fuel system and made sure everything was functioning. But the butt dyno is not impressed. I thought a 75 shot would be way apparent. On the drive home I did to 60-70 pulls in 3 with the SST and on/off nitrous took about the same amount of time (~4-5secs). Not saying that thats uber scientific but I thought there would be some difference. :/
 
what was your bottle pressure? actually, what was the temperature outside?

unless your bottle was at 900-1000psi (which usually means around 95F) you weren't getting full power with the 75 hp jets.

If it was 50 F outside, I bet you were only giving it 40 hp, plus you were giving it fuel for 75 so it was running rich and you were losing some power. if you don't have a bottle heater, take the bottle out and give it a warm bath. This will quickly heat the liquid inside (and not just the bottle so that it cools down fast) and you should be good to go.

You'll want to purchase an xcal if you don't have one because you'll want to adjust the timing for pinging when it happens. and everyone with nitrous here swears by the progressive controller.

trust me, when its set up right, you will notice it.:D
 
Quik LS said:
the returnless fuel system basically drives the fuel into the end of the far (passenger) side of the fuel rail and then build up pressure, adding fuel as the injectors let it out.

so my worry about tapping into the line between the rail (for the fuel feed of the wet system) is that you can draw back some fuel from the far injector (cylinder #4) since all the fuel getting to is going past the regulator and then past the fuel tap off, what's left is then making it to the passenger side rail.

Tapping the fuel line before the regulator seems to allow less disruption of the flow across to all the injectors.
Click to expand...




You are correct in that if you encounter a pressure drop in a certain area it will have an affect on the pressure of other nearby areas in the fuel system. However even with 100 shot worth of fuel exiting the rail and thus bypassing the injectors it still isn't that large of an outflow compared to what the fuel pump will be able to flow. The pressure drop that occurs in a given area will seek equilibrium immediately and achieve it shortly after. That equilibrium will reach the FRPT almost immediately which will then be compensated for. Think of the tee for the nitrous 100 shot like adding two more fuel injectors into the mix. It doesn't really matter where the location on the rail or crossover because the FRPT will sense any pressure drop and compensate. If there was that large a worry about pressure loss to the outboard injectors then the automakers would have installed a distribution block to each individual injector and placed the FRPT directly on that block to monitor pressure right before it distributes. It is no huge deal to tie into the rail or its crossover for your fuel even though I personally chose not to.

Now what I said all works because of the "slight" amount of fuel that is bypassing the injectors with the 100 shot. If the "loss" of fuel were substantially greater then it would take much longer to recover, if at all, and the lean spike would be more pronounced. That is usually why people switch to standalone nitrous fuel systems when spraying the bigger shots like 200+. It is also nice to be able to put racegas in the smaller fuel tank so that you have it when spraying but not have to fill the entire regular fuel tank with it. That stuff gets expensive.
 
02LincLS said:
what was your bottle pressure? actually, what was the temperature outside?

unless your bottle was at 900-1000psi (which usually means around 95F) you weren't getting full power with the 75 hp jets.

If it was 50 F outside, I bet you were only giving it 40 hp, plus you were giving it fuel for 75 so it was running rich and you were losing some power. if you don't have a bottle heater, take the bottle out and give it a warm bath. This will quickly heat the liquid inside (and not just the bottle so that it cools down fast) and you should be good to go.

You'll want to purchase an xcal if you don't have one because you'll want to adjust the timing for pinging when it happens. and everyone with nitrous here swears by the progressive controller.

trust me, when its set up right, you will notice it.:D
Click to expand...

900-1000psi = 95F?!?!?! :eek:

Be like hey man wanna run? Yah man, hold on I have to give my bottle a bath in 100 degree water for an hour and then I only have ten minutes to run you before it cools.

When its setup right.. you mean when the conditions are perfect and I dump a few more hundred right? hahaha. bottle heater, controller, x-cal, dyno tuuuunnneee.. $$

but the bottle was room temp, 65-75 degrees :/ I have it in the trunk between the boom boom's and the back seat. next to the warm toasty amp :D

NOS for the fail. :( Didn't realize that I was getting into an overpriced picky system that reminds me of tuning in the carb'ed days. (ie: it will never be perfect)
 
its still by far the cheapest power you will get and if you want a safe, and consistant setup, you need to shell out a little more $$. its still 100X easier than setting up for a turbo or SC. Ask ILLS or Quik.

the controller saves your transmission from the harsh bang of all 75 (or whatever size) shot from hitting the driveline all at once.

the bottle warmer costs $200 and will give you consistent power.


here's how i would decide what to do first. go ahead and give your bottle the bath (with a gage on it so you don't blow the burst seal!!). feel what the 75 hp feels like. if you think thats enough than get the bottle warmer and hold off on the controller. just remember you will spin the tires when your 75 hp turns on all at once, and its harsh on the car.


if you decide 75 is not enough, get the progressive controller first (also about $200). and rejet to 100 hp. this will drastically reduce tear on the car, and be much faster, assuming your bottle is warm. (you will need a better fuel pump before going to 125 so don't do that)

don't cheap out now as you'll be shelling out more $$ to replace the motor. there are also other means such as nitrogen push for consistant pressure, but thats a little overkill at this power level.
 
Hmmm I have no pressure gage on the bottle. So, I guess thats the first stop. lol

But yes, I can understand why a progressive is nice and I will be keeping a lookout for one. I am planning on going to 100 and staying there. Then start looking to other avenues for performance mods.

I will get a bottle heater too because I want the consistent power.

So I have a question that I have not found an answer for yet...

...why don't people just leave the bottle opened? :>
 
Not really.. lol I came from the turbo 4 cyl world and more power equates to turning up a wastegate lol AND still having some sense of security. HAHA
 
Makes sense. Wasteful and at 4.50/lb why waste? lol

So.... my car told me today to check my fuel cap.. any ideas?? I retightened all my hoses and everythings seem kopasetic no leaks..
 
02LincLS said:
the bottle warmer costs $200 and will give you consistent power.
Click to expand...



There are quite a few bottle warmers that cost quite a bit. There is one that I have found that works well and is pretty darn cheap. Go to the following link.

Dynotune Nitrous Bottle Warmer. It is automatic and only costs $89.

As already mentioned a bottle pressure gauge is mandatory. I suggest you install it directly onto the bottle valve 1/8" NPT female port. This will allow you to see the bottle pressure whether the valve is open or closed.
 
Thanks for the lookout guys on the parts, I am gonna see about them and yes I do see what your saying about intake damage. I can't believe that you had it up that far in the intake but yet it did damage all the way down!

But that's alright my intake is made of carbon ;) lol But regardless I don't want to see the same carnage.

Also I don't plan to spray unless I am SST, most my runs are freeway anywho. Unless it's a track day then the progressive or even a window would be really nice to have.

Anybody have any thoughts on my gas cap issue though? I am stumped not really sure if my car is complaining of low fuel pressure or that it's not creating a vacuum in the tank. Meaning that a vacuum line got disconnected.. I don't know enough about how are lines work.
 
that wasnt my car, and he had the nozzle right up by the intake. the back fire threw all the unburned gas back towards the filter though.

you did try replacing the gas cap right?
 
Nope didn't replace the cap, I figured after all the fuel line hacking and tweaking I have done since Sunday it would be something else.

I mean really how often does someone need to change their gas cap?? lol
 
check the gas cap means the fuel system cannot pull a vacuum in the tank - it effects the emissions and the fuel delievery.

Have you touched the fuel pumps?
 
Quik LS said:
check the gas cap means the fuel system cannot pull a vacuum in the tank - it effects the emissions and the fuel delievery.

Have you touched the fuel pumps?
Click to expand...

I did not touch the... fuel PUMPS? We have two?! Saweet!

But anyways, nope I ran the N2O line around the tank nearby the charcoal canister and all that, changed the spark plugs, and hacked that fuel line. I was thinking that maybe my fuel lines were sucking in air instead of spitting out fuel but that doesnt seem probable anymore as I tightened all the clamps.

So maybe I accidently disconnected something underhood. I didn't touch (to my knowledge) any of the EVAP stuff in the rear of the car.
 
one electric pump - but a pickup in each tank.

well - somewhere there is a vacuum leak that is preventing the tank from pulling vacuum - that why it think you gas cap is loose....
 
The Hotness said:
900-1000psi = 95F?!?!?! :eek:

Be like hey man wanna run? Yah man, hold on I have to give my bottle a bath in 100 degree water for an hour and then I only have ten minutes to run you before it cools.

When its setup right.. you mean when the conditions are perfect and I dump a few more hundred right? hahaha. bottle heater, controller, x-cal, dyno tuuuunnneee.. $$

but the bottle was room temp, 65-75 degrees :/ I have it in the trunk between the boom boom's and the back seat. next to the warm toasty amp :D

NOS for the fail. :( Didn't realize that I was getting into an overpriced picky system that reminds me of tuning in the carb'ed days. (ie: it will never be perfect)
Click to expand...

your crazy... do a turbo setup on any stock NA car and it will cost you 5-6k... you spend another 800 bucks and your done...SCT, heater, bottle gauge, and progressive controller..... I would go with the 100 dollar heater and a bottle gauge.. and run that.. i bet you will think different... and that 95F to 65 to 75f you had is 20 to 30 degree difference probably like night and day!!


oh and you should have done your home work... that ZEX setup is a waste of money... its pretty much two solenoids connected to a TPS signal... you can buy a NOS sniper kit for 300 bucks shipped and a MSD TPS and RPM window switch for 150... then a bottle heater and bottle gauge (if the NOS sniper doesnt come with the gauge, I don't recall) and you got 550-600 bucks in a good safe nitrous setup
 
Craigslist FTW!

Brand new kit + full bottle = $300 :D


I will start looking for the vacuum leaks then, :( I have some tricky idle stumble too have had that for quite sometime though.. Gonna add some fluid to the fan cause shes a wee bit low I hear that can be the culprit sometimes. :rolleyes:
 
i don't see what the relation could be on that one. all i know is make sure your coils are firing good before messing with nitrous.
 
I did a search on here and thats what I read a couple of times, low fan fluid - being a little stumbly at idle similar to a vacuum leak. I dunno either but I hear new things on here all the time. hahaha. Like who has a fluid ran engine fan?? That was a first for me.


I did get the gas cap thing figured out, I jiggled and inspected all the vacuum lines related under the hood and the light when away. It hasn't returned since! WHoot! :D

Thanks for all the help peeps! Gives me some more faith into this forum again!
 
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