Obsolete Strut Rod needed or where to find

1BadMoJoe

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Obsolete Ford/Lincoln part, this is the mildly shaped S curved piece that connects to the lower control arm forward to the frame, which are affixed the common to find strut rod bushing kits; to frame, to arm

Problem; The rusted end nuts of the bushing and washers to the threaded strut rod will not let go; penetrating oil, Big impact, "lightly" heating the nut using torch has not worked...

1.) Easy fix is to torch/cut the nuts and threaded tips of the Strut Rod to replace the strut rods and both end bushing kits with the new Moog lower control arms going in.
a.) No replacement can be found for the strut rods...that were not cut yet.
b.) none on eb.ay, only hundreds of listings for the bushing kits, which I already have when ordered LCA.
 
I managed to break the nut by taking and placing a large pipe wrench on the flat area, rotating it so the handle is parallel with the ground. Then taking an impact socket and putting it on the nut with a breaker bare. I then use my floor jack to jack up the breaker bar, while the pipe wrench handle rotates until hitting the frame. I continue to jack until the car is just coming up off the jack stand, and the give the side of the socket a good wrap with a hammer. It usually breaks the nut free. There is a lot of weight put on this socket and breaker bar so I would only use 1/2" size. I own a 24" bar.
 
If you want another strut rod you're going to have to go to the junk yard and get one. No one as I understand it ever made replacements. Exact same part as on the 89-97 Thunderbird and Cougar. I didn't lightly heat up the nut, I got that sucker burning hot with a torch and it finally let go using a W7150 ingersoll Rand Impact (rated for 1100 ft-lbs reverse busting torque)
 
I hope you got the OEM strut rod bushings.

Otherwise, you'll be doing the job again within the year.
 
That sounded ominous. You're the suspension expert - why is OEM so critical in this application?
 
Strut rod to frame bushings OEM are a must. Moog, ACDelco, every aftermarket company used thermoplastic to make them which does not work. The Ford OEM are rubber and metal and that's what works. The thermoplastic aftermarket for the strut rod to lower control arm are fine.
 
That sounded ominous. You're the suspension expert - why is OEM so critical in this application?
Here is a photo of what commonly happens with the Moog bushings. IMG_0204.jpg
That happened after about 2,000 miles

IMG_0204.jpg
 
Obsolete Ford/Lincoln part, this is the mildly shaped S curved piece that connects to the lower control arm forward to the frame, which are affixed the common to find strut rod bushing kits; to frame, to arm

Problem; The rusted end nuts of the bushing and washers to the threaded strut rod will not let go; penetrating oil, Big impact, "lightly" heating the nut using torch has not worked...

1.) Easy fix is to torch/cut the nuts and threaded tips of the Strut Rod to replace the strut rods and both end bushing kits with the new Moog lower control arms going in.
a.) No replacement can be found for the strut rods...that were not cut yet.
b.) none on eb.ay, only hundreds of listings for the bushing kits, which I already have when ordered LCA.

I believe I have one extra strut rod in good condition laying around as I had the exact same problem and bought two. I can look when I get home.
 
That sounded ominous. You're the suspension expert - why is OEM so critical in this application?

Strut rod to frame bushings OEM are a must. Moog, ACDelco, every aftermarket company used thermoplastic to make them which does not work. The Ford OEM are rubber and metal and that's what works. The thermoplastic aftermarket for the strut rod to lower control arm are fine.

Soduka got it right. The aftermarket bushings all suck, and disintegrate within a year...
 
I'd check with Racebronco and see if he has any or can get them from one of his California junkyard cars.
If you want new original strut rods, retail is around $100 ea, and there are a few still floating around. I see two listed at a dealer in Puerto Rico haha.
Part number is F3LY-3468-A.
 
I had the same issue with my car. I went to pick n pull and got one cheap. If you don't want to do the work go to row52 from the pick n pull website parts location page. There are parts puller that will pull it for you for a reasonable fee.
If you need a reference I have a guy I have used that pulls parts from Chico, Sacramento and Modesto yards area. He's fair and affordable and will ship parts also.
 

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