Not your everyday overheating issue... and wont start.

Myco

Myco

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I recently had a bad waterpump and in the process changed out every piece of the cooling system. waterpump, radiator, thermostat, and the heater core is jumped.

Yesterday I was driving the car *around 70 degrees out* and noticed that the car was overheating. I pulled over. I'm not leaking any fluids,. not overflowing the reservoir. When she overheats she just goes up,and up... not up and down. the only thing this courld be in my opinion is a bad thermostat so I
will do that. BUT wait so after she overheated I limped her to where I was going and let her sit. Then, after she cools, I go back out and try to start the car and she just cranks and cranks.

I'm getting her towed home today. :( Any Ideas?

(gen II 97 LSC)

(Tommy. Pulled that plug last night and plugged it back in to no avail. )
 
noticed you didnt list the fan in the things changed. could this be the issue. maybe your fan isnt kicking on like it should or even sign the vrcm is going bad which controlls the fan and several other items
 
Myco said:
(Tommy. Pulled that plug last night and plugged it back in to no avail. )
Click to expand...

BUMMER, I was hoping it was the common CPS issue...which causes a no start.

With that said, I wonder if your PCM didn't go into overheat protect mode and shut down.

Before you load it on a wrecker, see if it starts...
 
cam sensor if failed WILL start the car 1 in 4 tries.

The cam sensor isn't REQUIRED to run, if the Cam Sensor fails. the PCM will make guesses as to which cylinder is/should be firing.
 
I'm getting it towed now. I'm not at the car but towing insurance covers it so no big deal. I'll try to start it again once it is back at the house.

The fan was on. I couldn't tell if it was on without the ac on max but with the ac on max the fan was on.
 
k9t8m said:
are you absolutely positive there is no air in the system?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty damn positive. I'm going to burp it just for kicks but I'm thinking the only thing I can do is change out the thermostat and then watch for leaks.
 
cars back at home. Disconnected battery and reconnected. Still doesn't start. How do I detect if the engine is getting gas. Tommy said something about a 'tire pressure looking thing' in the hood area you can depress to see if gas is getting to the engine. Only thing I see is in the front left but I thought that was for the air-conditioner.

dammit... and now after reconnecting the battery (after connecting neg and post wires) the car just clicks.

I thought this issue was fixed with new battery terminals. I had the battery tested a month ago when this happened. Oreillys said it had a bad cell. Autozone said it was good. New terminals and it's been working ever since. Till now. :mad:

Also checked all fuses.
 
Good News. Bought a new battery this morning. The old battery was still under pro-rated warranty so 38$ later with a new battery the car starts. Going to oreilly later to get codes read.
 
a low battery will cause all kinds of sensors to report incorrectly thus setting off a virtual plethora of trouble codes.

you have to remember, all these sensors require a specific reference voltage in order for them to do their job correctly.

if your battery is weak then the inbound signal to the sensor is incorrect, thus skewing the outbound data with errors due to the incorrect voltage.

SO... any codes you currently have are probably BS, due to improper battery voltage.

now you have a good battery, clear the codes, then go drive it.
ALL the old codes are suspect and cannot be trusted.

Dont waste time chasing erroneous codes that were stored from the "bad battery" time
 
XLRVIII said:
a low battery will cause all kinds of sensors to report incorrectly thus setting off a virtual plethora of trouble codes.

you have to remember, all these sensors require a specific reference voltage in order for them to do their job correctly.

if your battery is weak then the inbound signal to the sensor is incorrect, thus skewing the outbound data with errors due to the incorrect voltage.

SO... any codes you currently have are probably BS, due to improper battery voltage.

now you have a good battery, clear the codes, then go drive it.
ALL the old codes are suspect and cannot be trusted.

Dont waste time chasing erroneous codes that were stored from the "bad battery" time
Click to expand...

sounds reasonable. will do
 
Also a weak battery might have been sending bad information to the temp guage as well..and also could have had your fan running at a very low speed..

ALL the issues could trace back to bad battery
 
Myco said:
cars back at home. Disconnected battery and reconnected. Still doesn't start. How do I detect if the engine is getting gas. Tommy said something about a 'tire pressure looking thing' in the hood area you can depress to see if gas is getting to the engine. Only thing I see is in the front left but I thought that was for the air-conditioner.

dammit... and now after reconnecting the battery (after connecting neg and post wires) the car just clicks.

I thought this issue was fixed with new battery terminals. I had the battery tested a month ago when this happened. Oreillys said it had a bad cell. Autozone said it was good. New terminals and it's been working ever since. Till now. :mad:

Also checked all fuses.
Click to expand...

shrader valve. check around the intake manifold where your fuel rails sometimes there is a black cap on it. its small like the valve on your tire where you put the air in.
 
There were no codes but I haven't driven it further than a couple miles. Seems to be more responsive but that could just be the cooler air.
 
Just an update. Drove the car 25 miles last night with no overheating issues. However, it was 60 degrees last night. I'm beginning to suspect the battery was the issue.
 
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