No power to fuse box? No ignition.

Joey c said:
Tried to jump start. Nothing new happens. Like there’s no battery at all. Even worse it’s now dark and nothing lights up inside even with the other car hooked up. Somethings keeping power from that fuse box and can’t figure it out yet. Was hoping to hear those relays click when I hooked those cables up but no luck yet.
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Well at least you kno it's not your battery ...definitely a connection somewhere electronically malfunctioning within a certain module or component and/or REM
 
Joey c said:
Tried to jump start. Nothing new happens. Like there’s no battery at all. Even worse it’s now dark and nothing lights up inside even with the other car hooked up. Somethings keeping power from that fuse box and can’t figure it out yet. Was hoping to hear those relays click when I hooked those cables up but no luck yet.
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The other option is to purchase or rent/barrow a electrical probe meter ...start probing from the battery cables all the way to the ignition switch to check for power...could be a bad ignition switch...
 
Got one and I’ve been trying to trace backwards to the battery. Still a matter of getting power to that fuse box in the trunk I think a module is keeping it from powering up or a link/fuse but I don’t know if any that control such a big portion of the accessories. I’m just confused cause if it was one module it seems like some thing would work and power up either the front or the back depending on what module has gone bad but like I said nothing as far as accessories work.
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but even if I had a bad ignition switch I should still have power to things that have a constant 12volts such as dome lights, seats power, headlights. None of theese work. It almost seems as tho I can’t wake the car up. I know the rem and fem communicate and wait 45 min to go into sleep mode to conserve battery drain while parked for long durations. But no power to any exterior lights makes me question that theory to haha. Or possibly a central relay that’s stuck?
 
Joey c said:
Correct me if I’m wrong but even if I had a bad ignition switch I should still have power to things that have a constant 12volts such as dome lights, seats power, headlights. None of theese work. It almost seems as tho I can’t wake the car up. I know the rem and fem communicate and wait 45 min to go into sleep mode to conserve battery drain while parked for long durations. But no power to any exterior lights makes me question that theory to haha. Or possibly a central relay that’s stuck?
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Not 100% sure but one idea is maybe buy a new relay and start swapping it out with other relays, the other option is to go find a pick and pull and/or salvage yard that has a LS and swap out REM module I heard you will have to have it reprogrammed not 100% sure about this either but it makes sense that it will need to be
 
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I do have a extra relay around and will try swapping it out and see if I can get some power on. Might not have a lot of time to work on it today but gonna see what I can find and I’ll update if anything good happens. Another question does the ddm need to be programmed as well if I replace it. I know it does for the remotes but does it need to be programmed to the car? I do have a replacement ddm in the car now but it has worked fine for last few months just no remotes.
 
Joey c said:
I do have a extra relay around and will try swapping it out and see if I can get some power on. Might not have a lot of time to work on it today but gonna see what I can find and I’ll update if anything good happens. Another question does the ddm need to be programmed as well if I replace it. I know it does for the remotes but does it need to be programmed to the car? I do have a replacement ddm in the car now but it has worked fine for last few months just no remotes.
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Not sure but you might have a crack or break in the curcuitry on the board itself ....kinda weird that it just stopped working all of a sudden ...something isn't adding up here...I'm still thinking something got burned up in the electronic module some how because to many things have been effected by this intermittent error with electrical components
 
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I will try to visually inspect the module and see if I can find anything. Took the rem apart yesterday and it looked fine not evidence of cracks or burned spots on board. Do u know if I should have 12 volts to the large power wire on the altenator at all times. It’s not reading anything with the battery hooked up so I’m wondering if ther might be a fusible link along that wire somewhere.
 
Joey c said:
I keep thinking About the alarm system since it stopped working first. And then the actual key stoped disarming it in the door key hole unless the car was awake. Main question I guess would be could the alarm system keep all the relays and fuses from powering up. Even when I reconnect the battery?
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No.
 
Thank you and I checked the fuses. All are good and mine are 10 amp for #20 and 22. Both are fine. I also have a 5 amp in location 30 for the fem but that’s good as well. Still no power to anything when I hook battery up. When I check with a test light with the key in the on position none of have power either. I do get power to #26 thru 29 on bottom row. I also have power at #12 thru 17 and power at #3 thru 5. All other fuses are not powering up. This is for the box in the pass kick.
 
In the trunk...

Fuses 427 and 432 feed SSP relays 1 and 2.
Fuses 424 and 423 feed SSP relays 3 and 4.
Fuse 430 Feeds the REM, 420 feeds the DDM, 426 feed the FEM
These should be hot all the time.

SSP relay 1 feeds fuses 208, 209, 210, 211, 222, and 224 (cabin fuse box)
SSP relay 2 feeds fuses 223, 225, 230, and 233 (cabin fuse box)
SSP relay 3 feeds fuses 405, 406, 407, and 408
SSP relay 4 feeds fuses 401, 402, 403, and 404
These will only be hot when the SSP relays are on.



Other always hot fuses are: 429, 428, 430, 421, 425, 419, 415, 416, 411, 417, 418, 422, 431, 410

Does you console power point have power?
 
Fuse box under hood is all good. Fuses are fine and they all have power when ignition is on no dead ones under there. And I. The trunk Fuse #1 thru 9 have no power but 10 thru 18 do. Can only visually inspect the maxi fuses in trunk but all seem good too. Something that
 
Something strange I noticed. When I remove the maxi fuse from position 23 and 24 from trunk box and put a test light on them I have 12 volts on both male connectors for the fuse. That shouldn’t be. They are the fuses that control ssp4 and ssp 3. All other maxi fuses when I remove them only have power on 1 male connection which seems correct. Why would both piles of them fuse have 12 volts when the fuse is removed.
 
What consol power point are you referring to. My message center on dash does work and odometer display works.
 
Okay think this has something to do with the problem. All 4 maxi fuses that control ssp 1 thru 4 in the trunk fuse box when removed still have 12 volts to both poles. Basically there should be no continuity unless the fuse is inserted correct. All other maxi fuse only have 12 volts to one pole when fuse is removed. Other pole is dead which seems correct. Something is backfeeding power to the ssp fuses it seems like.
 
A little current leakage through modules that have more than one power source is not usually a problem.
 
Even if there is no leakage thru any of the other fuses. These are the maxi fuses with the glass tops. All 13 maxi fuses have power but the 4 for the ssp retain power when fuse is out. I know you understand what I’m saying but wouldn’t there be leakage in the others if that was the case. Just seemed odd that only those 4 fuses are the ones leaking voltage as you would say. And I do hear the fuel pump relay in this fuse box clicking when the key is cycled on and off.
 
Some circuits go to modules with more than one power source (like memory back up), and others don't. I wouldn't get to caught up in that. It still seems like the REM is the likely suspect. I bet if you pull the fuse for the REM, the leakage on the SSP relay fuses will go away. However, that doesn't prove anything at all.
 
Got ya. A secondary module that is working could be a power source for those fuses even if the correct power source isn’t powering them up. Well I’m close to being out of ideas and I’m good with electric circuits but this has got me feeling overwhelmed. Is there a way to check the rem myself or is that something only the stealership can do with the scan tools they have.
 
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