Sorry in advance for the wall of text. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Ok here is another "I have no heat" thread. I bought the car with some issues and here is where I am at.
2001 3.9
-I replaced the Degas Bottle, coolant crossover hose, thermostat and housing with the aluminum jag unit.
-Did a pressure test on the cooling system to see if I had any more leaks and it held pressure without a drop.
- Put the cooling system under vacuum with my Airlift Uview 550000 and filled it with coolant to spec.
- Opened the bleed and started the car and let idle with heat on max.
-Closed bleed once I got a stead stream out of it while making sure degas level was at max cold fill.
- Let the car idle for 5 minutes.
-Opened bleed again to let any trapped air out, had none so immediately closed it.
-Held engine at 2k rpm for 5 minutes but the heater only slightly warmed up.
-Returned to idle to find the air still is only slightly warm.
-Used my no contact infrared thermometer gun to verify the following:
-Thermostat had opened and was getting around the same temperature in both upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Lines going down to the Aux Pump and DCCV not clogged and coolant was getting to them.
- All 3 lines going to the heater core were nice and hot as well.
-Shut off car and ran a self diag. on the DATC. No codes, everything perfect.
-Let the car cool down and then repeated all the above to ensure I did not miss anything.
-Still have only the slightest bit of heat out of the vents.
Now here is my logic on the situation:
-Car runs and drives just fine. Does not over heat, no issues what so ever. If I had air getting into the cooling system still I would think that it would over heat. I have put close to 100 miles on it this way with no issues other than no heat.
-If I had an internal leak such as a head gasket I would see numerous signs such as coolant level dropping, over heating, pressure test would have shown a drop in pressure, possible missfire, steam out the exhaust ect.
-If the DCCV were bad I would not have hot coolant to the heater core.
-If the heater core were clogged I would not have hot coolant in the return line. So effectively I would have 2 hot lines and 1 cold.
-If I had a stuck blend door or bad actuator I should have gotten a code from the DATC when running the diag.
At this point I don't know why I do not have hot heat. My last thought is that I have a broken blend door that does not move when it should but does not show up on the self diag because the actuator is moving the rod as intended.
Ok here is another "I have no heat" thread. I bought the car with some issues and here is where I am at.
2001 3.9
-I replaced the Degas Bottle, coolant crossover hose, thermostat and housing with the aluminum jag unit.
-Did a pressure test on the cooling system to see if I had any more leaks and it held pressure without a drop.
- Put the cooling system under vacuum with my Airlift Uview 550000 and filled it with coolant to spec.
- Opened the bleed and started the car and let idle with heat on max.
-Closed bleed once I got a stead stream out of it while making sure degas level was at max cold fill.
- Let the car idle for 5 minutes.
-Opened bleed again to let any trapped air out, had none so immediately closed it.
-Held engine at 2k rpm for 5 minutes but the heater only slightly warmed up.
-Returned to idle to find the air still is only slightly warm.
-Used my no contact infrared thermometer gun to verify the following:
-Thermostat had opened and was getting around the same temperature in both upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Lines going down to the Aux Pump and DCCV not clogged and coolant was getting to them.
- All 3 lines going to the heater core were nice and hot as well.
-Shut off car and ran a self diag. on the DATC. No codes, everything perfect.
-Let the car cool down and then repeated all the above to ensure I did not miss anything.
-Still have only the slightest bit of heat out of the vents.
Now here is my logic on the situation:
-Car runs and drives just fine. Does not over heat, no issues what so ever. If I had air getting into the cooling system still I would think that it would over heat. I have put close to 100 miles on it this way with no issues other than no heat.
-If I had an internal leak such as a head gasket I would see numerous signs such as coolant level dropping, over heating, pressure test would have shown a drop in pressure, possible missfire, steam out the exhaust ect.
-If the DCCV were bad I would not have hot coolant to the heater core.
-If the heater core were clogged I would not have hot coolant in the return line. So effectively I would have 2 hot lines and 1 cold.
-If I had a stuck blend door or bad actuator I should have gotten a code from the DATC when running the diag.
At this point I don't know why I do not have hot heat. My last thought is that I have a broken blend door that does not move when it should but does not show up on the self diag because the actuator is moving the rod as intended.
