No Heat Help
- Thread starter 00blkV6
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_249
I know that there are differences between gen I and gen II, but I can't imagine that the coil resistance spec would be backwards between the two. I would assume a typo in your service manual. You could verify this by taking your meter to the parts place and measuring a new valve, if it is in stock.
tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
copy from my ford manual
H13 CHECK THE COOLANT CONTROL VALVE SOLENOID RESISTANCE
1
2
Measure the resistance between the coolant control valve jumper harness C134 pin 4, circuit 30-FB3 (RD/OG) and pin 6, circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN).
3
Measure the resistance between the coolant control valve jumper harness C134 pin 4, circuit 30-FB3 (RD/OG) and pin 3, circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU).
l Do both resistances measure between 10-23 ohms?
è Yes
INSTALL a new coolant control valve. TEST the system for normal operation.
****does seem a little strange*****I'll check it out.
I checked it out in my old DCCV which was bad, this resistance was 15.7 ohms
H13 CHECK THE COOLANT CONTROL VALVE SOLENOID RESISTANCE
1
2
Measure the resistance between the coolant control valve jumper harness C134 pin 4, circuit 30-FB3 (RD/OG) and pin 6, circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN).
3
Measure the resistance between the coolant control valve jumper harness C134 pin 4, circuit 30-FB3 (RD/OG) and pin 3, circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU).
l Do both resistances measure between 10-23 ohms?
è Yes
INSTALL a new coolant control valve. TEST the system for normal operation.
****does seem a little strange*****I'll check it out.
I checked it out in my old DCCV which was bad, this resistance was 15.7 ohms
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
My manual stops at H10, and doesn't really have anything to match your H13.
I believe for that statement to be valid, you have to have done all of the other H tests, in the order that the chart gives you, skipping some test as directed based on your results from the previous test. I think that what H13 is really saying is that all the other tests ruled everything else out, so it must be the DCCV. I think that the H13 step is verifying that the wiring to the valve is good.
The Gen II procedure is to verify, in order:
1. Coolant level is correct.
2. There are no coolant leaks.
3. There is no air in the cooling system.
4. Look for DTCs from the climate control.
5. Make sure the heater core is not blocked.
6. Check to see if the climate control (set to 90 degrees) is applying power to the DCCV. If it is not, then the assumption is made that the DCCV is bad. However, this test does not actually test the DCCV.
I believe for that statement to be valid, you have to have done all of the other H tests, in the order that the chart gives you, skipping some test as directed based on your results from the previous test. I think that what H13 is really saying is that all the other tests ruled everything else out, so it must be the DCCV. I think that the H13 step is verifying that the wiring to the valve is good.
The Gen II procedure is to verify, in order:
1. Coolant level is correct.
2. There are no coolant leaks.
3. There is no air in the cooling system.
4. Look for DTCs from the climate control.
5. Make sure the heater core is not blocked.
6. Check to see if the climate control (set to 90 degrees) is applying power to the DCCV. If it is not, then the assumption is made that the DCCV is bad. However, this test does not actually test the DCCV.
tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey Joe
So I contacted the Local Dealership, they will sell me a DCCV at hugely inflated prices, they will not let me check the resistance on a new one, they will let me bring the car in for service and pay $80 for them to check it out...........BS!
So I sent a message to Max at Five Star, maybe he can clue us in on this stuff.
I checked the DATC all 8's, checked the pressure coolant bottle cap, it's holding pressure (not sure how much). No leaks in the coolant system.
Opened the bleeder screw near the thermostat and plenty of pressure there, opened the bleed screw near the coolant bottle, not much pressure there....
all lines from the DCCV to the core are hot. Will let you know of any developments.
core not blocked because I can get heat,,,good heat,,,then nothing,,,or heat on the drivers side and cooler on the passenger side.
air conditioning works fine so I'm assuming the temp sensors are doing ok.
So I contacted the Local Dealership, they will sell me a DCCV at hugely inflated prices, they will not let me check the resistance on a new one, they will let me bring the car in for service and pay $80 for them to check it out...........BS!
So I sent a message to Max at Five Star, maybe he can clue us in on this stuff.
I checked the DATC all 8's, checked the pressure coolant bottle cap, it's holding pressure (not sure how much). No leaks in the coolant system.
Opened the bleeder screw near the thermostat and plenty of pressure there, opened the bleed screw near the coolant bottle, not much pressure there....
all lines from the DCCV to the core are hot. Will let you know of any developments.
core not blocked because I can get heat,,,good heat,,,then nothing,,,or heat on the drivers side and cooler on the passenger side.
air conditioning works fine so I'm assuming the temp sensors are doing ok.
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tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
Max responds
Max at Five Star says a good reading is 10 - 23 ohms.
Now I'm thinking that maybe the DCCV has other problems that are undetectable. My old DCCV as definitely the problem before and had a good reading. So there must be something else about this device, something mechanical that wears out.
Max at Five Star says a good reading is 10 - 23 ohms.
Now I'm thinking that maybe the DCCV has other problems that are undetectable. My old DCCV as definitely the problem before and had a good reading. So there must be something else about this device, something mechanical that wears out.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That is certainly possible, and maybe even probable. Are you willing to experiment? I wonder if you could find a "Y" adapter the right size to just replace the DCCV so that hot coolant could always circulate. You wouldn't want to leave it that way, but If you did, and you had heat (more than you could stand) for a couple of days, you would know that the DCCV is indeed the problem.
XxbmxlsxX
Well-Known LVC Member
OK, sounds like your thermostat is stuck, its a quick fix.
The hot coolant travels thru the DCCV to the heater so if the heater hoses are warm then the DCCV hoses must be warm.
There is a bleed valve next to the degas bottle, open it with a screw driver when the engine it hot, is the coolant hot? watch out! don't burn your fingers.
You can just loosen the screw to let the coolant drip out.
You might also need a new degas bottle cap, maybe its not holding the pressure.
When the DCCV goes bad the usual symptom is that you get one vent blowing hot air and the other blowing cold air. Check both passenger side and driver for a temp difference while running the A/C.
Just throwing some ideas at you.My 01V6 is a major pain when it comes to heating and cooling. Mostly caused by cracking, leaking, air in system and Hydraulic fan failure. I was surprised to find the car will run and not overheat with the fan not working at all.
i agree, thermostat, mine went out did the same thing
00blkV6
LVC Member
so tonight i drove home from work about 5 miles or so plenty long enough to get hot. I opened the bleed valve and cool coolant came out what do you think this could be.. Lines off the dccv on the top to the heater core are cool also. Thanks
jolinc01
Dedicated LVC Member
I did the diagnostic on mine and didn't get all 8's. I got 888 -1888 (or something like that) is that normal? If not where can I find the codes, or what does it mean.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That means everything [electronic diagnostics] passed.
jolinc01
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks joegr. Also, you really seem to know your stuff...glad you're here.