With me launching like that I gained .4 and 1 mph (with a lot of VHT on the track). 97+ is good for a 14.6 at least on this car.
New Track Times
- Thread starter RedHotMark96
- Start date
With me launching like that I gained .4 and 1 mph (with a lot of VHT on the track). 97+ is good for a 14.6 at least on this car.
MediumD
Dedicated LVC Member
This is a big one that I see a lot, even with myself sometimes when I'm not concentrating on what I'm doing :shifty:
Another tip is to stay in the "groove." The groove is the area of track towards the beginning where cars that are faster than ours have laid down rubber and improved the traction of the track surface. It's generally centered in the lane.. If many cars have already run that day, the groove will probably be a bit warmer as well, again leading to better traction.
As for tires, on the rear, get the widest tire you can safely fit on the wheel (as long as it's a good performance tire.) I run 275mm Goodyear F1s on my 17x9 wheels, but if you have 17x7.5s you'll probably be limited to 245s...
If you take XLRVIIIs advice and use the numbers to evaluate changes, don't forget to compensate for weather changes. To get an accurate understanding of what the numbers mean, you'll want to compensate for density altitude changes with an online calculator or the NHRA correction factors. You can find the density altitude by entering weather info into various online calculators, or sometimes the track will have DA info available. If you're lucky like me, the track will be near an airport, and the airport will have a weather station with a phone number that will tell you the DA (DA is pretty important to aviation..)
Very good point.
If you start modding your car in the spring and finish in the summer you could very easily slow down rather than speeding up.
Here in Houston there is a bout .5-.7 difference between "good air" in the spring and fall and "bad air" in the dog days of summer.
There is also about .2-.4 difference between running at Houston in the summer and Dallas in the summer.
Different tracks or even the same track at a different time of year can produce a wide variance in ET's.
Density Altitude/DA as MediumD mentioned is a great tool.
It takes ALL the weather combinations..temp,baro,humidity and turns them into a "single number" for you to use in evaluations.
DA tells a good part of the story and is often overlooked.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
MT THE TRUNK YO!
You may get better results with 1/4 to 1/2 tank of gas.
No trac-lok? Do a 'double burnout' on those street tires and launch off idle.
Do a short 2-3 second burnout then stop and ease forward a couple feet and do ANOTHER short 2-3 second burnout then hustle up to the staging lights and drop the tree asap.
With an open diff and a standard burnout routine, one tire will spin and the other may do nothing at all. Then when you launch, the 'cold' tire will spin off the line. With the double burnout - the other tire will spin on the 2nd burnout since the first tire is 'stickier'. Now if you get up to the line quick, both tires stand a chance of hooking.
MediumD
Dedicated LVC Member
And keep in mind don't burn out longer than maybe 3 seconds, get a street tire too hot and it will turn 'greasy' instead of getting stickier.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
You just want to clean off a street tire, or dry it out if you can't drive around the water box...
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm going to be very interested if I can get off the line without blowing apart the tires after the 4.30 gears....
Yea it's possible, you can't go WOT right off the line though. You need to ease into the throttle off idle. Surprisingly I have been able to get 2.0 60 foot times on street tires in my 95 LSC and 2.1 60 foot times in my 98 LSC using this method without going WOT. Both cars have/had 4.30's.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Nice!
I think some drag radials or maybe cheater slicks will help that out...
I think some drag radials or maybe cheater slicks will help that out...
Rich88LSC
Dedicated LVC Member
LSC
With 4.10s and a 3500 stall converter I can get pretty far into the throttle from a dig and the car will hook on the street but WOT is jst spinning tires and going nowhere fast.
With 4.10s and a 3500 stall converter I can get pretty far into the throttle from a dig and the car will hook on the street but WOT is jst spinning tires and going nowhere fast.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I'll have to see when I get to the track next year...
Right now I have a tune and can spin my tires on the street. The gears will be my next planned mod, and a stall after that... haven't decided on the rpm yet.
Right now I have a tune and can spin my tires on the street. The gears will be my next planned mod, and a stall after that... haven't decided on the rpm yet.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
On the street - the tires make all the difference in the world. Look at the treadwear rating. Anything above 250 or so will be hard as a rock and easy enough to spin on the street with gears and a converter. Compromise a bit on the treadwear and you'd be amazed how they can hook at times. If it really gets bad, step up to some drag radials.