New Starter Not Engaging

nghtshd88

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Finally got around to putting in my new OEM remanufactured starter. Old one got stuck engaged and burnt up. I was still able to start the car fine with it though to move it.

Go to put the new one in and all I hear is a click metal pop from it and nothing meaning nothing remotely turns. Take it back out to be tested locally and the starter is fine nothing wrong.

Now Im wondering what is wrong being the starter is fine and it has power and worked with the original starter but not this one. I can only think something seized up or the the starter just doesnt work when under load of the flywheel? Going to have the battery tested anyway despite it being fairly new and no signs of it being low. Maybe key switch? Again if the old one still worked I cant see why this one wont after being tested. All cables/nuts are tight and secure.
 
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Edit: I see the other fuses now. All look fine, swapped them all to see. Replaced the starter.

No difference. Each time time I hook the battery back up I hear the starter kick the flywheel once and then nothing after that. It seems theres power going to it but just wont engage.
 
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So you can hear it grab the flywheel but nothing hmm could be a weak battery to faulty starter brushes or solenoid since it's reman?.
Did you try putting straight voltage to the starter itself or are you saying when you connect the battery in the car it kicks?

Check the wires that connect to your starter solenoid and tighten them.
I would put straight power to it and tap on it with a mallet
 
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Why not run the simple tests with the starter in the car first to see where things stand?

A4 CHECK THE STARTER MOTOR GROUND
  • Measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the starter motor case.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0002697.gif~gen~ref.gif
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A5 .

No
CLEAN the starter motor mounting flange and make sure the starter motor is correctly mounted. TEST the system for normal operation.
A5 CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE STARTER MOTOR
  • Measure the voltage between the starter motor B-terminal and ground.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0002698.gif~gen~ref.gif
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A6 .

No
REPAIR circuit 30-BB10 (RD). TEST the system for normal operation.
A6 CHECK THE STARTER MOTOR B-TERMINAL
  • Connect a fused jumper wire to the B-terminal of the starter motor. Momentarily connect the other lead of the jumper wire to the starter motor S-terminal.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0002699.gif~gen~ref.gif
  • Did the starter motor engage and the engine crank?
 
Yes, having the battery checked soon and getting the voltage meter out after..

This link is dead. How do you run the instrument cluster self test? Searched and found it no where:

instrument cluster self-test. Refer to Section 413-00

Can I just pull that data using forscan?

Being I replaced it twice now I doubt the terminals are an issue.. They looked fine. Cleaned anyway and tightened them. Even the battery terminals are fine and battery shows no issue. I swapped all 3 fuses and the relay and no difference. Again I hear it kick only the first time after battery is reconnected. After that its silent.

The car hasnt moved so either my luck a wire broke in that time or the ignition switch went..

I wouldnt be surprised if its the switch that broke my original starter. Before it got stuck engaged I heard it cut in and out very fast as if I let go of the key and tried to restart very fast.

Saw one on eBay with the key for $40. Doesn't look like they make them anymore new..

Local locksmith who recalls the LS said it is easier to pair the current master key I have with a new/used ignition. I asked if that would work with PATS or whatever he said it would. Said he has whatever ancient equipment for the LS key/ignition. I assume thats true. I think I read on here that in order to make a new GEN2 master key only the dealer is able to code the key with whatever equipment they or the locksmtih have.
 
Yes, having the battery checked soon and getting the voltage meter out after..

This link is dead. How do you run the instrument cluster self test? Searched and found it no where:

instrument cluster self-test. Refer to Section 413-00

Can I just pull that data using forscan?

Being I replaced it twice now I doubt the terminals are an issue.. They looked fine. Cleaned anyway and tightened them. Even the battery terminals are fine and battery shows no issue. I swapped all 3 fuses and the relay and no difference. Again I hear it kick only the first time after battery is reconnected. After that its silent.

The car hasnt moved so either my luck a wire broke in that time or the ignition switch went..

I wouldnt be surprised if its the switch that broke my original starter. Before it got stuck engaged I heard it cut in and out very fast as if I let go of the key and tried to restart very fast.

Saw one on eBay with the key for $40. Doesn't look like they make them anymore new..

Local locksmith who recalls the LS said it is easier to pair the current master key I have with a new/used ignition. I asked if that would work with PATS or whatever he said it would. Said he has whatever ancient equipment for the LS key/ignition. I assume thats true. I think I read on here that in order to make a new GEN2 master key only the dealer is able to code the key with whatever equipment they or the locksmtih have.
Put direct voltage on the starter, if it still doesn't turn the motor the starter is bad.. that will tell you if its the ignition switch but since it stuck it most likely is bad.

I remember this guy he had a 07civic and starter stopped working it was because those starters have no ground and it grounds where the starter mounts to and corrosion always mess this up.. easy fix ran a ground to one of the bolt haha.. probably alot of cars built like that
Not sure about the ls but I think they were smart and there is a ground wire that goes to the starter ?
 
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Here's the link you asked about,
Yes, you can use Forscan.
I'd go straight to the test page I posted, since that is where things have been disturbed.
I suspect that those tests will pass and you will be on the next page.
 
Put direct voltage on the starter, if it still doesn't turn the motor the starter is bad.. that will tell you if its the ignition switch but since it stuck it most likely is bad.

I remember this guy he had a 07civic and starter stopped working it was because those starters have no ground and it grounds where the starter mounts to and corrosion always mess this up.. easy fix ran a ground to one of the bolt haha.. probably alot of cars built like that
Not sure about the ls but I think they were smart and there is a ground wire that goes to the starter ?
The LS has 3 cables and one being ground..

Shop tested new starter and it works with power. Old one was stuck engaged but ignition worked.

Charged battery to 100% and no I don't here it kick at all.

All bolts are clean and tight.
Here's the link you asked about,
Yes, you can use Forscan.
I'd go straight to the test page I posted, since that is where things have been disturbed.
I suspect that those tests will pass and you will be on the next page.
Most likely. Will start checking voltage at the starter and grounds.. Dont have a jumper fuse on hand though to make it run.

Really betting the ignition went but dont see how it could just totally break when not in use.
 
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Why a fuse just take the battery out the trunk put it near the starter and get ur booster cables and put it on the starter, just disconnect it from the car wires
 
Finally got around to putting in my new OEM remanufactured starter. Old one got stuck engaged and burnt up. I was still able to start the car fine with it though to move it.

Go to put the new one in and all I hear is a click metal pop from it and nothing meaning nothing remotely turns. Take it back out to be tested locally and the starter is fine nothing wrong.

Now Im wondering what is wrong being the starter is fine and it has power and worked with the original starter but not this one. I can only think something seized up or the the starter just doesnt work when under load of the flywheel? Going to have the battery tested anyway despite it being fairly new and no signs of it being low. Maybe key switch? Again if the old one still worked I cant see why this one wont after being tested. All cables/nuts are tight and secure.
Starters are good. Its not the starters. Suspect something stoped the old starter and caused its burnout. Leads me to guess its in the engine not always rotating and making the starter unable to rotate the engine thus causing overloaded starter to overheat and fail. The new one is acting like the 1st sarter. Disconnecrt the coil to plus wire for safety. Don't want the car to start Can you get a socket on the engine and try turning it with a breaker bar to see if it is easily turning. ? Might have to remove or loosen plugs to check it turning. I have not had real starter problem like your. In virgina beach while on vacation, my 1996 mark 8 starter quit. I had 3 aaa and it was towed and replaced to get me out of a out of breakdown in Virgina beach as I am from Ohio. The starter cost was $420 range towing, labor and starter I gladly paid. You could try getting car up safely on stands and trying to rotate flywheel by the teeth . If it moves well , I cannot guess at what else is jaming it up. You might have to get it to a shop on a lift to get the problem solved. Wish I could offer more ideas.
 
Starters are good. Its not the starters. Suspect something stoped the old starter and caused its burnout. Can you get a socket on the engine and try turning it with a breaker bar to see if it is easily turning.
Old starter got stuck engaged. I thought about doing that earlier but the starter itself just isnt running.
 
Why a fuse just take the battery out the trunk put it near the starter and get ur booster cables and put it on the starter, just disconnect it from the car wires
And that would do nothing to establish what his problem is. He needs to do some systematic, proper trouble shooting.
 
Don't do anything stupid with it and you will be fine.


ROFL !!! Could you be any more blunt Joe?

@88. Try pulling the serp belt and put a strap wrench on the crank pulley... and make sure the engine rotates freely.

If it does... then try your jumper wire... but be careful where you touch it to. Put a fuse inline in the jumper wire... just in case.
 
I like to get corrected on here it I like to learn lol but anyways. when my ignition switch went bad on my truck I saved a headache by putting a simple temporary switch for the starter.
 
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Old starter got stuck engaged. I thought about doing that earlier but the starter itself just isnt running.
I understand the engine was running before the starter problem The engine would be turning over . I don't see how the motor was stoping the starter as I guessed in another post. Piut another starter in and get the car up safely high. Get under car while someone turns it over. so you can get an idea of whats doing it.
 
Piut another starter in and get the car up safely high. Get under car while someone turns it over.

That's the problem. He already put a new starter in... and it won't turn over.

That's why I suggested to remove the serpentine belt and put a strap wrench on the crank pulley. I want to know if the engine is tied up. If not... then it's back to testing the starter and related wiring. Keep it simple stupid... and start with the basics. Stranger things have happened.
 
I had a similar problem just this month when I replaced my starter. Check the wire connection on the starter solenoid and make sure you didn't put in on backwards. If you put it on backwards, that little metal tab will be sticking out. I put mine on backwards and that metal tab was hitting the main starter connection which keep blowing a a 30 amp fuse under the hood every time I tried to start it. Lesson learned don't try and change a starter when you sick (lol).
 
Solved: Lower mounting stud bolt was rusted on the tip allowing the outer bolt holding the ground cable to get hung up just a hair before seating properly so not a "complete" ground.

Had to tighten the bolt so hard to get it seated with a ratching wrench that the stud was turning and I thought I might snap the the stud in the bellhousing. Only other option next time is new wires/stud.
 

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