new owner / 2000 ls

Should see me when I don't get any food every 4hrs. Not a pretty sight.
 
only matter of time, I predict very soon. sorry.
 
oh i don't doubt once texas summer hits, i'll be starting to have to replace
the cooling system, so i'm prepared :)
 
elephantrider said:
...and the degas bottle isnt leaking yet, so leaving it alone :)
Click to expand...

Either its been replaced in the last few years (a reasonable possibility), or it is leaking (but probably not enough for you to notice yet).
 
doesnt look to be replaced - i did check it with my mechanics mirror after
it got to op temp, and didnt see any signs of leakage, but again.. based
on what i've read on here it is in fact, a matter of time.

its fine, i didn't buy this car expecting NOT to have to do any work on it,
so i'm good with it. i have the skills, shop, and tools to do basically anything
to it as far as r&r wise...

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRSEQv02YiQgBmdGZW3LGwHqgE1FPsfcHvd5QxvjUBsRgmb0NuM4A.jpg
 
+1 ^,
I haven't paid anyone to turn a wrench for me in many years. I don't have a shop, need more metric tools and I'd like to have air tools 'cause my wrenchin' is like slow motion compared to air. Need a manual too, first thing. Bought this with intentions of working on it, lowering, bigger brakes, suspension and audio. Hopefully not many "must do immediately" jobs come up.
 
Common for these degas bottles to already have developed fractures in the form of hairline cracks that when at just the right temperature will either allow air in or coolant out.


Once the system loses it's pressure via cracks (any in the plastic plumbing) it's known to start with losing of interior cabin heat, overheating or simply pissing coolant directly behind the drivers front wheel.

Very hard to see those cracks as they all form on the back side of the bottle up against the firewall, near impossible to see from the front side. Never tends to crack in the front of the bottle, always along the backside firewall. Cracks will hold pressure for a while but eventually she can hold no more.


attachment.jpg


attachment.jpg



Re&Re - OEM Degas Bottle - GEN 1 V8



I drove with mine for a good month, topping up the level in the degas bottle twice over, while at the same time, the no heat at idle and uneven heat from either vents issues. Could not spot/find a leak anywhere, then suddenly one day noticed it was starting to drip coolant directly onto the ground behind the drivers front wheel.

NEVER did overheat once but on the last night drove home without any cabin heat. Air in system, defective Aux coolant flow pump and DCCV.



At that point I had already managed to gather all the parts involved with the exception of the degas bottle. Had to rush around and do some switching on the bottle. The Tasca ordered bottle eventually made it, returned "it" to the local dealership for full expensive Canadian refund, no restocking fees, Ha!




PS: just to prove my OCD, I cleaned that cracked degas bottle, inside out before taking pictures of it, sick huh!
depressed.gif
 
Rick C. said:
.... Hopefully not many "must do immediately" jobs come up.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had high hopes also!
hate to disappoint ya BUT ... we both own a 14yr old car, it's gonna happen! just trust me on this one!


Mine turns 14 this January 31st, yeah!

WIXOM PLANT ~ January 31, 2001 ~ Paint Code: TS ~ Trim Code: 4W
 
Mine was hatched on 12/08/00, not goin' out right now to check paint and trim codes, got that frost $#!+ all over everything, and I ain't goin' out and ya can't make me do it.
I figgered things were gonna go wrong, always drove older vehicles and my diesel was certainly a different animal, thank God for forums.
I have some minor rattlin' in the front, on rough roads, sounds like sway bar bushings. Brakes are at about 40-50% left, when I replace them I'll do the rest, want to lower it about 1" without stiffening the suspension, so I'll cut the springs and stay with stock shocks.
Is there an aftermarket kit for all the bushings, rod ends and ball joints? I got a kit from Performance Suspension Engineering for a mustang years ago. They used a polygraphite material for the bushings, they were about as stiff as the urethane but didn't squeek. I tried to look up PSE and couldn't find 'em.
 
The norm is to just fetch individual parts from some/several key sources. <shrugs>
Don't fall for them Deutsche Parts though, bad rep. (from what I've read)
 
mine shows fed 00' build date, so mine is old, too !

bigrig - ordered the tstat on your link so i'll have it.
 
Yup, when you do start to dig into the LS plumbing, take notice of the brown pitting on the inside of the plastics, either already or is beginning to deteriorate. We've seen some pics on here of members that got their hoses off only to discover it's all crumpling apart at the ends. Mostly the outlet tube. It's also a known issue on some of the older 1st GEN to see the fill cap at the thermostat housing not coming off, if it does many have known to split the rest of the housing. The Alloy JAG stat housing is a good bet as far as an upgrade goes, cheaper, better looking and most importantly, durable compared to plastic.

Mine turned into a 2 day ordeal when I did my LS cooling system refresh, it was top to bottom, replacing Auxiliary flow pump, DCCV, Degas bottle, Tstat housing, thermostat, gaskets, outlet pipe and a complete coolant refill.

Takes me a while, get distracted easily, with nearby parts that need cleaning, sandblasting, painting, replacing.

fun fun fun.
 
.....so, got the alignment done, and everything went smooth as butter, except
the fact that the tc light wont clear, and still blinks. that means i either got a
bad hub, or i need to disconnect the battery to reset the whole car - i'm thinking
it may be the latter, due to i'm having the low fuel warning come on, even with
over half a tank...

i think what may have happened is that we let the battery drain and go dead while
we were doing the suspension work, and we just used a jump box to get the car
started.. going to try to disconnect 1st before i tear back into the front suspension
to replace the hubs AGAIN lol ah, cars.... gotta love em.
 
elephantrider said:
... i'm having the low fuel warning come on, even with over half a tank...
Click to expand...

Gauge misreading? Bang the bottom on both sides, of the saddle bag plastic fuel tank. No tools needed, she stuck!
 
dont think the gauge is mis reading - simply due to when i fill up, the level goes
to full. as i drive, obviously it goes down, anything under 3/4 tank, i get the low
fuel level..

so, lemme ask - is the low fuel digital warning, also on the tank sending unit, or is
that a calculation of the ecm or something..?

i'll check my service manual as well when i get home, so will see....
 
V8 or V6?
On the V8, it's a low range warning (as in you have 50 or fewer miles before you run out of gasoline).
In any event, it is calculated off of the readings of the two fuel floats, same as the fuel gauge. There's no extra sensor.
 
v8 of course.

i just disconnected the battery and reconnected it. that fixed the
digital fuel reading. did not fix the blinking tc light.. hoping a
drive cycle or two will fix it... if not, then new hubs again, it is.
 
Why not get the trouble codes read so that you know where to look for the problem, instead of throwing parts at it?
Do you have traction control or AdvanceTrac? Traction control doesn't care about the front wheels. AdvanceTrac does, but it also cares about yaw and steering angle.
 
elephantrider said:
dont think the gauge is mis reading ...
Click to expand...


Mine sat on stands for nearly a year, stabilizer in the fuel on a full tank, idling every second weekend, one day I noticed it was missing a lot of fuel.

Some reason, the gauge went back up to near full when I banged on the bottom of the tanks.

I have no idea, hasn't done it since. Course it's off the stand now and out'bout a bit here and there. (road slush depending)
 
joe - going that route before i tear it back down for new hubs.
will see where the values are not where they should be and try
to narrow it down from there.

the car does have advancedtrac - no abs codes thrown, just the
tc light blinking.
 
elephantrider said:
...
the car does have advancedtrac - no abs codes thrown, just the
tc light blinking.
Click to expand...

1. There are codes. Your code reader just can't get them.
2. That's the AdvanceTrac light then (it comes on for more than just rear wheel spin).

If you have AdvanceTrac, the AdvanceTrac light is on or flashing, and the ABS light is not on, then it's 95% certain that it isn't a wheel speed sensor problem.
 
joegr said:
1. There are codes. Your code reader just can't get them.
2. That's the AdvanceTrac light then (it comes on for more than just rear wheel spin).

If you have AdvanceTrac, the AdvanceTrac light is on or flashing, and the ABS light is not on, then it's 95% certain that it isn't a wheel speed sensor problem.
Click to expand...

i have a reader that reads abs / track codes. need to go to the shop to pull them.
aware of the advancetrac.
when we finished the job, there were no abs codes, and i figured maybe it just needed
a drive cycle - that is a no go.

big assumption here, but my thinking is that if no abs codes, and only a tc code,
then its NOT a bad hub... more than likely a steering sensor..?

crazy that some parts take a dump when your replacing other parts, but i've seen
it happen on more than a few occasions.
 
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