New LS Owner with a Bevy of Repairs

I bought import direct coils. The Motorcraft 50% markup was out of my range. The plugs were gapped correctly.

Seems that the IAC can be a problem... what do you think?

IAC can only cause problems at idle. Cheap coils can cause problems all the time. Maybe you couldn't afford the Motorcraft coils, but the ones you did buy was just like burning the money that you did have.
 
Turned out to be the boot of the pcv hose. There was a 1" tear in it.

What is so bad about the Dorman bottles? Is it just that you need to buy a different cap to go with it? There is so much conflicting info. Thanks again, you guys are awesome!
 
Turned out to be the boot of the pcv hose. There was a 1" tear in it.

What is so bad about the Dorman bottles? Is it just that you need to buy a different cap to go with it? There is so much conflicting info. Thanks again, you guys are awesome!

It's inferior to the Motorcraft part in every manufacturing respect.
 
Gotcha. Seemed strange to me that we'd want to replace an oem part when we already know it has a critical fault.

I wouldn't call it a critical fault. I would say that plastic can only handle so many pressurized hot/cold cycles. Region also has an affect.
 
That makes sense. Thanks. Have any suggestions for a good place to buy one?

Got mine at the dealer for around $150. From personal experience I can tell you the dorman bottle sucks. I had put one in prior to joining this forum and had to replace it after less than a years use. And I do not drive my LS daily.
 
The dealer near me is actually pretty nice believe it or not. They often give me discounts on the parts (don't know if this is common practice or not) and the stuff comes out to be fair market value instead of over-inflated. Another good thing is they are open late, will deliver parts to the local shop near me and I can pick them up, etc.
 
Now that it is cold, a total lack of heat has revealed itself. I ran DATC self-diagnostics that came out clean. I'm just trying to figure out if it is the DCCV or air in the system. I bled the system a while ago, and checked again to make sure (I get a strong warm spray from the heater bleed valve). I didn't replace the degas bottle; It turned out that the leak was actually just from a broken outlet on the upper radiator hose assembly. After replacing that, I don't lose any more coolant. Could I still have an air issue with the old degas bottle, or is it most likely the DCCV?

Edit: Oh, I unplugged the DCCV, and didn't notice either of the upper hoses getting warm. Which, from what I understand should happen if the DCCV is bad.
 
Is the DCCV something that I can get from a salvage yard, or should it be a new purchase only?

Why buy a wear item used????? Would you buy used tires? Brake pads? A radiator? Water pump? Alternator? Battery?
 
Is the DCCV something that I can get from a salvage yard, or should it be a new purchase only?
I'm not going to lie, very few things on this car should be replaced with salvage yard parts

to expand on that a little more, EVERY SINGLE problem you are having happen to a high percentage of LS's (some of them can almost be expected to fail on every LS sooner or later), all of these parts that you would be buying from a JY car will probably be failed already or will fail soon.



best advise to save money, always buy new parts, and always buy OEM parts. as there is no aftermarket for this car, there are next to no "upgraded parts" available, most of what is made is cheap crap parts that will fail in a fraction of the time the OEM ones will.
 
rockauto.com has them and fordpartsonline. the dccv can fail in stuck open or stuck closed. but most of the time it cuts out the ac when it fails.
 
rockauto.com has them and fordpartsonline. the dccv can fail in stuck open or stuck closed. but most of the time it cuts out the ac when it fails.

My AC has worked fine, so hopefully a new thermostat helps. I tried rockauto by part number with no luck, I'll look again if the thermostat doesn't fix it. Thanks
 

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