New LS, Brakes Suck?!

[nghtshd88]

I just picked up an 04 white pearl v6 LS the other day and I must say it is a nice car! Only things it needs is a rear axle seal and the oil pan seal.

BUT- maybe its me but the brakes in this car absolutely suck:|

If I were to slam on the brakes the car will roll to a slow stop and not jerk to a stop. Its sort of feels like if you tried to stop a car using the E-brake.

The calipers are all connecting and the rotors are in great shape and the pads have about 75% on them. The fluid was also recently changed.

Is it possible the booster is bad?

I would think for a car like this the brakes would surely be a lot better. Its not bad but surely not what Id expect or need if I had to jam on the brakes.

 

[G-RELL]

You def have a fault in your system somewhere.... Even a stock setup performs pretty well

 

[M4rk]

Get it inspected ASAP.

Meanwhile, from the service manual regarding the brake booster:

Brake Booster

Check the hydraulic brake system for leaks or insufficient fluid.

With the transmission in NEUTRAL, stop the engine and apply the parking brake control. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum in the system.

Apply the brake pedal and hold it in the applied position. Start the engine. If the vacuum system is operating, the brake pedal tends to move downward under constant foot pressure.

If downward movement of the brake pedal is felt, the brake booster is functioning. If no downward movement of the brake pedal is felt, install a new brake booster.

Operate the engine a minimum of 10 seconds at fast idle. Stop the engine, and let the vehicle stand for 10 minutes. Then apply the brake pedal with approximately 89 N (20 lb) of force. The brake pedal feel should be the same as that noted with the engine operating. If the brake pedal feels hard (no power assist), install a new brake booster vacuum hose assembly and retest. If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to remove air. Refer to Brake System Bleeding in this section.

 

[BlackLS06]

Replace pads and rotors is all i can tell you. The LS is a heavy car but when the brakes are working right, it does stop very well.

 

[JMT03LSV8]

I know when I bought my '03 2 years ago, I wasn't overly impressed with the brakes. Just seemed like it took a lot of pedal pressure to stop. Had the front brakes done about a month after I bought it, new rotors & ceramic pads. Knowing my mechanic, probably car quest parts. I think it was $256 for parts and labor. Thing stops perfect every time, not a lot of pedal pressure required for quick stops. I've put about 20k on it since and no noticable difference AND no brake dust on the front wheels.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

My '03 got hard to stop once. A few of the caliper slides were frozen, so the caliper was pressing on one side of the rotor. It seems the boots swell and allow water into the slide if regular grease is used. I changed the slides pins and boots, lubed with silicone grease, and replaced the pads. The car has stopped fine since.

 

[1LoudLS]

dude, your brakes are broke! a stock V6 should be able to stop so hard that any thing you have sitting on the rear shelf, should be able to hit you when it flies into the front seat!

 

[scjmc]

...agree with above posts. The brakes on the LS are a good setup. They can be made better with small upgrades, but stopping performance is great stock.

 

[JMT03LSV8]

dude, your brakes are broke! a stock V6 should be able to stop so hard that any thing you have sitting on the rear shelf, should be able to hit you when it flies into the front seat!

That reminds me...I had to stop quick the other day and my drivers side back seat back came open and there isn't anything in my trunk!

 

[dNyce LS]

That reminds me...I had to stop quick the other day and my drivers side back seat back came open and there isn't anything in my trunk!

Lol, my back seat did that once when i did a hard stop. Me and my son looked at the seat like 'wtf'. I guess it didnt latch on properly

 

[JMT03LSV8]

Lol, my back seat did that once when i did a hard stop. Me and my son looked at the seat like 'wtf'. I guess it didnt latch on properly

I need to look at mine. Neither side was latched. I thought all flip down seats latched.

 

[joegr]

I need to look at mine. Neither side was latched. I thought all flip down seats latched.

They latch. On both on mine, you have to slam them back with some force to latch them. You should be able to pull on them as hard as you like after that and they won't come down.

There was a TSB early on about latch adjustment.

 

[JMT03LSV8]

They latch. On both on mine, you have to slam them back with some force to latch them. You should be able to pull on them as hard as you like after that and they won't come down.

There was a TSB early on about latch adjustment.

I may not have slammed them back hard enough. Thanx for the info sir.

 

[nghtshd88]

...agree with above posts. The brakes on the LS are a good setup. They can be made better with small upgrades, but stopping performance is great stock.

That reminds me the rear has Drilled Rotors.. Dont think that makes a difference though because the front is what stops it.

What is a good upgrade over the stock pads? Im going to cut the rotors but I want a set of as good as stock if not better but wont give me a ton of dust and noise..

Will bleed it too to be sure but ya I figured something was up.. I can stop the car but when going into my mustang or accord I can get the car to skid if I wanted it too. This one will just roll to a stop..


BTW when you put this car in drive are you suppose to feel the REAR suck down on itself?

It feels as if someone threw a couple sand bags in it when I put it in drive. I know its a comfy ride but at 85k maybe I should put some new struts and shocks..

 

[scjmc]

I like the NAPA premium ceramix pads. I put them on my 02 at 40K miles +- and were still in great condition when I traded the car in at 140K. Thats with no noise and no dust for 5 years. Some members have done the brake motive upgrade from ebay..... Ceramic pads and new rotors in the 200s range. Most are happy with that. SS brake lines are still avilable I think.

 

[LS4me]

That reminds me the rear has Drilled Rotors.. Dont think that makes a difference though because the front is what stops it.


Will bleed it too to be sure but ya I figured something was up.. I can stop the car but when going into my mustang or accord I can get the car to skid if I wanted it too. This one will just roll to a stop..


BTW when you put this car in drive are you suppose to feel the REAR suck down on itself?

It feels as if someone threw a couple sand bags in it when I put it in drive. I know its a comfy ride but at 85k maybe I should put some new struts and shocks..

The rear also has plenty of stopping force; that's why the rear discs are vented.

You shouldn't be able to make an ABS equipped car to skid. Unless the ABS has failed.......

Yep.

 

[SteveSC]

I suspect your discs are glazed and/or rusted. They should be shiny. If they are of a darker colour it means they have a glazing on them. Also rust could be a factor. Rust build up inhibits both brake cooling and proper friction for the pads. Check for a lip on the disc as well, that means the disc has worn down enought to be thinner. The lip also prevents the pads from full contact of the discs. You could try just machining the discs but if you have a lip on the discs they most likely are too thin to be machined. Feel free to post a picture of your discs. Sometimes the pads can also have issues of being cracked or glazed as well.

 

[nghtshd88]

I suspect your discs are glazed and/or rusted. They should be shiny. If they are of a darker colour it means they have a glazing on them. Also rust could be a factor. Rust build up inhibits both brake cooling and proper friction for the pads. Check for a lip on the disc as well, that means the disc has worn down enought to be thinner. The lip also prevents the pads from full contact of the discs. You could try just machining the discs but if you have a lip on the discs they most likely are too thin to be machined. Feel free to post a picture of your discs. Sometimes the pads can also have issues of being cracked or glazed as well.

I have zero rust on them.

I thought rear discs were aftermarket and didnt know they were suppose to be drilled, but in that case the rear discs are BLACK so I assume they're really glazed?

The fronts and rears though have zero lip and aren't warped at all though. Although there is some scarring on the front driver rotor from the pad for some reason.

Going to cut them and get some decent pads. I put duralast on my accord and actually they are amazing but VERY dusty!