New battery ground

NoLimit95

NoLimit95

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I am thinking of getting this to have additional grounding to the engine block or frame or where ever is best. My ground wire is clean but what actually holds the wire is a little on the thin side and old. I have a lot of 4 gauge ground wire coming too. Any oppose to this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400084234545&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Found one cheaper lol

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-BTPN3-Positive-Negative-Battery-Terminal-Clamp_W0QQitemZ360205085275QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dde56a5b
pictures_new.php

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=3883&picture_id=82820&source=ebay#
 
Go for it I have a set of those same Kicker terminals on my car (your first link.) They seem to be working good so far...
Best bet is bigger ground from battery to frame and batt to engine. I ran 1/0ga wires from the battery to these spots.
You can do the positive too but make sure anything you add is fused. I added a fused 4ga wire from the battery to the alt. in addition to the factory stuff...
 
Icarus said:
Go for it I have a set of those same Kicker terminals on my car (your first link.) They seem to be working good so far...
Best bet is bigger ground from battery to frame and batt to engine. I ran 1/0ga wires from the battery to these spots.
You can do the positive too but make sure anything you add is fused. I added a fused 4ga wire from the battery to the alt. in addition to the factory stuff...
Click to expand...


Just bought and I mean 10 minutes ago these three things.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130341830448&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT <--For Stereo

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310180533455&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT <--For Stereo

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170402727102&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I got so much crap coming now, I don't know who's shipping what and when what is coming. I do know that my 2 gauge wire is already in the mail. The rest will be sent out Monday I guess. I went ahead and got the 2 deal instead of just one. I want both post to look the same lol.
 
I used to have a 0 gauge ground wire for my 95. I wish I would have taken it out when I sold the car, That thing was like $45
 
k9t8m said:
I used to have a 0 gauge ground wire for my 95. I wish I would have taken it out when I sold the car, That thing was like $45
Click to expand...

I didn't know what I was getting into when I started buying all this stuff and believe me, if and when I do sell, all of this wire and whatever else I just bought WILL be coming out. I got addicted to ebay yesterday and the day before. I feel batter now. :D
 
I'll be redoing my cables soon I'll show you some real cable ends...

First off I wouldn't use ends that are meant for either positive OR negative... they fit one side too loose and the other too tightly... proper ends are meant for their proper terminal...

http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Battery-Terminals/p_14265.a_1

I still have stock cable with $2 ends... but they will be one of the first things I do this coming spring :)
 
Not real sure I follow the meaning of one end being made for the other. I clicked the link you left and yes, they look to be good terminals but at the same time, they wouldn't benefit me because of stereo purposes. I need various outputs on each terminal. The ground, not so much but I want to make sure I have a good ground and not just the one given.

When I check your link, I see " 909115 - Straight Barrel Battery Terminal, 4 Ga, Pos. & Neg.

It's the same end KK but much better than stock. The stock ends suck big time. My positive was changed to a various output back in 05 but I still have the super thin negative. My post are the same size on my battery and the ends I have coming can be opened to fit all the way down and then tightened with the allen wrench. When connections are made, they can then be covered.
 
Get an end twice as big and crim both your cables into it...

The thing I don't like about those ends is they don't make a good connection IMO, they don't allow you to seal the cable to protect the cable from corrosion, and they are universal...

Sorry for not putting up both link, that is just the starter page for the cable ends...

http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Battery-Terminals/p_14265.h_792479.a_1.t_1

http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Battery-Terminals/p_14265.h_792485.a_1.t_1
 
They have a sleeve for the negative, kk. They do fit very snug and tightly on the terminal and won't move unlike the soft metal ones you linked to. I agree to an extend with the corrosion part, but if you use some spray made for it (battery terminals) or even goop any exposed part/wire with some dielectric grease when done it will last...
I ran this same kind of setup (same style terminals) on my other Linc I had for years with no issues and it went through he$$ and back up north with a ton of salt etc. I also did preventative maintence and didn't let it go to crap too mind you and cleaned them once-twice a year, but we all do preventative maintenence on our cars right?! ;)
 
Now I see what you're saying, I think lol. Corrosion must be something that depends on where you live, not really sure but I have had 3 different batteries in mine and the one I have now is an Energizer 1000 CA but with all 3, I have never had any corrosion problem at all. Used to have a 99 Mitsubishi Mirage and no corrosion problem with that one. Must be weather related or something. I'll have to learn something new today and check that out. I have seen corrosion on batteries here in AL., don't get me wrong but it looked like they were from :q:q:q:qty ends and batteries.

Those ends you're showing me still look universal :D

EDIT:Answer to the cause of corrosion - The sulfuric acid used in batteries produces hydrogen gas, which is the primary factor behind the corrosion process that naturally occurs on your battery cables. That is because when your vehicle and battery are operating, very small amounts of gas are released through the vent cap. When released, these fumes naturally combine with the heat, dirt and humidity in the air, plus other active agents under your hood, like grease, oil and coolant, to form corrosion on your battery cables and terminals.
 
I started to read all this but then my ADHD kicked in.

I steer away from different metal types on the power block. Gog to gold is the best with silver to silver trailing. A gold plated set screw on a silver plated box will add resistance. Since the battery terminal is lead a lead/copper clamp with the wire soldiered on to it will give the lowest resistance in a cars electrical system.

Now lead/copper terminals are ugly and dont offer mulitple outputs. Sure you can stack ring terminals but you are defeating the low resistance by reducing contact area over multiple points. So when you need to have multiple cables on a single terminal then a gold distribution block is best followed by a silver block. You can use the block you bought but will lose about .15 volts due to resistance. May not sound like much but on a non regulated amplifier that is rated for 1000 watts then that could be a 50 watt resriction.
 
OK, I'm going from this

http://www.darvex.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/09BTPN3LT.jpg

and using this for wire

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170377356111&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

within 12 to 15 inches of the terminal, I'll have this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310180533455&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

with this fuse inside that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130341830448&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

and then going into the trunk to meet up with this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320327939373

and then to the caps and from them to the amps.

The other terminal will be used for multiple grounding points to various solid steel locations using 2 or 4 gauge wire. Stupid spending but it's bought and coming so, I gotta use it. ;)
 
I wasn't fond of the gold set screws in the nickel plated everything else terminals either Laser, but these Kicker ones seemed to be the best choice for terminals that I could find with multiple outlets and seem to be good quality.

What would you recommend Laser?
Even going from a single large wire to a distro box would present the same problems, our way just puts the connections at the battery though (mind you, we could at least protect it more so that is a plus ;) )
 
I'm going with everything you see above in the links because it's coming. Somewhere down the line of wiring it changes from lead to gold plated or platinum ect. May as well start at the battery with it and keep it the same from there throughout.

If no stereo was involved, yes, I would go with 2 ugly terminals and find some rubber covers to hide them but I need multiple outputs.
 
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