Need Help!!!

bearsfan39

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ok so for a couple weeks now, every time i go to start my car it took about 2-3 times to try to turn it over, each time i would get Check AdvanceTrac and Gear Select Data Error, Saturday i went to leave for work and it took about six tries at turning it over until the battery died completely, and the same thing happened Sunday when i was leaving work, each time i had to be jumped for the car to start and still getting Check Advancetrac and Gear Select Data Error, well today i moved my car out of the driveway for my mom to leave and it started after the second attempt (still getting the errors)

Now tonight when i went to leave for school it wouldn't start at all and still will not start, any suggestions, maybe fuel pump?

Oh also a few times i went to step on the gas and when i actually would step on the actual pedal, the RPM's would drop real low and the car would almost stall
 
Sounds like a weak battery.

I would replace the battery if youre still on the original motorcraft. If its been replaced, i would pick up a cheap trickle charger from walmart and see how it holds a charge.

My only other guess would be a bad alternator. But the vehicle can start doing all kinds of crazy things with the electronics when either are bad.
 
It may be both at this point, alternator and battery.
 
maybe more

Maybe all three, alternator battery and fuel pump. both my alt and fuel pump went at the same time!
 
thanks, i might do all three, i have to go downtown chicago tomorrow and i have no car, where is the best place to get a battery?
 
For these cars i would suggest a lincoln or ford dealer.

Since the battery is in the trunk, it has to be vented and the stock motorcraft battery is specialy made for this. Its also a pretty beefy battery as well.
 
yea, i just called the closest one to me and they only have the 650 not the 750
 
Its only reserve power.

If you never run your cars accessories with the power off i wouldint worry about it. But its always good have some extra juice.
 
ok i called a different dealer, they told me they switched all batteries to the 750 and no longer carry the 650

oh and for the exact same price, i would rather get the 750
 
UPDATE:

Put the new battery in tonight, it started up fine so we'll see what happens
 
alright, went to start the car today it doesn't start, so i guess i'll move on to the alternator
 
alright, went to start the car today it doesn't start, so i guess i'll move on to the alternator

If you don't have one, get a digital multi-meter. Measure the battery voltage with the car running, it should be about 14.5 volts. If it is less than 13.8 volts, then it's probably the alternator.
 
alright, went to start the car today it doesn't start, so i guess i'll move on to the alternator

wait a minute, did it crank at all, or did it just do nothing when the key was turned. replacing the alternator shouldnt make any difference with starting the car, just charging the battery while the car is running.
 
make sure no lights or anything are staying on when the vehicle is off.
 
If you don't have one, get a digital multi-meter. Measure the battery voltage with the car running, it should be about 14.5 volts. If it is less than 13.8 volts, then it's probably the alternator.
i have a multimeter, my radar detector shows the voltage, and it shows 14.2, but after i continuously try to start it it drops down and eventually shows low voltage
wait a minute, did it crank at all, or did it just do nothing when the key was turned. replacing the alternator shouldnt make any difference with starting the car, just charging the battery while the car is running.
it does crank, but thats all it does, it doesn't actually turn over and start
make sure no lights or anything are staying on when the vehicle is off.

there are no lights that are staying on
 
i have a multimeter, my radar detector shows the voltage, and it shows 14.2, but after i continuously try to start it it drops down and eventually shows low voltage
that does sound pretty normal for it to keep dropping when the starter has to keep running and the motor doesnt fire up to start charging it back up.

i would be careful not to drain the battery too much from trying to start the car, as it could damage the new battery.
it does crank, but thats all it does, it doesn't actually turn over and start
what is the PATS light doing while this is happening? (i cant remember if the PATS will keep the car from cranking or just from firing up )

i would also check on the fuel supply, make sure that there is enough pressure up at the motor.
 
PATS should keep the starter from running, if it is a PATS problem. Still, it is good to check the light. Checking fuel pressure is also a good idea.
 
so this is going to sound dumb, but whats the PATS light? also we checked the fuel pressure last night and there was pressure but what is it supposed to be at?
 
the PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) light is the little bubble near the windshield in the center of the dash that lights up solid while the car should be cranking, and also blinks when the doors are locked, it also has the auto headlight sensor in it
 
correct me if im wrong Joe, but shouldn't the light be on solid, blinking means that there is a problem with seeing the correct key code
 
correct me if im wrong Joe, but shouldn't the light be on solid, blinking means that there is a problem with seeing the correct key code

Yes normal operation is steady on, then off, if the PATS light is blinking (while the key is on), there's some sort of problem. It should flash out a two digit code after a while (I think it just flashes rapidly at first).

Normal fuel pressure is 30 to 55 PSI.
 
well, i replaced the fuel filter and it was pretty bad, drove it all day today so far with no problems
 

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