My new '95 Ivory pearl LSC!

Just a small update, got all the suspension parts, rear air bags and h-pipe installed. The only thing left on the list was a wheel alignment and the amber lights, at least install someone bumped his ugly Peugeot into mine on the office parking lot... Im sure her insurance will pay for it, still pretty annoying though...

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Sorry to see that happen to another LvC member. At least you know who crashed into your car. I would not call that an accident. She knew she would not clear it and went for your car anyway.
 
That blows..take it to a GOOD body shop, don't let your insurance dictate what body shops to take it to, the dent should be able to be massaged out but the whole 1/4 will have to be repainted unfortunately..hope they can match the paint, pearlescant isn't easy.
 
Thats my biggest worry right now, it won't be easy to match the paint so you wont notice anything once its done. I can only hope those guys know what they are doing.
 
Alright, picked up the car on Tuesday, the shop did a brilliant job repairing the dent and repainting the area, impossible to tell that someone bumped into the car.

With the help of a friend I changed the oil and filter today. Getting the filter out and a new one on wasnt as hard as expected to be honest. I planned to change the oil for ages now for reasons I'll explain later, but it was a good chance to try the seafoam stuff before the oil change, too. Didnt notice any difference yet but Im sure it helped cleaning the insides of the engine a bit.

While doing this I noticed a ruptured vacuum line on top of the intake manifold (something I suspected for a while now). I followed the line, seems like 2 lines are coming out of the firewall and merge into one which goes into the T-section on the right as seen in the photos. Anyone got any idea what that might be for and if it could be a reason for my bad mileage? Also, does this line feed all cylinders?

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I reconnected the line with a piece of rubber hose I found lying around for now, guess it'll take a while before the fuel management adjusts and I would feel any difference.
 
I believe I had defrost only! My line was broke right where your arrows are. I was directed to this vac line (to fix by the good lvc members here) to get the air to blow through all the vent's. Not sure it affect's anything else. I could be wrong though about the anything else! I dought you'll feel any difference.
 
Spree said:
I believe I had defrost only! My line was broke right where your arrows are. I was directed to this vac line (to fix by the good lvc members here) to get the air to blow through all the vent's. Not sure it affect's anything else. I could be wrong though about the anything else! I dought you'll feel any difference.
Click to expand...

+1 Mine Cracked and I only Had defrost
 
Ah alright, I guess it still sucked air into the engine that shouldn't be there though. The right end of the line is directly connected to a much larger line that went right into the intake manifold. The thing is, we used this line to suck some of the seafoam into the engine like you are supposed to do. I am just not sure whether this thicker line actually feeds all cylinders which would be necessary to make this stuff work properly.
 
Also, the main reason for that seafoam treatment and oil change was a "knocking" sound that developed over the last couple of months. I didn't move the car a lot so it was just standing around most of the time. I fired it up once in a while tho and drove it for a mile or so just to make sure everything was alright. I know the chain tensioner often causes a sound that might be similar or it might be the oil that hasn't been changed for ages but by now I am pretty sure its actually coming from the lifters in the back on each cylinder bank, so probably #7 and #8. Sounds the same as in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVJryifUTVo

I doesn't go away after getting warm, it seems to be much less noticeable on higher RPMs though, especially if high RPMs are coming down to a lower point where you would normally hear the knocking when you'd stay at this RPM level(lets just say 2000-2500). Only takes a second before its getting louder again tho. No idea what could cause it in this case but it would probably require working on the insides of the engine (valve springs, rod bearing...). Not sure if its a lack of oil pressure or overheating the engine in the past ruined it (even though it wasn't noticeable when I bought it).

I guess I now got 2 options: Fix the engine I got in the car right now or swapping in my spare engine from the parts car with slightly lower mileage, putting some fresh parts on it in the process. Anyone got any opinion what might be the way to go here?
 
If you have another lower mileage engine on hand you would probably save a lot of down time and money to just pull the old and put in your used one and like you said replace certain parts that commonly fail. I would first determine what exactly is wrong with your current engine before you do anything though. To rebuild it would require you pulling it anyway so the used engine would be the most cost effective option..so long as you know for a fact its a good running engine.
 
Yeah, I just wanna make sure thats its not anything simple that wouldnt really require any money/time to fix. So I changed the plugs today, took the old ones out and replaced them with new NGKs. While the old plugs looked pretty nasty it didnt seem to do much of a difference otherwise. Plug wires seem to be in good working order, too but I'll replace them asap anyways.

I also pulled the cel fault codes again to see whats going on there. I checked them 4 times to make sure I read them correctly. Any help with any of them would really be appreciated! :)

172, HO2S System Indicates Lean, No news here
524, Low Speed Fuel Pump Circuit Open
542, Fuel Pump Circuit Open–PCM To Motor Ground
543, Fuel Pump Circuit Open–Battery To Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
586, A/C Clutch Circuit Open

So what exactly is up with that fuel pump? Is it about to go or could it be a relay, if yes where can I find it to replace it? Those 3 codes could explain why my engine is completely shutting off sometimes without warning. Maybe its the Vcrm, that could be a reason for the 586, too right? Might also explin why the cooling fan isnt coming on unless I switch on AC and the "Fan" message appears on the AC panel screen.
 
Nobody got any idea?

Did the inspection today, no problems at all with the car (except some missing bull**** permissions/datasheets that are required in this country for no good reason) except the CO value in the emissions test which was too high at raised RPM. (was about 0.6%, should be below 0.3% so its not extreme Id say), the O2 sensor values were perfectly fine though. Maybe the engine didn't have the right temperature yet, but if thats ignored what else could be the issue? Could it be the original catalytic converters that are going bad (I removed the 3rd cat, but even without that it should stay under .3% I assume)? I recently changed the oil and spark plugs, could it be because the engine running too lean so its using more fuel than it should and raised CO levels? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Changed the plug wires and air filter yesterday and noticed the short rubber hose that's coming out of the passenger side valve cover going into the air intake is falling apart. Can anyone tell me what it's exactly for and what problems this could have caused? I wrapped some tape around it for now but didn't notice any difference in the idle (which is still at 1200rpm all the time), even when I pull it completely off the intake.
 
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