More fun with the wife's Fusion...

SoulSoak

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It's my birthday today...

Yay.

So, my wife comes home saying her car overheated while waiting at Burger King (2006 Fusion 2.3l). She said she turned it off when it got to about 3/4 on the temp gauge. She said she was waiting in line for 15min. Once she started driving again it cooled down to normal (just under half way) and it didn't overheat again.

First thing I lean to was to try and replicate the overheating and check the cooling fan. So I'm in the car parked in my driveway and have it running, I'm giving it throttle from 2k-3500rpm for a minute or two. Finally the temp starts to slowly creep passed halfway. I get out to check the fan, and as I initially suspected, it's not running. So I shut the motor off and begin troubleshooting.

First I check relay #29 in the engine compartment, it's good. Then after doing a little research, I find that there's a couple components to investigate. A cooling fan control module, and a thermoswitch.

However, the first thing I do is test the fan motor itself. I ran a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive fan motor wire, and it turns on full blast. So the fan itself is fine.

Now I just need some help with further diagnosing (Unless someone tells me that I know all I need to and advises me on what needs replacing). Anyhow, I believe this is the thermoswitch...
IMG_20150628_145239.jpg

And I need advise or a procedure on how to diagnose if it's bad (Again, if advised or nesecary).

And I believe this is the cooling fan control module...
IMG_20150628_145257.jpg

And I need advise ora procedure on how to diagnose that.

After some other research, I've found that it's difficult to purchase a module alone. Generally you have to buy the entire fan assembly and it comes with the module.

Anyhow, I really need this fixed and I would greatly appreciate your expertise and advisory. Kind of a **** birthday so far. Thanks in advance.

IMG_20150628_145239.jpg


IMG_20150628_145257.jpg
 
What's going on with the splice to the fan motor and the poly cap added there? It looks like both a short waiting to happen and a likely corrosion spot.

Where did you try powering the fan at? Did you disconnect from the controller and apply power to the fan side of that connector pair? I'm just trying to make sure you verified that power to the motor was getting past that splice that someone did. (I guess there was an electrical noise problem. They could have insulated the legs of the cap and used longer heat shrink and sealed it better...
 
What's going on with the splice to the fan motor and the poly cap added there? It looks like both a short waiting to happen and a likely corrosion spot.

Where did you try powering the fan at? Did you disconnect from the controller and apply power to the fan side of that connector pair? I'm just trying to make sure you verified that power to the motor was getting past that splice that someone did. (I guess there was an electrical noise problem. They could have insulated the legs of the cap and used longer heat shrink and sealed it better...

That was insulated. I cut the insulation off to see what was going on in there.

I put power to the positive red wire pre-splice. Fan turned on full speed. I have not put power to anything post-splice, nor have I done anything with that controller/module box.

That splice area you're referring to looked factory prior to me removing the insulation. I thought that it was the thermoswitch.
 
I fixed it. Did some more troubleshooting by using a hot jumper wire. Turned out that the harness clip post-module was completely corroded. Thanks for the input and help
 
2006, there ought to be a number of those in salvage by now. Might be able to get another module there for less.

Don't know if Ford does it the same way or not but GM uses a separate temp sending unit for the gauge than for engine management. If Ford does the same then you may have a bad sender yet still have an operational gauge.

For finding where the problem is, get it hot, then shut the engine off and turn the ignition back to on. The fan should continue running (when working) in this condition. Then take your volt meter, start from the fan motor and follow the wiring harness checking for voltage at every point you can find access to the path. When you find where the power shows, you found the problem.

If this is a car you plan to keep for a while, it would be worthwhile to invest in a factory manual for it.
 
For finding where the problem is, get it hot, then shut the engine off and turn the ignition back to on. The fan should continue running (when working) in this condition. Then take your volt meter, start from the fan motor and follow the wiring harness checking for voltage at every point you can find access to the path. When you find where the power shows, you found the problem.


you did catch the part where he said he found and fixed the problem already, right?

I fixed it.... ...Turned out that the harness clip post-module was completely corroded.
 
you did catch the part where he said he found and fixed the problem already, right?

Whoops, sorry, missed that. Probably because I was typing my response while he was typing his. Check the time stamps. :rolleyes: No matter, fixing it was the important bit.
 

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