March Underdrive SFI Fluid damper Install Pics

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Right on the Mark

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Ok I'm "BACK" after a computer melt down from a fake "Windows Recovery" virus. That blew.

Ok I'm going to have to make a disclaimer here because this is my car and I work on it how I please. This write up does not imply that this is the only way to do this or the best way.Just way I did it. That said,on we go.

Gonna start by saying this part # 1158 looks good in all ways. Only things are black paint knocks off easy and there is no timing mark on balancer. I will fix this later. This thread is going to be filled with a "plethora" of info and tips for the noobies, you U/D pro's can laugh at how I turned a 1 hour job into a all nighter.

First up is pulling stock balancer. I really recomend some sort of chain wrench to hold balancer from turning while breaking crank bolt free.
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I did not want to mess with rad and fan moving up to clear long crank puller.Even if it would clear? I made a shorter puller jack screw. Here are the pics raw, made and mounted.
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Here is pic of all the pulleys and dia's. Top row ,stock wp on left 5.070 dia,One on right is mustang GT? u/d wp pulley don't know brand dia of 6.450.Stock crank pulley bottom left dia of 6.570 and U/D crank pulley dia of 5.00.
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Before mounting I wanted to put the stock timing mark on new damper. Had to make a crank arbor thats keywayed and tapped to hold damper. Heres arbor and mounted in the damper.
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Here is arbor being index bored so I can use it again and be 100% acc. And pic of the new damper with timing notch in. The notch is 25 degrees off from crank key.
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On to install. Recomend installer kit like this to draw the unit on nice and str8 and even.
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Only thing was bearing pusher in kit to big dia to fit into balancer so had to make tube spacer for large pusher nut,to not strike balancer face.
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This balancer holder bar nice when trqing crank bolt.
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Balancer on with high temp silicone in keyway ,snout and seal greased and lock tight to 60 ft lbs.
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Everything in now and the stock belt worked great. I will go to track run just this and see what it does.
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Im cornfused. Why make the timing mark? Its not adjustable unless you are in the computer and the car knows what its timing is. Wold need a steeda outboard to actually change anything like they did back in the day. Also I dont trust slowing the water pump down so much in these cars. I would have (and have had) kept the stock water pump pulley on the car.
 
topher5150 said:
I had my three piece pulley for about two years and had no trouble with the cooling
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Did you have other significant mods like a tune, headers, full exhaust and plans for NAWZ!? You do things to up the power and you will quickly discover underdriving the water pump that much will cause heat issues.
 
What affect if any will there be on the charging system by changing the underdrive pulley?
 
Only time I noticed an issue was if at a stand sill for more then 5 minutes with the AC blasting, stereo on, lights on and on the brakes. As soon as I would start off again I would get a "Check Traction Control" as the voltage dropped below 10 volts but the system would catch back up within a couple minutes. A better quality alt would prolly eliminate that.
 
A time slip will be determing factor on this mod...not sure if pros outway the cons.

Antoher question...in theory this mod is meant to ease the lag on the motor to allow it to turn more freely which should increase horsepower at the crank...wouldn't keeping the stock pullies and changing over to a e-water pump give you the same or better results without sacrificing the capabilities of the charging system?
 
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Before I put my S/C on I had that same March pulley setup on my car and I never noticed any problems
 
Just to see hard data, can someone with this setup check the voltage output of the alt?
 
wouln't the smaller crank pulley with the larger W/P pulley make the W/P spin almost the same as stock
 
You would think...my issue is I have meziere w/p so if I decide to do this mod I would have to make sure the alt is pumping out enough power.
 
LaserSVT said:
Im cornfused. Why make the timing mark? Its not adjustable unless you are in the computer and the car knows what its timing is. Wold need a steeda outboard to actually change anything like they did back in the day. Also I dont trust slowing the water pump down so much in these cars. I would have (and have had) kept the stock water pump pulley on the car.
Click to expand...

I wanted the timing mark there to check all timing #'s. I will be installing a UPR timing adjuster when bottle goes on. I really think there are (putting finger to cheek) one milllllllllioooon cobra stangs running this kit with no problems. But you know my luck. I will let you know how it goes.
 
Savagecat27 said:
wouln't the smaller crank pulley with the larger W/P pulley make the W/P spin almost the same as stock
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Smaller drive pulley with larger driven pully + slower speed. So no.


Also rat, I thought my explination was pretty clear. Can a stock mark run the lights, stereo, ac, brake lights at idle with no issues? Yes. Could mine do it with ONLY an underdrive crank? No. Now that was with an OEM alt and an Autozone alt.
If you have an alt that makes better power at idle like a Crown Vic model or aftermarket performance one then I dont think there would be an issue.

With all acc on and at idle for longer then 5 minutes I would get a voltage drop to almost 10 volts.

Now there is a slight chance my issue may have had something to do with the blower because the blower gets hot and pretty much wraps itself around the alt causeing heat soak but I couldnt say for sure.
 
Right on the Mark said:
I wanted the timing mark there to check all timing #'s. I will be installing a UPR timing adjuster when bottle goes on. I really think there are (putting finger to cheek) one milllllllllioooon cobra stangs running this kit with no problems. But you know my luck. I will let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I forget that 1st gens dont have the same kinda data log abilities. Since the crank sensor reads what the timing was andy time I wanted to check timing I would just hook the SCT XCal to the data port and read and log it.
 
I have had alternator problems in the past...I wasn't questioning you at all...your acknowledgement of having even the slightest issue makes me leary of this mod. where has sappfire been?
 
ratdog442 said:
A time slip will be determing factor on this mod...not sure if pros outway the cons.

Antoher question...in theory this mod is meant to ease the lag on the motor to allow it to turn more freely which should increase horsepower at the crank...wouldn't keeping the stock pullies and changing over to a e-water pump give you the same or better results without sacrificing the capabilities of the charging system?
Click to expand...

What are the "cons"? I have a meizer elect WP but motor is smoked in it. I don't trust it 100% now for street driving. Also this crank pulley slows down all things beings turned not just WP. I have not noted any low charging.( I don't have any aftermarket kicking stereo)
 
LaserSVT said:
Sorry, I forget that 1st gens dont have the same kinda data log abilities. Since the crank sensor reads what the timing was andy time I wanted to check timing I would just hook the SCT XCal to the data port and read and log it.
Click to expand...

Cuz your spoiled with all those new fangled gadgets you kids have now adays!:D

Here is pic of mark light up by timing light and in the 100% correct spot.
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Savagecat27 said:
wouln't the smaller crank pulley with the larger W/P pulley make the W/P spin almost the same as stock
Click to expand...

Drive pulley ,smaller dia slowes the drivin pulley rpm
Drive pulley , larger dia increases the drivin pulley rpm

Drivin pulley, smaller dia increases rpm
Drivin pulley, larger dia slows rpm

So this kit the U/D crank pulley slows all things down and the U/D WP pulley slows that down even more. I think main reason for WP dia is to use STOCK belt. I could not fit my RPM gauge to note RPM's WP turns stock and being UD.
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I have put 20 miles on car already and don't notice anything bad. Temp gauge is hovering right at where therm opens and closes.(smige above mid gauge) I think I have a 192 therm in there which might get changed to a 180.
 
Right on the Mark said:
What are the "cons"? I have a meizer elect WP but motor is smoked in it. I don't trust it 100% now for street driving. Also this crank pulley slows down all things beings turned not just WP. I have not noted any low charging.( I don't have any aftermarket kicking stereo)
Click to expand...

I guess I better keep my mechanical pump in the trunk in case I ever break down on a road trip otherwise AAA can get me home while in town. I have noticed a difference in cooling and power since the swap.
 
I guess I didn't think about that before I typed it, I actually had the electric pump with U/D crank pulley and stock alternator and drove it in December before I took it off the road to install S/C and it was probably mid 30's outside and I had no problems with the car starting or dying.
 
Savagecat27 said:
I guess I didn't think about that before I typed it, I actually had the electric pump with U/D crank pulley and stock alternator and drove it in December before I took it off the road to install S/C and it was probably mid 30's outside and I had no problems with the car starting or dying.
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You my friend have to get that sweet :ride to the track to get rid of that 15 second et in your sig.:)
 
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