Manual swap

sandman8c93

LVC Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
rockingham
converted my m8 to a manual trans. Too much fun! My brother Custom fabbed a clutch/brake pedal assembly that has the master cyl on the inside of the firewall (reverse actuated) so the only thing going through the firewall is the hyd hose to the slave cyl and the resvoir hose. resovoir is mounted close to the front of the engine. Also made a bolt on bracket for the slave cyl. (no welding on the trans) Im back overseas and my brother hasnt taken any pics yet. He wants to buy a cadcam plasma cutter and turn out another assembly for testing.

He wants to know if it's worth his time to do this (is there a demand?) and I told him there is a good deal of talk about it on this forum, but only a few people have actually done it. In other words, I said I dont know.
__________________
 
Tell him I would be interested in it! Would love a manual but am scared of any of the fab work! The more stuff I can buy would be more of a chance I go with a manual!!! I don't know what kind of transmission you went with, but if mine ever got a manual it will be a six speed! But like I said I am interested in a "complete installation kit"!!! Something like a complete kit would sell like hot cakes!
 
A lot will be interested but tell him to not build ahead or he'll be sitting on a bunch of these. There is a big difference in wanting to and then coming up with the money and actually doing it.

Cash in hand first then build is your best bet.
 
I just wonder if, since the 89-97 T-Bird and the Mark VIII are based on essentially the same platform, can the clutch/brake/gas pedal assembly from the 89-95 T-Bird Super Coupe be used in the Mark to cut down on custom fabrication?
 
Im VERY interested in this development. like stated above the one thing im scared of is the wiring modifications. since im only 16 and short on cash, id probably by a mark with a bad trans and get a t-45 or a t-56 from a local salvage yard and run with that. but do keep up updated on the development of these parts.
 
I went with the t45 from Kiesler engineering. They fixed (so they claim) the inherant problems. Went with the 5 speed because I didnt want to get into changing gear ratios yet and its cheaper. I think overall the t 6060 would be the best bet. Put the cpu under the steering column by removing the center ac duct. Still pondering the 8' plug and play extension. Tried making a cable actuated clutch but space on the inside and outside of the firewall made it impractical. (it worked but not very well) I'm always deployed and my brother works full time so its going to be a slow process.
 
I just wonder if, since the 89-97 T-Bird and the Mark VIII are based on essentially the same platform, can the clutch/brake/gas pedal assembly from the 89-95 T-Bird Super Coupe be used in the Mark to cut down on custom fabrication?

yes that is what people have done in the past, but good luck finding that pedal assembly
 
Also the master cylinder on these goes through the firewall, requires cutting of the shock tower and is more difficult to install. Mine bolts in easily and only requires a hole big enough for 2 hydraulic lines.
 
I would think that the pedal assembly from a Super Coupe would work but I certainly wouldn't recommend a Super Coupe transmission. They are Mazda units that are decent but problematic if you plan on running the car hard.
 
Master cyl

Here's my Master cyl.

transmission change 004.jpg


transmission change 005.jpg


transmission change 006.jpg
 
photos

pics of reverse acuated hyd clutch. Master cyl does not go through firewall. Last photo is of bolt on slave cyl bracket on trans.

100_0617.jpg


100_0618.jpg


100_0619.jpg


100_0621.jpg


100_0624.jpg


100_0626.jpg
 
I would think that the pedal assembly from a Super Coupe would work but I certainly wouldn't recommend a Super Coupe transmission. They are Mazda units that are decent but problematic if you plan on running the car hard.

+1 It's basically the same tranny I had in my old '88 Ford Ranger pickup and '94 Explorer. The bushing under the shifter has a tendency to disintegrate and they always felt like very 'flimsy" to me.
 
Can anyone tell me who can make the wiring extension for moving the PCM in front of the balls A/C vent?I am having the heatercore and evap coil replaced and plan to install the pedal assy while the dash nightmare is out of the car.
 
you can do it, if you are motivated enough.
cut the connector out of a car, cut the other connector out of an old eec, buy a ton of wire and go to town!

otherwise, 200 + 20 a foot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-60-Pin-EEC-IV-Computer-ECM-PCM-Extension-Harness-/290528552854

or, i believe this is the same company.

EEC-IV Extension Harness - Previously Impossible to Find!!

- Finally!! IST now has male-female extension harnesses for the 60 pin EEC-IV or 104 pin EEC-V computer systems!! After years of customer requests, IST now manufactures these harnesses so you don't have to cut your original harness if you need extra length!! These OEM quality harnesses fit virtually ALL 60-pin EEC-IV or 104 pin EEC-V computers, including Mustangs, F150, Bronco, Thunderbird, Cougar, Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Town Car, Taurus, Sable, Ranger, etc. in the 1985-95 year range (year dependant for specific models). Also great for custom engine swaps and kit cars!! All 60 or 104 pins are extended to insure complete compatibility.

EEC-IV.jpg


Part Number EE-1212-F, approx 12" for 60-pin EEC-IV……............................................….............$199.95
Part Number EE-1214-F, approx 12" for 104-pin EEC-V……............................................….............$224.95

>>> Longer lengths also available, call

http://www.mass-air.com/Products.htm

EEC-IV.jpg
 
That's awesome info.I hate wiring and the wiring Gods hate me so that is a great deal as far as I'm concerned.Just a warning about the pedal assys needed for the change over.The stud on the clutch pedal needs to be inspected as the one I bought was worn pretty bad.You will have to grind the weld from the stud and remove it off the pedal arm and have it built up and then turned back down(I'm doing this now).Oh and replace all the worn out plastic bushings while youre at it.
 
Got the pedals ready for the install.Now to get it over to my friends shop for the tear down.I will try and get a friend to post pictures of the cockpit gutted.Good time to clean the carpets for sure.
 

Members online

Back
Top