stallone 81
Dedicated LVC Member
i wanna know if it is possible to have both my lows highs and fogs on at the same time because i know alot of cars can do that but on my ls when i put my high beams on the lows an fogs cant be used
lows and highs ?
- Thread starter stallone 81
- Start date
LeaSr77
Dedicated LVC Member
I've never seen a car do that. Why would you want to have all those lights on at the same time? You will blind somebody for sure.
stallone 81
Dedicated LVC Member
i know thats the point lol my friends got an accord that does it and i know someone with a tahoe that does it too
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The gen II turns the low beams and high beams on at the same time, but you can have the fogs with the low beams only.
Mireau's LS
LVC Member
You can do a little rewireing to make this happen. You can get fancy, also the correct way, and put a relay in line with your dims to power your fogs. Can also put a diode in line with said relay to make it so you can turn just your fogs on without triggering the dims. That way you could run just your fogs, your fogs and dims, and your fogs, dims, and brights all at the same time. Running your relays will also be the safest way. oooorrrrr you could just run a wire from your dims power to turn on your fogs, disconnect your normal fog power wire and this will give you all three sets on at once but will not give the ability to run just your fogs.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
yea, im sure having twice as many lights on the same circuit wont blow any fuses or anything.
if you want to do it, adding relays is the right way to do it. however rewiring the system will probably cause the bulb out warning on your dash to come on.
BTW: its never cool to try to imitate a honda.
Mireau's LS
LVC Member
In all reality, it probably wouldn't blow the fuse if he was running them like that. I personally wouldn't do it like that but thought i'd toss the idea out there. Relays for the win.
and i loved the honda slam, I came from a DSM world so any honda slam brings back memories.
and i loved the honda slam, I came from a DSM world so any honda slam brings back memories.
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
....... i will never understand the desire to do this.....
Here is my reasoning for it:
HID's. And more precisely, the warm-up time required to acheive full brightness.
Say you are driving down a country road at night, with your brights on. You approach an oncoming car, and need to turn your brights off. When you make that switch, the brights turn off, and the HID's turn on. But when HID's first ignite, they are very dim. It's like driving without headlights at all for 5 or so seconds. At 65 mph, you cover a lot of ground in complete blindness.
Also, the constant restriking of HID's is not good for their useful life.
That's my opinion on it.
Until I get it done, I only drive with my HID low beams.
HID's. And more precisely, the warm-up time required to acheive full brightness.
Say you are driving down a country road at night, with your brights on. You approach an oncoming car, and need to turn your brights off. When you make that switch, the brights turn off, and the HID's turn on. But when HID's first ignite, they are very dim. It's like driving without headlights at all for 5 or so seconds. At 65 mph, you cover a lot of ground in complete blindness.
Also, the constant restriking of HID's is not good for their useful life.
That's my opinion on it.
Until I get it done, I only drive with my HID low beams.
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
i see what your saying, i dont have hid's so that doesnt apply to my car, but yeah i understand your reasoning. i also live in the city and rarely have my highs on...
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
that can blow at times but also be nice and were in grand rapids are you i went to school with aguy from there, i lived in flint for 2 years
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
lo wrong person i didnt look at your location hahahaha i dont even know why i thought you were from mi
SPSully
Dedicated LVC Member
what pete said.... and if you are like me and have HIDs in your high beams too, the dead zones are even worse. Cause you need the high beams, so you click em on and wait for them to warm, then you wait for the lows when you turn em off.
Silver_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Is there a Relay in the Gen 2 that keeps our HID lows on? I wouldn't think thats something in the PCM. Then again, everything seems to run through it so who knows. I think figureing out how to keep the HID lows on when highs are lit is a great Idea, for saftey if anything.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Eclipse/Talon, or the real deal, 3000GT/Stealth
yea, well quit talking about, you need to rewire that right away so the low beams HID's stay on all the time, get the relays
one of my part time installers is from G Rap
Here is a sort of grocery list for the jumper harness. This is a message I got from skizot, copied and pasted verbatim:
Since your ballasts plug into the factory harness directly, you'll just need to make sure you have female 9006 plugs at the end of the new harness you'll build (where the ballasts are in my diagram).
I'll try to first break down the parts needed (note, I've added the 2 extra 9006 female plugs in the list below for your setup):
Note that I didn't feel like running my 10 gauge wire all the way back to the battery, so I was able to easily hook it up to the Auxiliary Junction Box under the hood (it's right behind the passenger side headlight on my '02).
- 14 gauge wire (used everywhere except the ring terminal lead that hooks up to the Auxiliary Junction Box)
- 10 gauge wire (used for the ring terminal lead that
hooks up to the Auxiliary Junction)
- Black wire loom to make it look pretty when finished
- (1) 9006 male plug (check out ebay link below)
- (1) 9005 male plug (check out ebay link below)
- (2) 9005 female plugs (bought at O'Reilly auto parts)
- (2) 9006 female plugs (I didn't need these, but you do for your setup. I'm assuming O'Reilly probably carries these as well).
- (1) 1N4007 Diode (bought at Radio Shack)
- (1) 4700uF Electrolytic Capacitor (you may be able to get by with a 2200uF, as the 4700uF is almost the size of a C-battery. I didn't want to chance it, so I just wired in the 4700uF; the only side affect of the capacitor is that it adds about 1.5 second delay when you turn off your lights, which wasn't a big deal to me. I also this at Radio Shack)
- (2) ground terminals (like a spade connector, except that it's round with a hole in the middle so that you can put a screw through it and screw it down. You can get these at auto parts stores, Radio Shack, etc.)
- (2) 30 Amp 5-pin automotive relays w/relay harness (the harness is the thing that the relay plugs into and has the wires coming out of it.)
- 30 Amp inline fuse and fuse holder
- Ring terminal for the 10 gauge power lead wire (this is used for hooking the harness up to the Auxiliary Junction Box.
I chose to solder all my joints (joints are where the wires meet). If you don't feel comfortable soldering, then you can use the crimps.
The 9005 and 9006 male plugs are very difficult to come by, but I found a place to get them from - suvlights.com. Keep in mind though, I paid a premium for these babies - $8 a piece + $8 shipping. So, I just did a quick search on ebay and found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/9006-9005-male-...ss_W0QQitemZ200209242486QQihZ010QQcategoryZ14 932QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD4VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 1638.m124
That looks like it has both the 9006 and 9005 male ends that you'd need. You might ask the guy first though. And, if it were me, I would just fork up the extra cash and get them suvlights.com.
Now a bit of explanation about the harness itself...
The diode is there to keep the low beams on when the high beams are switched on. The capacitor is there because when the high beams are triggered, there is a very small amount of time where there's no power to either high or low beam stock plugs. So, what would end up happening is that the power would be cut to the ballasts for about 400-500 ms while the highs turned on, and then they'd both have power again. That very quick re-strike is definitely not good for the HID bulbs (and probably not the ballasts either). So, I've put the 4700 uF capacitor across the low beam relay coil, so that during that intermittent power outage, the low beam relay stays closed and continues to draw power from the battery.
Using a relay harness is definitely a good thing, as it draws power for the ballasts straight from the battery. It's definitely not a good idea to be pulling the power through the stock wiring. Some people will say it doesn't matter, and sometimes it doesn't have any ill-effects, but I'd say those people are lucky.
I mentioned before that I chose to run my power lead to the Auxiliary Junction Box, instead of all the way back to the battery. This method is more than sufficient because their is a battery cable that comes straight from the batter to this junction box, and it's a 4 gauge wire.
Hopefully I've explained enough here, but let me know if you have questions.
Since your ballasts plug into the factory harness directly, you'll just need to make sure you have female 9006 plugs at the end of the new harness you'll build (where the ballasts are in my diagram).
I'll try to first break down the parts needed (note, I've added the 2 extra 9006 female plugs in the list below for your setup):
Note that I didn't feel like running my 10 gauge wire all the way back to the battery, so I was able to easily hook it up to the Auxiliary Junction Box under the hood (it's right behind the passenger side headlight on my '02).
- 14 gauge wire (used everywhere except the ring terminal lead that hooks up to the Auxiliary Junction Box)
- 10 gauge wire (used for the ring terminal lead that
hooks up to the Auxiliary Junction)
- Black wire loom to make it look pretty when finished
- (1) 9006 male plug (check out ebay link below)
- (1) 9005 male plug (check out ebay link below)
- (2) 9005 female plugs (bought at O'Reilly auto parts)
- (2) 9006 female plugs (I didn't need these, but you do for your setup. I'm assuming O'Reilly probably carries these as well).
- (1) 1N4007 Diode (bought at Radio Shack)
- (1) 4700uF Electrolytic Capacitor (you may be able to get by with a 2200uF, as the 4700uF is almost the size of a C-battery. I didn't want to chance it, so I just wired in the 4700uF; the only side affect of the capacitor is that it adds about 1.5 second delay when you turn off your lights, which wasn't a big deal to me. I also this at Radio Shack)
- (2) ground terminals (like a spade connector, except that it's round with a hole in the middle so that you can put a screw through it and screw it down. You can get these at auto parts stores, Radio Shack, etc.)
- (2) 30 Amp 5-pin automotive relays w/relay harness (the harness is the thing that the relay plugs into and has the wires coming out of it.)
- 30 Amp inline fuse and fuse holder
- Ring terminal for the 10 gauge power lead wire (this is used for hooking the harness up to the Auxiliary Junction Box.
I chose to solder all my joints (joints are where the wires meet). If you don't feel comfortable soldering, then you can use the crimps.
The 9005 and 9006 male plugs are very difficult to come by, but I found a place to get them from - suvlights.com. Keep in mind though, I paid a premium for these babies - $8 a piece + $8 shipping. So, I just did a quick search on ebay and found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/9006-9005-male-...ss_W0QQitemZ200209242486QQihZ010QQcategoryZ14 932QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD4VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 1638.m124
That looks like it has both the 9006 and 9005 male ends that you'd need. You might ask the guy first though. And, if it were me, I would just fork up the extra cash and get them suvlights.com.
Now a bit of explanation about the harness itself...
The diode is there to keep the low beams on when the high beams are switched on. The capacitor is there because when the high beams are triggered, there is a very small amount of time where there's no power to either high or low beam stock plugs. So, what would end up happening is that the power would be cut to the ballasts for about 400-500 ms while the highs turned on, and then they'd both have power again. That very quick re-strike is definitely not good for the HID bulbs (and probably not the ballasts either). So, I've put the 4700 uF capacitor across the low beam relay coil, so that during that intermittent power outage, the low beam relay stays closed and continues to draw power from the battery.
Using a relay harness is definitely a good thing, as it draws power for the ballasts straight from the battery. It's definitely not a good idea to be pulling the power through the stock wiring. Some people will say it doesn't matter, and sometimes it doesn't have any ill-effects, but I'd say those people are lucky.
I mentioned before that I chose to run my power lead to the Auxiliary Junction Box, instead of all the way back to the battery. This method is more than sufficient because their is a battery cable that comes straight from the batter to this junction box, and it's a 4 gauge wire.
Hopefully I've explained enough here, but let me know if you have questions.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
HIDs do add a relay, but it's not to keep to lows and the highs on at the same time. The gen II without HIDs does not have the added relay, but the lows still stay on with the highs.
Headlight control is not in the PCM, it is in the FEM. It is a matter computer programming, not the PCM, but the processor in the FEM.
Silver_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay, wow your knowledge of this stuff really blows me away sometimes. Thanks for the info.
So Pektel, is this something your working on? Or just on the back burner?
So Pektel, is this something your working on? Or just on the back burner?