Lower front end stiffener bars build pics

R

Right on the Mark

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Figured I would make these thought was they can't hurt right? I saw others make these 2 piece and I didn't like those 2 much movement.

Ok I'm going to have to make a disclaimer here because this is my car and I work on it how I please. This write up does not imply that this is the only way to do this or the best way.Just way I did it. That said,on we go.

To start I just welded a big 1/2-13 nut to frame sorry about primer pic its painted red now. LOL This is the bars rear mounting point.
000_0214.jpg

Here is the bars middle mount point you can see that i machined thick 1/8 washer that fit tight into stock K-member hole and tight hole for the thru bolt.
000_0216.jpg

Here are left and right bars welded up and painted.
000_0213.jpg

Here is drivers side all bolted up to car.
000_0217.jpg

The front mount hole in bar also has a tube welded into bar so the bar cannot crush.
 
Well I like the thought, but, how much stiffness are you really creating? I do not see the stiffness created with a nut welded at the closes end point or start of sub frame structure then bolting a square rod to it and then a tab to the cross member. Not to knock your efforts, but I would of taken the rod further down the frame rail and creating a v-bracket to weld the rod to and welded the exposed rod to the frame rail, and created a more heftier tab or cross joint to the cross member. If a bit of torque is applied by a twisting motion then that will cause that nut to snap off or fracture at the weld, and the cross member tab to bend from torque or twist. Maybe something for you to look at to actually create a functionable stiffening method. I hope it works, keep us informed.
 
6 one half, more then one way to skin a cat. But thanks anyway. I'll just add that these are NOT torstional frame connectors these are comprestion struts. These are placed in chassis to stop front to back flex, lateral movment.. These act as a strut rod same as a colume ,thats why all bolt holes are tight and large. If you see the 2 piece set that some sell you'll really say WFT. LOL Also I have had these on the car for 5 years now with 0 problems.
 
Raped Ape said:
Well I like the thought, but, how much stiffness are you really creating? I do not see the stiffness created with a nut welded at the closes end point or start of sub frame structure then bolting a square rod to it and then a tab to the cross member. Not to knock your efforts, but I would of taken the rod further down the frame rail and creating a v-bracket to weld the rod to and welded the exposed rod to the frame rail, and created a more heftier tab or cross joint to the cross member. If a bit of torque is applied by a twisting motion then that will cause that nut to snap off or fracture at the weld, and the cross member tab to bend from torque or twist. Maybe something for you to look at to actually create a functionable stiffening method. I hope it works, keep us informed.
Click to expand...

I made my own as well, I thought about do a single piece just like that but copied the ones they sell.
For the record it adds a ton of stiffness!, it will keep the firewall from cracking if you ever make big power.....lol that's what they say anyway. You can defiantly feel it when you drive the car.
Nice job man.
 
97MarkJA said:
I made my own as well, I thought about do a single piece just like that but copied the ones they sell.
For the record it adds a ton of stiffness!, it will keep the firewall from cracking if you ever make big power.....lol that's what they say anyway. You can defiantly feel it when you drive the car.
Nice job man.
Click to expand...


I like his idea and I bet it will tighten up, but that is not my issue. I hope it works and works well, and he has done a great job at DIY. My only concern though is the bar is sitting on a nut, which will allow extra undo pressure from torque and quite possibly snap or fracture the nut off the frame rail, and the point of where it is attached is at the very beginning of the rail. What I was trying to say is that you need full contact with the frame and down further of the rail for maximum contact and support. By the nut and rod attached at the tip of the frame rail is going to cause twisting and not support which will result in it snapping from twist.

Sorry about this Right on the Mark, it was only my two cents and I do like the clean look of your end product and hope it works as you invisioned it. :D
 
I think the nut will localize any stresses at that point, and "may" tear out at some point, but only time will tell.
 
SATURN5 said:
I think the nut will localize any stresses at that point, and "may" tear out at some point, but only time will tell.
Click to expand...

It could if you made enough power.
Stock"ish" power level it should be OK I would think.
But your right time "and a lead foot " will tell.

Big power I would want something like Temple is making.
One with mad skills could make one I am sure ;)
 
The reason I choose the LARGE 1/2-13 nut is for its large welding surface. This nut has like 3 full inches of weld run on it. This in NOT a regular 1/2 nut where a 3/4 wrench fits on it. Its like 1 1/8 hex size. This is welded to the THICKEST and strongest part of the unibody. I could have easily drilled thru the frame area and inserted a crush tube welded that in and thru bolted the back of brace in.
 
Right on the Mark said:
The reason I choose the LARGE 1/2-13 nut is for its large welding surface. This nut has like 3 full inches of weld run on it. This in NOT a regular 1/2 nut where a 3/4 wrench fits on it. Its like 1 1/8 hex size. This is welded to the THICKEST and strongest part of the unibody. I could have easily drilled thru the frame area and inserted a crush tube welded that in and thru bolted the back of brace in.
Click to expand...

Its strong I'm sure.
You could always add the crush tube later, if more power was added and you felt it was needed.

Nice work!
 
I want people to read this that might be new and not know about what these are and what there are for, here is the low down. These are NOT sub frame connectors. These are not made to control any torstional twisting. These are compression struts. They are made to control front subframe flex back and forth, laterial movement. They work on same principle as a lally colume in your basement. Only meant to be in compression. I.E. Snap tooth pink in half real easy. Now take that toothpick and stand on end and take you finger and press on end. Ouch i bet.
 
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