Looking for weather stripping

dnsherrill

dnsherrill

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I think this looks okay, but maybe new rubber around the doors would reduce cabin noise..
where's the best place to get direct fit new stuff?
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weather strips

I tryed looking a couple years ago and was never able to find a reproduction co. I have since stockpiled every weatherstrip on the car X3. If there is something you need, let me know. Thanx Bruce
 
my weather stripping actually looks decent, I just figured if new stuff was readily available and not crazy $$$ it might be worth replacing to try and eliminate cabin noise...maybe my door is out of alignment
 
dnsherrill said:
my weather stripping actually looks decent, I just figured if new stuff was readily available and not crazy $$$ it might be worth replacing to try and eliminate cabin noise...maybe my door is out of alignment
Click to expand...

Do you have saggy drivers side door hinges?
 
both doors close normally;
awhile ago, after I lowered the jacks, the hinges on both doors started creaking; I figure something shifted, but I've not seen a blatant sag
 
Bear in mind you're getting both sides with those seals from SCP, so it's not too outrageous.

With that said, I have no idea if they're an exact match. They show them on T-bird doors so who knows. I'm pretty sure the inner seal is the same cross section all around, so it could just be sold by the foot. Some of the Ford inner seals are still out there in random colors, but none in black and they probably cost a pretty penny. The upper seals are nowhere to be found for the drivers side (passenger side are still available).

I bought a drivers side inner seal for my 98 in midnight black about a year ago and it wasn't cheap but I don't have the price handy (got it from Green Sales).
 
If the MN12/FN10 door opening weatherstrips are the same, then steelerubber.com carries them as well.
 
keVIIIn said:
Do you have saggy drivers side door hinges?
Click to expand...
actually I might...on the drivers side...a couple of the points might be low on the striker side of the door...I guess to adjust/tweak the door there will be some adjusters behind the trim panel
 
dnsherrill said:
actually I might...on the drivers side...a couple of the points might be low on the striker side of the door...I guess to adjust/tweak the door there will be some adjusters behind the trim panel
Click to expand...

Open the doors, and lift them from the ends like you're trying to open a Butterfly door (Lambo style) if they have play, look at the hinges. There's a hinge repair kit you can buy in the Help section of your local auto parts store

When I open my doors all the way and lift on them the entire car will wiggle, there's 0 wiggle in the door hinges
 
dnsherrill said:
actually I might...on the drivers side...a couple of the points might be low on the striker side of the door...I guess to adjust/tweak the door there will be some adjusters behind the trim panel
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by points, but I know the only fix for a sagging door is to either replace both door hinges or rebuind yours, id say easier to just find another set. I think they are interchangable between passenger and driver side, so obviously pass side hinges see less use so if you find a jy mark steal the pass side door hinges from it and swap them out with yours. There's a few threads around about the hinges, not sure what they are titled as off the top of my head though..worth a shot though as I'm sure hinges are cheap as hell at the junkyard.
 
keVIIIn said:
the only fix for a sagging door is to either replace both door hinges or rebuind yours, id say easier to just find another set.
Click to expand...
from another site:
DOOR ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (1993-94)
NOTE: THE UPPER AND LOWER DOOR HINGES PROVIDE SUFFICIENT ADJUSTMENT TO CORRECT MOST DOOR ALIGNMENT CONCERNS. THE HINGE ATTACHING POINTS ARE ELONGATED TO ALLOW FOR ADJUSTMENT. THE DOORS SHOULD NOT BE PRIED OR FORCED INTO ALIGNMENT. FORCING THE DOORS IS ONLY A TEMPORARY SERVICE ACTION. TO PROPERLY CORRECT DOOR ALIGNMENT CONCERNS, THE HINGES MUST BE LOOSENED TO PERFORM THE ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES.
1. Determine which hinge bolts must be loosened to move the front door in the desired direction.
2. Loosen the hinge bolts just enough to permit movement of the front door with a padded pry bar.
NOTE: THE HINGE BOLTS AT THE "N" PILLAR CAN BE ACCESSED BY REMOVING THE FRONT INNER FENDER LINER AND SOUND DEADENER PAD.
3. Move the door the amount necessary to correct the alignment concern. Tighten the bolts to 25-35 N-m (18-26 lb.ft.) and check the fit of the door. Be sure that there is no bind or interference with the adjacent body panel or the door latch striker.
4. Repeat the operation until the desired fit is obtained.
5. Adjust the door latch striker per the door latch striker adjustment procedure found in this article. ---
Sapperfire said:
Open the doors, and lift them from the ends like you're trying to open a Butterfly door (Lambo style) if they have play, look at the hinges.
Click to expand...
will double check but am 99% sure my car doors have no play/give.
...I'm grasping at straws now...and suspicious b/c after I lowered it from jack stands awhile ago the hinges started creaking right away- I greased them and they shut up....that might have been about the time this obnoxious >40 mph whistle began...but no, no hinge give
 
keVIIIn said:
Not sure what you mean by points, .
Click to expand...
points between striker side of door and the body...intersections that should have a specific relationship to one another based on factory alignment and tolerances
- along the top, at the window, at the trim band @18'' below handle, bottom corner...driver side is slightly lower than pass side...is it possible I racked it by jacking it up and/or lowering it improperly?
 
dnsherrill said:
points between striker side of door and the body...intersections that should have a specific relationship to one another based on factory alignment and tolerances
- along the top, at the window, at the trim band @18'' below handle, bottom corner...driver side is slightly lower than pass side...is it possible I racked it by jacking it up and/or lowering it improperly?
Click to expand...

Right but the only reason for aligning them would be to REalign them if you were to disassemble the hinges or door latch for some reason, they don't come out of alignment on their own, if for some reason they don't line up properly its due to the hinges having play in them like sapper said, due to age and them wearing out and sagging.
 
Also the creeking you speak of when opening the door might be because of the little roller bearing in the lower hinge sticking, sometimes they seize up and stop rolling causing them to wear a flat spot, and when you unseize them by lubing it, this may cause the roller to work again and when it rolls over the flat spot it makes a "popping" or creeking noise when it hits the flat spot.
 
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