Hey I have a question. I'm trying to remove my driver side rear axle nut since my hub bearing failed I wanted to go and grab a complete hub assembly from the jy. My issue is I had put locktite on the threads about a week before and now I need to remove the bolt and I can't. I tried heating the bolt and no go. I also tried to Pb blaster. What are my options? I have no problem cutting the half shaft but what do I cut it with? I need help as I need to get this car on the road asap. A lot of personal drama family wise and I'm stressed to the point that I just wanna get this car fixed.
locktite on rear axle thread
- Thread starter manish
- Start date
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Which Loctite did you use? What method have you tried to loosen the nut (impact, breaker bar, cheater bar, etc.)? If you're getting a complete hub/knuckle assembly from the junkyard, why not get one with the halfshaft still attached and just swap the whole assembly over? You won't have to mess with the halfshaft nut that way.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Loctite will not release until heated above 500 degrees... Especially Red.
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Purple, Blue, and Green Loctite are all removable without heat.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Never seen purple. I see and use plenty of red, blue and green on the DC electric and Pulse tools we service. While blue and green (wicking/pressfit) may say they don't need heat to release, I've had to torch many a tool to get it to release.
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Purple is "adjustable" (#222), blue is "removable" (#242), red is "permanent" (#262), and green is "penetrating" (#290). With or without Loctite, it sometimes takes a little heat to budge various threaded fasteners. In those instances, blue or green Loctite may add to the resistance, but it shouldn't be the sole source.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
You know a friend at a dealer or shop that has a huge ft lb impact gun? Drive car there pull hub cap have him blast nut off and have him snug it back on so you can remove at home.
I used blue I think I can't remember. I can't drive it cause the whole bearing failed. I tried with a breaker bar. I do plan to grab the half shaft also. The half shaft just pulls out? If its that easy then Ima just grab a t50 tork bit and just pull the whole thing out.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Shaft just pulls out if the diff easy as pie
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Correct. Though one issue that I just recalled is that the way the knuckle is bolted to the LCA from the factory prevents you from removing the knuckle from the LCA without first removing the halfshaft. If you've had it all apart before and changed the orientation of the lower front knuckle-to-LCA bolts, you would be golden, but you'll run into the same issue on whatever parts car you rob the knuckle and halfshaft from.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i used an impact gun. busted it right loose after sitting for 18 years.
find someone with a really big impact gun.
find someone with a really big impact gun.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
I cut the bottom of the one lower spindle bolt that cannot come out with out pulling the CV shaft. Once you cut off bottom part of flange on bolt it knocks out. I have had the cut bolts in my car for years now no problem.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
you need this guys tool set
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
you need this guys tool set
what the hell is he doing.
danny_holtermann
Dedicated LVC Member
ya, only use red loctite on something that never has to be taken apart in the long future
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
removing the harmonic balance bolts... i think
Ok just got home and realized I used red locktite. So my only choice is to try to heat it to 500+ degrees or have someone bring a impact gun and tank over
go buy a torch and a 6er. by the time you are done with half of the 6er, you will have enough heat in the bolt for it to slide right off. pluss a decent buzz.
:drunk:
Lol^^^ well I got it off. I applied some heat and then tried to tighten it more then went the other way....came right off. Now I gotta buy a new t50 bit to get one of the lower bolt off and then I'm done! Thanks guys!!
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
:wrench Next time use blue Loctite.
Whenever I install the halfshafts into the knuckles, I use a new nut with blue Loctite, torqued to 250 lb-ft. Then, rather than tossing the old nut in the trash, I install it with a little blue Loctite to act as a jam nut. Just a little extra insurance that nothing gets loose.
Whenever I install the halfshafts into the knuckles, I use a new nut with blue Loctite, torqued to 250 lb-ft. Then, rather than tossing the old nut in the trash, I install it with a little blue Loctite to act as a jam nut. Just a little extra insurance that nothing gets loose.
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
No loctite is needed.those nuts are a special design that creates an interferance fit . The reason you have to replace them is you only only getthe proper interferance grip 1 time. I have reused them before with no issues. I just buy repleacements now. The risk is not worth $5.
2002WRXSTi
Dedicated LVC Member
When I did my Posi swap I reuse my nuts. Never had any issues with anything backing off and there was no Loctite used. Knowing this now I'll just order new nuts the next time I do this. Same thing with my WRX. No Loctite and nothing has ever come loose without using it. Pushes over 550 hp with that one too so
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
The oficial ford repair procedures state to not reuse the nuts.
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Totally true. I always use new nuts. The blue Loctite and using the old nuts as jam nuts is just added insurance.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Kinda weird Focus used same style nuts on rear hubs and Ford says those can be used 4 times.