04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
You are correct. My bad. I had them mixed up.
Lincoln LS Limited Slip Differential bolt-in...
- Thread starter ILLS
- Start date
OverseaJag
New LVC Member
Hello,
As my name mention it I'm a jag owner in France. First of all, thank you all for going into these experiment and share it to everybody. I bought a used Pumpkin diff to work on without immobilizing the car. I also get a eaton style LSD with bearings.
I want to know more about the shims. I've got 2 different shims on the stock diff, one thick and the other one is thinner. I don't know which one goes on which side. To do things properly, I would like to know which shims kit I have to buy and where. It seems that a pack for a ford 8.8 would work for our 8.0 IRS diff, just want to be sure as I have to buy everything from the US and the costs are going up with tax and shipping.
I've read that some of you guys didn't even bother with shims, but i don't feel confident doing it, because the differential+bearing will be changed so the length will be different from the stock diff.
Also, is it normal that I had to struggle hard to get the differential out of the pumpkin, It didn't work with a pry bar or with using one of the ring gear bolt. I had to use a rag to stuck it between the pinion and the ring and turn it by hand (strong hand) and repeat it twice with a thicker rag.
As my name mention it I'm a jag owner in France. First of all, thank you all for going into these experiment and share it to everybody. I bought a used Pumpkin diff to work on without immobilizing the car. I also get a eaton style LSD with bearings.
I want to know more about the shims. I've got 2 different shims on the stock diff, one thick and the other one is thinner. I don't know which one goes on which side. To do things properly, I would like to know which shims kit I have to buy and where. It seems that a pack for a ford 8.8 would work for our 8.0 IRS diff, just want to be sure as I have to buy everything from the US and the costs are going up with tax and shipping.
I've read that some of you guys didn't even bother with shims, but i don't feel confident doing it, because the differential+bearing will be changed so the length will be different from the stock diff.
Also, is it normal that I had to struggle hard to get the differential out of the pumpkin, It didn't work with a pry bar or with using one of the ring gear bolt. I had to use a rag to stuck it between the pinion and the ring and turn it by hand (strong hand) and repeat it twice with a thicker rag.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
I believe there may be a "special tool" to spread the diff case slightly... and it can be difficult to remove or install the diff without it.
smegun
Well-Known LVC Member
i dont understand why they didnt put the ls with the ls in the first place i think of those flashing traction control lights as an impediment weather or not to take it off line regarding the true feature of the car to pass like a simple roadster why didnt they incorporate lsd into the traction control scenario in the first place ?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's easy, cost.
The LS apparently cost too much to be successful as it was. As an indication of that, it seems that very few of us on this forum bought the LS new.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Even with a limited slip rear diff... you would probably still need traction control in bad weather.
Probably more ...
or you could spin out.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Not exactly. The critcal measurements with the ring and pinion... is the backlash. Typically .008-.0012. Shim spacers are used on either side of the carrier to get those specs.
Problem is... the ring gear thickness can vary a few thou from vehicle to vehicle. That's why shims may or may not be needed.
OverseaJag
New LVC Member
I will use the same ring gear which came from the same pumpkin that i'll use. So what do you think about it ? Should i buy a shims kit?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Only way to really find out is to install the center section and check backlash. Also test the wear pattern after install.
That's done by "painting" some of the teeth on the ring gear... and turning the assembly to see how deep or shallow the gears are meshing. Contact on the center of the gears is what you want. Too deep... and the pinion gear will wear. Too shallow... and the ring gear will wear.
This whole proceedure isn't a "once and done" thing. I can take a few times to get the R&P depth right.
And the shims go behind the bearings on the carrier (center section), so you might be pulling and reinstalling the bearings more than once.
That's done by "painting" some of the teeth on the ring gear... and turning the assembly to see how deep or shallow the gears are meshing. Contact on the center of the gears is what you want. Too deep... and the pinion gear will wear. Too shallow... and the ring gear will wear.
This whole proceedure isn't a "once and done" thing. I can take a few times to get the R&P depth right.
And the shims go behind the bearings on the carrier (center section), so you might be pulling and reinstalling the bearings more than once.
ajv8
Well-Known LVC Member
8.8 carrier goes outside the race. danas go under and need setup bearings
OverseaJag
New LVC Member
Update
I've installed the diff. I bought a shim kit and it was very useful. It took me 18 times to get the good backlash.
No issue at all about the ratio change from 3.07 to 3.31 (manual gearbox).
It was chattering a little bit in slow turn, but after about 500km, there is no chatter at all. I used titan gear ls 90 oil by fusch.
I've installed the diff. I bought a shim kit and it was very useful. It took me 18 times to get the good backlash.
No issue at all about the ratio change from 3.07 to 3.31 (manual gearbox).
It was chattering a little bit in slow turn, but after about 500km, there is no chatter at all. I used titan gear ls 90 oil by fusch.