djknowledge
Dedicated LVC Member
just want to see what some of you guys have done with your installs. ill be posting pics as soon as i get home.
lincoln ls audio installs!!!
- Thread starter djknowledge
- Start date
CrackerJack
Dedicated LVC Member
Full alpine Type R's in a 94 caprice and 95 explorer. Type X's on stock head unit for a 2003 M5
djknowledge
Dedicated LVC Member
pics please!!!
i want to see the install pics so i can compare
i want to see the install pics so i can compare
djknowledge
Dedicated LVC Member
please post install pics when replying please!!!
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Click the gallery link in my sig. My stuff is there.
I am running the factory Alpins 6-disc changer with Memphis amp and two memphis 10"s. The trunk install was done by me. The material is color matched to the interior. I have two 10" StreetFX Colorstorm LED tubes in the trunk also.
Tru-Blu
Dedicated LVC Member
Search on Avic or F90 in the LS and Audio forums here at LVC - a lot of us have put in a Pioneer Avic of some flavor and love them. You can even find install tips and help. 
TRU
TRU
CrackerJack
Dedicated LVC Member
Ahem... thread title says "LS installs"
And 03 M5? why the hell would you downgrade to the LS? The M5 is badass.
I already got the Alpine system, and my friends liked it so much even their dad changed their speakers.
I dont need any new audio equipment
Well I've been wanting to show off my handiwork.
This is what I finally finished up with after the Custom Sub Box thread
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=54583
Probably have close to 100 hours in this by now.
Kenwood DNX 9140 head with remote velcro'd to the console
(love this feature)
Rockford Fosgate "old school" BD 1000.1 1000 watts rms for lows.
Rockford Fosgate "old school" 500a2 500 watts rms for mids in doors.
Soundstorm FF200 100 watts rms for highs on A pillar.
Soundstorm FF200 100 watts rms for coneless seat subs.
MetricAudio 1.5 Farad Capacitor.
Pioneer 1/2 din +-12db EQ with sub amp controls.
Pyramid 1/2 din 3 way crossover with individual eq and gain controls
for the 3 other amps.
2 Audiobahn 12" 1000 watt dual coil woofers in custom ported
3.7 cu/ft box designed to maximum size with minimum loss of trunk space.
4 Infinity 6x8 692 Kappas in doors rated 100 watts rms each.
2 Pyramid 2" tweeters rated 50 watts rms each.
2 Aura Coneless woofers under front seats rated 50 watts rms each.
Factory console speakers hooked to Kenwood head 20 watt
front outs.
I also have a Rockford 600a4 that I'm going to put in place of the 500a2 to power the 4 door speakers.
That way I can hook the rear door speakers to the Kenwood head rca rear outs so I can use the kenwood eq and sound field controls while retaining the manual eq in dash controls for the subs, front door speakers and tweeters.
This is what I finally finished up with after the Custom Sub Box thread
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=54583
Probably have close to 100 hours in this by now.
Kenwood DNX 9140 head with remote velcro'd to the console
(love this feature)
Rockford Fosgate "old school" BD 1000.1 1000 watts rms for lows.
Rockford Fosgate "old school" 500a2 500 watts rms for mids in doors.
Soundstorm FF200 100 watts rms for highs on A pillar.
Soundstorm FF200 100 watts rms for coneless seat subs.
MetricAudio 1.5 Farad Capacitor.
Pioneer 1/2 din +-12db EQ with sub amp controls.
Pyramid 1/2 din 3 way crossover with individual eq and gain controls
for the 3 other amps.
2 Audiobahn 12" 1000 watt dual coil woofers in custom ported
3.7 cu/ft box designed to maximum size with minimum loss of trunk space.
4 Infinity 6x8 692 Kappas in doors rated 100 watts rms each.
2 Pyramid 2" tweeters rated 50 watts rms each.
2 Aura Coneless woofers under front seats rated 50 watts rms each.
Factory console speakers hooked to Kenwood head 20 watt
front outs.
I also have a Rockford 600a4 that I'm going to put in place of the 500a2 to power the 4 door speakers.
That way I can hook the rear door speakers to the Kenwood head rca rear outs so I can use the kenwood eq and sound field controls while retaining the manual eq in dash controls for the subs, front door speakers and tweeters.
starfox86
Well-Known LVC Member
Holy crap^
Lincoln Jealous
Dedicated LVC Member
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whats that thing under the drivers seat? lol looks like a PA speaker
Those are the AURA coneless woofers that vibrate the seats to the bass notes.
I think they're pretty cool.
There's a volume adjustment for them in the Pyramid 1/2 din crosover.
The're a discontinued item but do turn up on ebay occasionally.
I bought them at a flea market in 2001 and had them in my Camaro convertible.
Lincoln Jealous
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I painted and mounted them on metal plates and then mounted that 1/2 inch off the carpet so that they would work and not just get absorbed.
There's so much insulation under the carpet I had to use 3" deck screws to hold them down.
They"re fun and work good.
Something a little extra and different.
There's so much insulation under the carpet I had to use 3" deck screws to hold them down.
They"re fun and work good.
Something a little extra and different.
PetesSweets86
Dedicated LVC Member
I got my Kenwood Console http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/Navigation/DNX6140
powering the Focal K2 165 KR2s I got installed in the fronts and back (full compenent system I had done while I was suspended)
http://www.focal-america.com/
powering the Focal K2 165 KR2s I got installed in the fronts and back (full compenent system I had done while I was suspended
)http://www.focal-america.com/
I mounted the 2nd SF200 amp for the tweeters under the dash behind the glovebox.
2 way tape didn't work so I roughed up the sufaces with 40 grit and used bondo LOL!
to hold it in place.
The Kenwood head unit has a 15 amp fuse and the seller recommended a heavier guage wire so I took my power with a 12 guage wire right off the main positive that runs inside the rocker.
I used a relay for the switched positive,14 guage wires from there, everything works great and I get no freezups.
The green power wire has an inline fuse accessible behind the dash right side end panel which only has press fit clips and pops off in seconds.
Pulling the fuse shuts down all the front aftermarket stuff.
All the stuff is on these power wires independant of the factory harness.
The rear amps and cap are on a 200 amp breaker that trips at 100 amps.
There's also the forklift style connectors for the 4 guage power wires.
This was done like this so I can shut it all down easily if I need service for an electrical problem so the tech can't blame my aftermarket stuff.
I have an intermittent short somewhere in a relay that displays the service parking brake message, and keeps the mirror and wiper circiut open after the key has been turned off.
This drains my battery if the car's not running.
I don't know if pulling the battery terminal numerous times over the instal contributed to this problem.
Everytime you pull the battery cable and rehook the car tells you to apply the parking brake.
I took it to ford and the tech said all the parking brake modules checked out and blamed my aftermarket stuff.
At that time the problem was intermittent and hiding from the tech but now it's constant.
I've been pulling the negative cable in the trunk at night which has been getting me by fine but I'm going to have to have someone fix this for me.
My regular mechanic is pretty good with electrical and since I've put all my aftermaket on seperate harnesses that can be easily disconnected he's willing to attempt totrack this down for me.
2 way tape didn't work so I roughed up the sufaces with 40 grit and used bondo LOL!
to hold it in place.
The Kenwood head unit has a 15 amp fuse and the seller recommended a heavier guage wire so I took my power with a 12 guage wire right off the main positive that runs inside the rocker.
I used a relay for the switched positive,14 guage wires from there, everything works great and I get no freezups.
The green power wire has an inline fuse accessible behind the dash right side end panel which only has press fit clips and pops off in seconds.
Pulling the fuse shuts down all the front aftermarket stuff.
All the stuff is on these power wires independant of the factory harness.
The rear amps and cap are on a 200 amp breaker that trips at 100 amps.
There's also the forklift style connectors for the 4 guage power wires.
This was done like this so I can shut it all down easily if I need service for an electrical problem so the tech can't blame my aftermarket stuff.
I have an intermittent short somewhere in a relay that displays the service parking brake message, and keeps the mirror and wiper circiut open after the key has been turned off.
This drains my battery if the car's not running.
I don't know if pulling the battery terminal numerous times over the instal contributed to this problem.
Everytime you pull the battery cable and rehook the car tells you to apply the parking brake.
I took it to ford and the tech said all the parking brake modules checked out and blamed my aftermarket stuff.
At that time the problem was intermittent and hiding from the tech but now it's constant.
I've been pulling the negative cable in the trunk at night which has been getting me by fine but I'm going to have to have someone fix this for me.
My regular mechanic is pretty good with electrical and since I've put all my aftermaket on seperate harnesses that can be easily disconnected he's willing to attempt totrack this down for me.