Light flicker

NoLimit95

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Here is the deal. When I start my 94 (cold start), the dash lights or whatever lights I have on will flicker enough to notice. It's not an off and on flicker but enough to see. The idle will be around 1100 or so when first started and then it goes to around 750 like it should and the flicker continues but the idle is perfect and smooth.

I let the car idle until the temp gauge starts to move a little and then drive. After it gets up to temp or even a 1/4 of the way, the idle flicker isn't there anymore. It's almost like the alternator is going bad again. I have an Ultima 130 amp 4G lifetime warranty alternator. Yes, I know, MOTORCRAFT is supposed to fix all and last a lifetime.

Another thing it's doing after getting up to temp while at idle is acting like it's about to run out of gas. It stalls like it is about to run out of gas but this is with 3/4 of a tank of gas. It has a new fuel filter on it, I know it's not the pump because I changed it out from a working OEM to an almost new OEM fuel pump. It has a fairly new IAC or I can safely say, less than 500 miles is on it and the TPS is about a year old.

Question is, could the stall and flicker all be from the alternator going bad? I have a brand new Motorcraft alternator on the way. Not rebuilt, not used but brand new. The battery I have in is also a couple of months old. The alternator I have in there now is my 3rd one since 2005 so it's known to me that this particular alternator is prone to go bad.

The stalling issue never happens while driving and only at the 750 idle. It doesn't always stall, just this past week or two, it's started it. If it does stall, I can tap the gas and bring it straight out of the stall and it idles fine again. My dad being 61 seems to think it's all because of the stereo stuff I have in the trunk but it's not. First off, what I have as a system isn't big enough to cause all of this and I rarely ever turn it on. Air ride is all good and airs up like it should. It starts fine without any hesitation or misfires. I just think that the cold start flicker and after getting warm idle stall is alternator related.

Luckily, the parts store is going to let me bring my alternator in and take the $160 I have invested into that one and add enough to make the difference up for the new Motorcraft for $234 so I'll be paying about $80 for the real deal but at the same time, I'm going from lifetime to a 1 year warranty.
 
Maybe a diode going out in the alt? I am just guessing on this one...

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I guess one of the sections is out or going out and it's only putting out 2/3 of the power it should be, causing the flicker but not sure about the stall out it does sometimes at idle. I'm going to leave it in the garage until the Motorcraft alt comes in Wednesday. I'll go get it in the truck so when I replace it, it will be a cold start and if it's going to flicker, it will do it after setting for a couple of days.
 
Do you have a volt meter? Its pretty easy to check the volts on an alternator. If its not putting out in the area of 14 volts or more, its likely bad. Try at varying RPMS too.
 
Mine used to do that too but then I stopped playing with the headlight switch while waiting for the car to warm up.

headhurt.jpg
 
Strangely enough, I'm having this exact same problem with my 00' LS V8. I just had to replace my battery... maybe my alt is going bad as well? Does your engine "rock" when it feels like its going to stall? Mine does a bit, and smooths out completely when I give it a little gas...
 
Strangely enough, I'm having this exact same problem with my 00' LS V8. I just had to replace my battery... maybe my alt is going bad as well? Does your engine "rock" when it feels like its going to stall? Mine does a bit, and smooths out completely when I give it a little gas...


Yes, it's like it's about to run out of gas but all I have to do it tap it and it jumps to attention without hesitation. I have had a problem this week with the ordering of a new Motorcraft alternator. I now finally have one coming from St. Louis and should be here this coming Tuesday. I'm also buying a new battery, even though the one I have is new, it's still not what the car calls for. It's only an 850 and I want the 1000. O'Rielly's is taking the round about $160 I have invested in the :q:q:q:qty Ultima and putting it into the new Motorcraft that's on the way. They have it for $234.00 and all I have to do is pay the difference. I could have gotten my money back and ordered elsewhere but I thought it was coming sooner. It doesn't have me broke down or anything, just annoys me so I don't drive it. I have a spare Mitsubishi alternator on the 93 engine that I'm going to swap with until the new one comes in. When I go pick that up, then I'm going after the new 1000 CCA battery and I bet I don't have flicker no more.
 
Do you think the faulty alt has something to do with the engine as well? Maybe if its giving the lighting an inconsistency of power flow, might be doing the same to the COP's? Causing a misfire?:confused:
 
Do you think the faulty alt has something to do with the engine as well? Maybe if its giving the lighting an inconsistency of power flow, might be doing the same to the COP's? Causing a misfire?:confused:

I'm hoping so. The alternator works using 3 sections. Each one in 120 degrees, giving constant power but I thing one of mine is bad and a 2nd might be going bad after warm up and causing the bog down, like it's going to die on me. If that don't fix my bogging at idle, I know what it is. 02 sensors! Bosch..... Everything else I'm doing is going to stop the flicker, I just hope it's also part of the quick idle drop after being warmed up. It's not all the time, just sometimes but never when cold. CE light comes on sometimes so that's what's telling me the new Bosch 02's just simply suck.
 
Yep, exact same for me too. My finances are tight ATM, so I will be watchin your progress to give me some good ideas! :D

I'm supposed to have it this coming Wed at the latest. I just bought the 850 CCA / 1000 CA battery today and it's not being hooked up to anything until I get this Motorcraft alternator. The battery has an 8 year warranty with a 3 year free replacement for $103 core was $12
 
I'm supposed to have it this coming Wed at the latest. I just bought the 850 CCA / 1000 CA battery today and it's not being hooked up to anything until I get this Motorcraft alternator. The battery has an 8 year warranty with a 3 year free replacement for $103 core was $12

must be a vatozone battery....they went up....
 
It's my first time pricing them but it's worth every penny to me to know I have what the car calls for. The warranty sold me. I'm just ready for this alternator to get here now.
 
It's my first time pricing them but it's worth every penny to me to know I have what the car calls for. The warranty sold me. I'm just ready for this alternator to get here now.

I'd go with the az battery, but not the alt...I work at one and I see how many come back..I wouldn't put a valucraft alt on my tractor, much less the mark. Az is getting greedy with the batteries, 2 price changes in less than 3 weeks. That batt was 91, then 101, now 103.
 
I'd go with the az battery, but not the alt...I work at one and I see how many come back..I wouldn't put a valucraft alt on my tractor, much less the mark. Az is getting greedy with the batteries, 2 price changes in less than 3 weeks. That batt was 91, then 101, now 103.

No, the alternator I'm getting is coming from O'Reilly's because I already have right at $160 invested in the junk they sell but they are able to get me the real deal that I need and all I have to do is pay the difference. All I'm looking at by doing this is about $80, tax and all.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...i=1188525&partType=01468&parentPartType=C0330
 

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