Issue at hand, need advice

Fla02LS

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I've done a ton of reading here and elsewhere about my current issue and thought i'd try to get some advice from actual LS owners before i grab my anal lube and head to the dealer.

Literally this happened from one day to the next. I get in my car around lunch time and its blistering hot out. Turn the a/c on and of course it isnt cold right away, always takes a minute or two to build up some coolness. Sitting and sitting and sitting, the air is warm and stale, doesnt feel like the a/c is working. I drive away and as i drive out of the parking lot it gets slightly cooler. I get on the road going 45mph and its alot cooler. On the highway, 65-70mph it seems to work perfect. Get off the highway and sit at a redlight.... back to warm.

So based on the whats happening i have ruled out the dccv failing again, if so the air would remain hot. Been there. I've checked the fan, kicks on like its supposed to when a/c turns on. I've washed out the condensor/radiator area, thinking that possibly driving thru heavy rain recently might have cruded up the condensor. Issue still there.

What gets me is when im stopped if i throw it into neutral and rev to 2-3k rpm it gets cooler, back to idle....warm. All components seem to be working fine. Had a new belt not too long ago. Stumped.

One thing that i read is regarding the compressor and refridgerant. At higher rpms the compressor "works" more efficiently supposedly. Perhaps slightly low on freon? Its not low enough to prevent compressor from kicking on, but wouldnt low freon cause a consistent output temp regardless of vehicle speed?

Its just wierd to me that when stopped it blows luke warm and on the highway i have to turn it down it gets so cold. What condition could exist to cause the variance in temp like that? Since the LS only has one fan, is it supposed to run at different speeds, like when a/c is on and car stopped? Possible relay or sensor? The engine temp stays constant and never goes high, so the fan is working fine in that respect. Did a computer scan and no codes, also did the DATC self test and no codes.
 
Seems stupid but when my car is closer to the 3k oil change mark like around 2800-3000k range the ac does not work the same
 
Since you have a gen II, I doubt it is the fan.
You could be low on R134a refrigerant.
You could have a bad expansion valve.
You could have a failing compressor.
 
Since you have a gen II, I doubt it is the fan.
You could be low on R134a refrigerant.
You could have a bad expansion valve.
You could have a failing compressor.

Ok. Those are all things i have been able to dig up thru my reading. Im still confused as to how any of the above mentioned possibilities would result in the warm a/c at idle and cold a/c at 45+mph thing.

Why would vehicle speed or engine rpm affect those components? My thoughts are that a bad part is a bad part and would produce consistent results no matter the speed driven.

Luckily most of my driving on the highway so i get cold a/c even in the 95+ degree weather. Its just the 10-15 minutes of driving getting to the highway thats rough.
 
The auxiliary water pump does the same for heat when its going bad. I would rule that the compressor might be going.
 
This heat wave is putting a strain on all cooling systems.

It could just be that you need refrigerant.
 
Plus one more on adding some 134. The pump is running slower at low speed and since there is less refrigerant there isn't enough to properly go through the cooling cycle. Rev it up and there's enough circulation to cool things.

KS
 
Plus one more on adding some 134. The pump is running slower at low speed and since there is less refrigerant there isn't enough to properly go through the cooling cycle. Rev it up and there's enough circulation to cool things.

KS
By "pump" i am guessing you mean compressor. If it wasnt such a pain in the ass to get to the low side port i would have check and added by now.

One more nice thing about my wifes Dodge. All the coils and plugs are directly accessible from the top of the engine. 2 minutes and you can have a plug and coil replaced. Also the compressor is right there when you open the hood. Low side port is right in front of your face. Again, 45 seconds to hook up a gauge to check and add r134. LS.... remove wheel, remove plastic wheel liner, squint and look hard to find a port hidden among other crap.

Anyone try accessing the low side port from underneath? I am planning on doing an oil change tomorrow and will have it up on ramps.

One other thought, the proper a/c manifold gauge has a low and high connection. Are the hoses from the manifold easy to attach to both the low and high side.... seeing they are accessed from different areas.

Sometimes the LS makes me wanna go back to a 70's or 80's car where everything was simplier and accessible. Engine compartments were huge and had plenty of room to work on things. Anyone else with me on that? Im suprised auto makers havent found a way to hide the gas fill cap to make it harder to get to it and fill up. Remember the old days when the gas cap was behind a spring loaded license plate. Back then things were just kinda dumb, now designs are down right mind blowing how cramped and difficult everything is.
 
I found adding the refrigerant was very easy. Also finding the port was not difficult. It is right there with a little cap on it. Nothing to really fuss about.

The only thing that is somewhat annoying is you have to rotate the can around whilst adding and somehow keep looking @ the gauge and it is a tight spot to do all of those things.
 
Did you ever find the problem? Im experencing the same issue I added freon yesterday and it blew nice and cold and its 6pm today and I can definetly tell its not nearly as cool today, 8 months ago the compressor was changed and the dryer as well.
 
This same thing happened to my 2000 LS about 1 year ago and it just got worse and worse : ( now I just get straight heat from the vents if I turn AC on. I did order the DCCV as I think that maybe the issue but again I am not sure.
 
I have changed the Dccv on mine about a year ago and had the same problem a few weeks ago and had it checked at the dealership and ended up being the schrader valve on the ac manifold hose it was leaking the freon out of there, either way if your Dccv has never been changed its good to do it anyway.
 

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