I want to shave my door handles

I do have a tip that will SAVE anyones a$$ shaving.. I discovered this great stuff made by 3M 8115 panel adhesive. OMG ive shaved 3 cars using this stuff and not a problem yet, the cars are about 4 years in the weather.

8115 panel bond drys to a rock hard filler type material which you can sand and smooth out.

IMHO its better then welding and mud. Welding warps the metal I dont care who you are you will warp a panel :) And Mud.. well... not much I can say about it that everyone alreadys knows.
 
I do have a tip that will SAVE anyones a$$ shaving.. I discovered this great stuff made by 3M 8115 panel adhesive. OMG ive shaved 3 cars using this stuff and not a problem yet, the cars are about 4 years in the weather.

8115 panel bond drys to a rock hard filler type material which you can sand and smooth out.

IMHO its better then welding and mud. Welding warps the metal I dont care who you are you will warp a panel :) And Mud.. well... not much I can say about it that everyone alreadys knows.

I would not recommend using panel glue to anyone! If you can't weld something as small as a door handle hole with out warping it you shouldn't be welding. All is well with glue until someone is careless and hits your door and the whole thing falls apart.
 
I would not recommend using panel glue to anyone! If you can't weld something as small as a door handle hole with out warping it you shouldn't be welding. All is well with glue until someone is careless and hits your door and the whole thing falls apart.



Then explain to me how is that DOT approves cars being they are mostly panel bonded these days to save $$

Have you personally attempted to weld onto 18awg steel? I haved shaved many doors and used many tricks, It took me 6hrs to shave 1 door on a Scion XB I gave up after one door and used panel bond to do the rest..

goto a salvage yard with some 8115 by 3M and do a test for yourself. you might change your tune ;)

My poor scion has been dinged to hell and back and none of the filler plates have cracked or fallen off as you say..
 
Then explain to me how is that DOT approves cars being they are mostly panel bonded these days to save $$

Have you personally attempted to weld onto 18awg steel? I haved shaved many doors and used many tricks, It took me 6hrs to shave 1 door on a Scion XB I gave up after one door and used panel bond to do the rest..

goto a salvage yard with some 8115 by 3M and do a test for yourself. you might change your tune ;)

My poor scion has been dinged to hell and back and none of the filler plates have cracked or fallen off as you say..

Hey dude how much does a 200ml can\tube do?...little expensive to go out and test on a useless car...
 
Hey dude how much does a 200ml can\tube do?...little expensive to go out and test on a useless car...

I did my xB with 1/4 of the tubes, the way I do it, is a sandwich of sorts.

I put a plate from behind and let it set, then cut out a filler plate to the exact contour of the handle spot and spread the glue around the outside of the handle hole, and a spot in the center, sandwich the layers and let it set, the excess that squeezes out will dry into a rock hard cement thats sandable. and if the you the top filler panel really close to the hole there wont be alot of mud used,

Of course you know that the less mud you use the better.

the doors on my scion were so strong it resisted the constant beating from drunkies trying to use the airbrushed handles. :)
 
I did my xB with 1/4 of the tubes, the way I do it, is a sandwich of sorts.

I put a plate from behind and let it set, then cut out a filler plate to the exact contour of the handle spot and spread the glue around the outside of the handle hole, and a spot in the center, sandwich the layers and let it set, the excess that squeezes out will dry into a rock hard cement thats sandable. and if the you the top filler panel really close to the hole there wont be alot of mud used,

Of course you know that the less mud you use the better.

the doors on my scion were so strong it resisted the constant beating from drunkies trying to use the airbrushed handles. :)

Pics of the xB dude?...would love to see what it looks like...
 
Then explain to me how is that DOT approves cars being they are mostly panel bonded these days to save $$

Have you personally attempted to weld onto 18awg steel? I haved shaved many doors and used many tricks, It took me 6hrs to shave 1 door on a Scion XB I gave up after one door and used panel bond to do the rest..

goto a salvage yard with some 8115 by 3M and do a test for yourself. you might change your tune ;)

My poor scion has been dinged to hell and back and none of the filler plates have cracked or fallen off as you say..

I would say you need to learn how to weld... Mig can be a bitch, tig is ideal, and the torch is how is poor boys do it.
 
haha I do know how to weld, the metal is so soft on the xB's. you rest your hand on the hood put about 20-30 lbs of weight and voila you have a nice dent, goto the dearship and see for your self.

And as far as the pic's I will have to goto my sisters house and take some.

I gave my xB to her since she has a son and car burnt to the ground on mothers day and she needed a 4 door to carry my nephew around.

and I kept my Mark VIII.
 
I agree that tig is best..................

I would say you need to learn how to weld... Mig can be a bitch, tig is ideal, and the torch is how is poor boys do it.

but like Mafioso stated, todays adhesives are the best ever. They are literally holding entire new cars together. And they stand up in crash tests. I am a very good tig welder, and I know that I could not do a door without at least a little warpage. But it is the time factor that makes the adhesive the best bet. 5 or 6 hours to fabricate and weld in the patch, versus 2 to 3 for the patch and glue.
 
but like Mafioso stated, todays adhesives are the best ever. They are literally holding entire new cars together. And they stand up in crash tests. I am a very good tig welder, and I know that I could not do a door without at least a little warpage. But it is the time factor that makes the adhesive the best bet. 5 or 6 hours to fabricate and weld in the patch, versus 2 to 3 for the patch and glue.

Thank you for Seconding my opinion. I can promise that shaving with panel bond will outlive the car. :)
 
You are welcome..............

Thank you for Seconding my opinion. I can promise that shaving with panel bond will outlive the car. :)

And as far as the quality of todays adhesives goes, they are even starting to use glues in place of bolts on some alternators. And they are not failing even in underhood conditions. It is not like the spot where the door handles were removed from are high traffic or high wear areas.
 
Mafioso, you have been vindicated..................

I do have a tip that will SAVE anyones a$$ shaving.. I discovered this great stuff made by 3M 8115 panel adhesive. OMG ive shaved 3 cars using this stuff and not a problem yet, the cars are about 4 years in the weather.

8115 panel bond drys to a rock hard filler type material which you can sand and smooth out.

IMHO its better then welding and mud. Welding warps the metal I dont care who you are you will warp a panel :) And Mud.. well... not much I can say about it that everyone alreadys knows.

On powerblock TV this weekend, they were working on an S-10 pickup. Thye call it project S-10 K. The whole premise is to keep the cost under 10 grand. They were doing the S-10's cab corner rust repair. They did a 6 X 10 panel with compound surfaces and guess what they used. You got it, adhesive. ANd they stated that it would last the life of the truck. I am sure that if a cab corner will last, then shaved door inserts will be no issue.
 
You mean like these.....

mycar.jpg

mycar2.jpg

mycar3.jpg

mycar4.jpg

mycar5.jpg


That decklid would be cool if you had the word lincoln mark viii running across it and it lite up,i might try that with some black tape and at night turn on the rear lightsand see if i like it.
 
On powerblock TV this weekend, they were working on an S-10 pickup. Thye call it project S-10 K. The whole premise is to keep the cost under 10 grand. They were doing the S-10's cab corner rust repair. They did a 6 X 10 panel with compound surfaces and guess what they used. You got it, adhesive. ANd they stated that it would last the life of the truck. I am sure that if a cab corner will last, then shaved door inserts will be no issue.
I believe 3m makes the adhesive,alot of body shops use it now,my guess it is like window sealent adhesive,like 93 and up lt1 z'z and trans am's have there doors held together with that stuff and there is alot of new cars that use that glue.
 
I don't believe that you did..............

Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, but I'm gonna stick with welding.

And welding is still the preferable way to do it, but for those that can't weld, or don't want to pay the exorbitant rates of the auto body shops, this is a viable and acceptable alternative. I am a very good welder, and would more than likely weld them in myself, but alternatives are always good to have. This is sort of like the synthetic vs dino oil threads. Just because it was always done a certain way, does not mean that it is the best way.
 
I think because our cars are turning into plastic that most of them will have to be glued together by that adhesive,i think our mark viii hoods are held together with the same adhesive.
 
the glue for more info that I use is 3M 8115 Panel bond, it dries to a rock hard finish that is sandable, if you do it correctly, it will seep out of the seams of the filler plate and you block it down to a nice smooth finish no mud needed.
 

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