I need help 97 double din install

Savagecat27 said:
Wuts the difference between RNA and peak output
Click to expand...

You probably meant RMS.

RMS stands for Root Mean Square. It is the measured power output from your amplifier over a long period of time. Like listening to a song and averaging out how much the amp put out over the time you were listening to the song.

Peak output is the measured power output from your amp in a very short instantaneuous moment. Kinda like when you burp some bass at a fraction of a second or when you touch two power leads together and watch things go spark and go boom as you watch the magic come out! ;)
 
Savagecat27 said:
Ok I just ordered those speakers and the 12" sub now I need to know wut I need for an amp and wut I should get for a sub box
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I kinda like the 12" you got. Never seen them before. I would think the Kicker ZX750.1 would more than put out enough for that 12. It's good for 4 ohm or 2 ohm but not any lower.

Believe this or not but the ZX1000.1 I have is wired at 6 ohms. Me and LaserSVT went back and forth, trying to figure out how it needed to be wired with my three 10's and it beats the hell out of them with very very little effort. I did have a Kicker Solobaric L7 square 12" and that amp was just a little too much for that thing IMO. I think the ZX750.1 would suit you fine and putting that 12 in the same location where Sapper has his is ideal. The bass has a good reflex, roll, bounce, w/e one wants to call it, from that spot.

My box is slot ported and it goes deep enough to sound like two 15's but they all three can produce the sound of a 10" with the right settings being set in the deck and the amp being set right.

If you don't listen to deep bass, then sealed would give you a nice clean kick and you would know it's back there. I don't do round ported boxes so, I can't even suggest there. If you do listen to deep bass, you'll need to make sure that it can handle that type of enclosure. The bass will be deep with a slot ported / vented box and if it's not done right, expect distortion. Most just go with sealed enclosures for a good tight thump in the trunk.

In your case, I would do the same. I chose the vented style enclosure a long time ago. The box was built to JL Audio's specs, straight off one of their CD's by a professional. It's not an eBay enclosure and if you can put the extra $ into it, it might be best to take the sub into a stereo shop and let them put that sub into various types to give you an idea but keep in mind, you will be hearing it inside a large room, not in the trunk. The sound will be a lot different. Get the amp you want and everything all setup and then take it in so that an enclosure can be tested in your trunk. You might like sealed and you might like the normal ported type and you might like a vented enclosure. Some shops will do this for you and some might not. They kinda like the little rich kids that mom and dad are giving a few thousand $ to install a system in their new car. Some are snobby and think if you have empty pockets, they have nothing to say to you. Every shop is different but calling and asking doesn't hurt. Pawn shops have enclosures too. Stop and check some out.

This amp will push that Infinity more than enough.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Kicker-ZX750-1-Mono-Amp-750-Watts-ZX-Series-11ZX7501-11-ZX750-1-ZX-7501-NEW-/271067799159?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3f1ce65e77

Power Specifications - Subwoofer Channel
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 375 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power @ 2 ohms 750 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power @ 1 ohm Not Stable
Peak Power Output Not Specified

Amplifier Specifications
Amplifier Class D
Number of Channels 1 - Mono
Total Peak Power Output N/A
Total RMS Power Output 750 watts
Maximum Input Gauge Size 4 AWG
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable
THD at Rated RMS Power <1%
Speaker Level Inputs Yes
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 200 Hz
Subsonic Filter 25 Hz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 95 dB
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB
Bass/Gain Remote Yes
Fan Cooled No
Fuse Rating 40A x 2
CEA-2006 Compliant Yes

Vented enclosure that doesn't cost a lot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Inch-Single-Ported-Subwoofer-Box-12-L-Port-Sub-Enclosure-Vented-Black-carpet-/320994780173?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item4abcc7a40d

Sealed enclosure. 1.20 cu ft. but I don't know what the specs are for your sub. I haven't really looked any of that up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-12-inch-3-4-MDF-Sealed-Car-Sub-Woofer-Enclosure-Box-1-20-Cubic-Ft-Volume-/300797237153?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item4608e997a1

EDIT:

sealed box volume: 1.0 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 2.0 cu. ft.

More specs for enclosures on this particular sub.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Qveqzon00gP/p_1081209W/Infinity-120-9w.html#Enclosure%20Compatibility
 
Enclosure Compatibility for The Sub You Bought!


Sealed Box: Infinity recommends a sealed enclosure with an internal volume of 1.0 cu/ft.
Ported Box: Infinity recommends a ported enclosure with an internal volume of 2.0 cu/ft with one 4" diameter x 13.625" long port. This equates to a tuning frequency of 30 Hz. They also recommend using a sub-sonic filter.
Sealed Bandpass Box: When using a bandpass enclosure Infinity recommends a sealed rear chamber volume of 1.0 cu/ft and a ported front chamber volume of 1.0 cu/ft with a 4" diameter x 6.625" long port. This equates to a tuning frequency of 60 Hz. They also recommend using a sub-sonic filter.
Free-air Mounting: In addition to being compatible with sealed, ported, and bandpass enclosures, the woofer can be used in free-air applications. A free-air subwoofer is designed to be mounted on a baffle board, which separates the front of the speaker from the back. For instance, you could mount this woofer to a board attached to the rear deck or placed in the trunk against the rear seat. The trunk acts as the enclosure housing the subwoofer. Because there is no specific volume of air to stiffen the suspension, the free-air power handling is approximately half that of the woofer in a box, in this case 175 watts RMS.
 
Savagecat27 said:
Ok so any recommendations for a speakers amp
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Inside speakers? If you don't care to two amps, try the one that Sapper bought and has hooked up and says is clear sounding. Just type in MB Quart 4 channel amp on eBay. They are really inexpensive and have been around a long time. I remember them when I was in my late teens.
 
And for the sub it says it can be switched from 2 or 4 ohms is one better than the other and same question wut do I want the watts to be
 
Savagecat27 said:
And for the sub it says it can be switched from 2 or 4 ohms is one better than the other and same question wut do I want the watts to be
Click to expand...

If you got that amp, you would switch the sub to 2 ohms but if you had two of those subs, you would switch both to 4 ohms and that amp would easily push two of those.

The 4 channel amp needs to have around an 80 watt RMS X 4 @ 4 ohm and that should sound off just fine for you. So many to choose from, I could sit here and pick amps out all day. A JL Audio 300/4 used would be a good one for you. That's just something you're going to have to pick out, depending on what you wanna spend. I have bought used amps off ebay and never been burned once but also check CL in your area for some good ones that you can go and hear for yourself.
 
Savagecat27 said:
No I think it's the sub that can be switched from 2 to 4 ohms
Click to expand...

That's what I said. If you got that amp, you would want to switch the sub to 2 ohms. There isn't any 2 ohm or 4 ohm load setting on the amp. It's only good for as low as a 2 ohm load, which will give you full potential. If you ever went with a 2nd 12, you would want to switch both subs to 4 ohm and connect them parallel and you would then be pushing the amp in a 2 ohm load again. I can't hook all three of my 10's up in a parallel series because they're 4 ohm subs and I should have gotten 8 ohm but I wasn't thinking. One is hooked up straight and two are in parallel and I'm pushing my Kicker amp in 6 ohms but it's not holding anything back. Not hurting the amp or subs either way. If I tried hooking all three up in parallel, that could fry the amp because it's not stable for less than 2 ohms. JL Audio sub amp is and a few others, if you want to spend the money.
 
 
Savagecat27 said:
Wut size power cables for each amp and wut size for the speaker wires
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I would run either 0 or 2 gauge from the battery, to the trunk and go into a distribution block that will accept 0 - 2 gauge power wire and have two outputs for 4 gauge wire. 20ft. of power wire should be sufficient to make it back there. Never hurts to get a few feet extra.

For the price, this is what I would run to the trunk. Don't cheat the amps out of the power they need.
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-ft-0-Gauge-Red-Car-Audio-Power-Ground-Wire-Cable-20-Feet-Zero-AWG-USA-Ship-/390471637718?_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D110%26meid%3D3205183344656181389%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1063%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D221060081714%26[/URL]

Then for a distribution block, if you want something good but as cheap as possible... I would consider this one.
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tsunami-Marine-Ground-Distribution-Block-1-1-0-Gauge-Input-2-4-Gauge-Output-/390483805928?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Distribution_Blocks&hash=item5aeaa606e8[/URL]

4 gauge wire, I would just get about 12 ft. of each. One 12ft. piece of red or blue, your choice and one 12 ft. piece of brown or black. This would give you 6ft. of wire from the block to each amp and 6ft. from the amp to your grounding point. I don't know where you plan to mount the amps but maybe you do and you could measure and get a better idea of the length you'll need. It's better to have room to cut off some than to be too short. Also at the same time, the shorter the ground wires are, the better. The same for the power wires. Less travel for power means the best possible power. I'm saying 12ft. because you would be cutting it in half but maybe 14ft. and having 7ft. of each to work with would be better. Not knowing where you're mounting the amps, I can't suggest a true length but you can measure.

Maybe you could get by with four 5ft. pieces, I don't know but like I said, being able to cut some off is better than not having enough.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-FT-4-GAUGE-GA-AWG-WIRE-CABLE-POWER-GROUND-SUPER-FLEXIBLE-/230838153638?pt=US_Car_Audio_Power_Speaker_Wire&hash=item35bf06b1a6[/URL]

You're also going to need RCA cables. Do not go cheap on those. They mean a lot to your overall sound you'll end up with and twisted style is the way to go. I personally went with JL on those too but there are some that are just as good and some that are better I guess. 17ft. to 20ft. should be plenty of length from the head unit to where ever you place the amps.

19ft. 4 channel cables made by Kicker for a good price.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-09ZI46-6-Meters-19-ft-4-Channel-RCA-Audio-Interconnect-Signal-Cable-/300804656750?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Interconnect_Cables&hash=item46095ace6e&vxp=mtr[/URL]

Kicker 2 channel RCA's for the sub amp.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-09ZI255-Meters-16-5-ft-2-Channel-Z-Series-RCA-Audio-Interconnect-Cable-/300805508547?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Interconnect_Cables&hash=item460967cdc3&vxp=mtr[/URL]

The remote wire can be bought anywhere.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-FT-18-GA-AWG-GAUGE-BLUE-PRIMARY-POWER-AMP-REMOTE-TURN-ON-WIRE-COOPER-CABLE-/140865658418?pt=US_Car_Audio_Power_Speaker_Wire&hash=item20cc3f5e32[/URL]

Within 12 to 15 inches of the battery, you'll need a fuse block. I went with this one and a 150 amp fuse.

Fuses alone. I have yet to blow one or have any problems with this fuse. I still have an extra one put up somewhere.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-ANL150-09ANL150-150-Amp-ANL-Fuse-2-Pack-/300798459765?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item4608fc3f75[/URL]

Fuse block that will accommodate your wire and the fuse linked above is here. This was just my choice, doesn't have to be yours also.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-FHA-Nickel-Plated-1-0-4-Gauge-AWG-AFS-ANL-Fuse-Holder-/300798391129?_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D110%26meid%3D3205919614123348713%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1063%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D261122821414%26[/URL]

That doesn't have to be mounted. Mine just lays right here and it never moves, or hasn't for the past 2 or more years.

W3Z2003.jpg


As for the box you mentioned, I think it will be just fine.


  • sealed hatchback style enclosure for one 12" sub woofer
  • 5/8" MDF (medium-density fiberboard) with black carpet covering
  • cutout size: 11-1/16"
  • internal volume: 1.27 cubic feet
  • dimensions: 17-1/4"W x 14-3/8"H x 13-5/8"D1 x 10-7/16"D2
  • warranty: 1 year
 
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