I love how little jobs turn in to BIG jobs

[Stangman]

So tonight, it was gorgeous here in Cincy... mid 60's.... gotta love it


So I decided I needed to get to work on my Mark, I had planned to take the rear springs out and cut a small amout off to try and bring the back level with the front.

Well I got the spring out no problem. While staring at the suspension, I remembered I had brand new subframe brackets in the garage waiting for their turn to go in! (You already know where this is headed don't ya?)

So anywho, I get the two small bolts out w/ no trouble. And I already knew that the long bolt in the passenger side was spinning, so I cut a hole with a hole saw and beat the flanges down back over the encapsulatd nut, and started racheting the bolt..... but the whole bushing turns!!

The bolt backs out of the nut, and pushes the subframe away from the car, but the bolt is seized tight in the bushing.

It appears the only fix is to remove the whole rear subframe and use brute force and power tools to remove that bolt.

Unless someone has better ideas?


Also, as it sits... I may need to buy 4 long bolts and 4 bushings if I run in to this problem on the others.... anyone got any good parts for sale?

 

[Right on the Mark]

Remember there is more then one way to skin a cat. How about you cut off the head and push the shank of bolt up into frame. I would not remove sub just for one bolt broken. Or drill that sucker out. That how I think I got mine out.

 

[Stangman]

No room to push the shank up in it. I am just mad at it. Its going to be even nicer tomorrow so I will go back out and look at it with a fresh outlook... might figure out a solution right off the bat.

Are the rubber bushings a two piece design?

Also, the other side might be just as bad... haven't gotten to it yet

 

[driller]

Ugh... I ended up destroying one of my bushings to get the long bolt out when I replaced the original subframe braces. I used a air chisel. I've heard a sawzall works too.

 

[zmt325]

do you have a slide hammer? like a dent puller?

 

[Stangman]

Ugh... I ended up destroying one of my bushings to get the long bolt out when I replaced the original subframe braces. I used a air chisel. I've heard a sawzall works too.

What exactly did you do?

do you have a slide hammer? like a dent puller?

Yes, but not enough room to use it. I'm out in a gravel driveway lol

 

[Right on the Mark]

No room to push the shank up in it. I am just mad at it. Its going to be even nicer tomorrow so I will go back out and look at it with a fresh outlook... might figure out a solution right off the bat.

Are the rubber bushings a two piece design?

Also, the other side might be just as bad... haven't gotten to it yet

What no room to push up? I think my steel tube that was frozen to bolt pulled out of bushing. Its been years so hard to remember everything. Oh man working on your back stinks!!

 

[Stangman]

What no room to push up? I think my steel tube that was frozen to bolt pulled out of bushing. Its been years so hard to remember everything.

I may have misunderstood you. I'm going to try another approach tomorrow. I think I know what you are getting at

And yes, it does stink but I'm used to it. I have a foxbody that's torn to pieces... been on jackstands in the garage for like 6 years.... keeps snowballing lol

 

[DieselDan]

I would put a jack under the subframe next to the bushing and put some weight on the jack then keep on smacking the subframe with a big hammer... Just a thought.

 

[Stangman]

I tried something very similar to that.

I also welded a small bead from the frame to the upper bushing where metal was exposed, and tried to unbolt it... and it wasn't having any of it. Its rusted tight.

Anyone know the length and thread of those long subframe bolts?

Thinking about getting some from Fastenal just in case.

 

[DLF]

M12x1.75x130mm 10.9

 

[Stangman]

Thank you DLF

 

[DLF]

Thank you DLF

You're welcome.

Have you read this thread?

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=77102

 

[Stangman]

A while back, but thanks for bringing it back to the front for me.... reading that also makes me realize that my car is also missing the bottom metal pads!

 

[driller]

do you have a slide hammer? like a dent puller?

I tried that and it didn't work.

What exactly did you do?

I used the air chisel to destroy the bushings until the bolt and bushing sleeve were free. It wasn't easy but it was effective.

 

[Stangman]

Wheewwww....... finally.

Got home at 5 today and went out and started dragging my tools back out.

Bought 2 nice, tall 6 ton jackstands from harbor freight yesterday. Lifted the car and placed them behind the sway bar mounts about 6 inches back. Just enough room to work.

Well I tore apart the trivial stuff like sway bar links, shocks, removed the springs, then my friend showed up to give me a hand.

I was able to get the small subframe bracket bolts out w/ no issues. But proceeded to break the head off the drivers front long bolt

I successfully busted loose the drivers rear long bolt and it came all the way out.

Moved to the passenger side, ground down my useless weld, and spun that front out. Then broke the head off the passenger rear long bolt. Also the sleeve and bolt were seized in the rubber. So after fighting w/ every stuck bushing and rusted bolt we finally got all bolts loose.

Got in the trunk and disconnected the abs sensors, fed them thru the car. Hung the calipers... and oh by the way disconnecting the ebrake cables is a whore when they are rusty!

So after several hours of cussing, the subframe is OUT!!!

Now to try and remove the old bolts that are rusted in the car.... DLF how did you know where the holes in the trunk were??? I am going to have to gain access to them.

Now I am soo tired I can't remember what I wanted to type and I am falling asleep!

Later!

 

[DLF]

DLF how did you know where the holes in the trunk were??? I am going to have to gain access to them.

Well, there are no "holes" in the trunk, you have to cut them.

I measured twice, cut once, and got close enough.

So, basically, a SWAG.

You should be able to get even closer, using my pics as a reference. That's a 2" diameter hole.

 

[Stangman]

Cool. That's what I meant... cut... lol

I'm tired. I am not sure exactly how I am going to get the right rear and left front bolts out. I am hoping a pipe wrench. If not...... large holes and remove the encapsulated nut and torch em til the bolt comes out... then hammer the fingers back over it when replaced


Oh, also, is there any sort of alignment procedure for the rear subframe?

 

[DLF]

Oh, also, is there any sort of alignment procedure for the rear subframe?

Yes.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=895389&postcount=34

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=192026&postcount=60

 

[Stangman]

Ah ha! You are my hero!

Id say I can't wait to reinstall it.... but I need to get my 4.10/trac lok installed first!

 

[DLF]

Ah ha! You are my hero!

Id say I can't wait to reinstall it.... but I need to get my 4.10/trac lok installed first!

No applause, please, just throw money!

 

[Stangman]

No applause, please, just throw money!

LOL

Well if its any consolation, I would buy a subframe bushing kit from you If I hadn't already planned to use my money for other things...

I will be coating the piss out of my new (used) southern-car bushings/bolts/etc.... bathing them in grease and antiseize! Lol

 

[DLF]

Nope, it isn't, I can't spend consolation on go-fast goodies.

Good luck with your car.

 

[beerdog]

I love the title of this thread. There is no way this was ever going to be a little job.

 

[Stangman]

Lol I should have known too... and honestly I kinda did. But thought it would be a good title for a thread anyway.

Currently my diff housing is at my buddy's place waiting to get rebuilt, and I am waiting for my bushings and bolts from racebronco2, and I should be good to go soon.

I didn't take any pics on deinstall but I will take pics for reinstall.