Hub swap/front brake mod

Right on the Mark said:
Oh yeah I forgot about your stuck axle.
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....and I'm still waiting, the tire/alignment/oil change shop is confident they can press the shaft out of the good knuckle, but so far they haven't done it.
Their mgt. won't allow him to use anything more than propane gas for heat. He did say he tried soaking it with a mixture of diesel fuel and trans oil...still no luck
Waiting sux but it looks like another knuckle will be $50
 
leaky caliper square-edge gaskets from inside the bore: PBR dual piston on the left, Mark VIII rear on the right,
caused by lack of fluid when inserting the piston?
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Nope, caused by not using Brake Assembly Lube.. but that's probably the wrong info
Brake Fluid will work as a lube, but you'd need to lube the Seal AND the Piston
And for the record, those are called Square Cut Seals
 
the align shop tried to press it out so I could reuse the knuckle/stub axle...no luck, even if it came out now the knuck is trash/deformed from the press
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now I need a knuckle, hey Sapp, you wanna deal on used parts??? lol
 
Press? Christ. I have a 30 ton unit and I've never deformed a piece of steel like that. I'd ask em how many times did they hit it with a 8lb sledge.
 
yea, I dunno if it got deformed from the dead blows or from the 20 ton press...the guy said he's worked on snow plows in NY, so I presume who knew what he was doing....I'm not worried about it, just wanna get the car moving again!
 
Looks to me like they didn't know there is a tool to press out the half shaft
I've never run across one I couldn't get out.
 
slowmkviii said:
Looks to me like they didn't know there is a tool to press out the half shaft
I've never run across one I couldn't get out.
Click to expand...
they supported the knuckle on the 3 flat spots behind each ear; they used their 20 ton press, lubed it, waited, pressed, heated it, tried soaking it with trans flid/diesel fuel; ...they also wailed on it after pressing failed..
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no worries, an LVC-er right down I-75 from me has offered to set me up with a knuckle...I'll be rolling again soon, now I'm looking at 1'' lowered Vogs!
:headbang:
 
1" lowered springs won't do much..they are intended for a thunderbird not a mark viii which has totally different perches and LCAs as I'm sure you know so it won't be literally 1" lower than stock mark viii ride height..mine are 1.25" lower and the rears combined with DLFs perches sit at stock height and the fronts are slightly lower so I wouldn't waste money on those vogtlands unless they're the 1.6" springs which I know are unavailable now. I would just cut your springs for the mean time till you can find a set of 1.6" or maybe eibachs.
 
eh, i dunno, I 'think' 1'' would be noticeable
here's the white one on factory rims, 225/60/16s and 1.5'' dropped Eibachs, no rear isolators and minimal snowflake upper perch
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the brown one, std height Stutmaster kit
on 245/45/17s 30mm
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You don't have anything holding the spring in the lower control arms?
 
keVIIIn said:
You don't have anything holding the spring in the lower control arms?
Click to expand...
nope, on the brown one there's nothing; on the white one I got an oil filter wrench (cap socket type) that fits exactly inside the coil and bolted it (centered) to the LCA then put the coil over it; a lot of guys feel even that is not needed
 
I received the replacement/straight rear drivers knuckle (stub axle) in the mail today. Big thanks to Lobird!
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The mech at my local shop wants my business and claims he'll have no prob getting the 4.5 hub out of the bent knuckle and putting it in the straight knuckle. Does the bearing usually get trashed when pressing it from the knuckle?
What bearing should I get if the old one cannot be reused? He suggested using a NAPA if need be
 
Bearing usually doesn't get trashed, but I wouldn't reuse the one in the bent knuckle. I have a hub here at the house with an inner race stuck on it. One of these days, I'll take a torch and sweat it/press it off.
 
why not use the one from the bent knuckle? it 'seems' to spin smoothly
 
If the spindle took a hit hard enough to bend it, all that force went thru the bearing... and for only $40 at AutoZone, I would just replace it.
 
Safe bet is to replace it Dan, its not something you want to do again in 2 months because the old one failed.
 
local shop pulled hub from bent knuckle and put it and a new timkin bearing in the straight knuckle for the costo f the bearing....$20
 
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