Help needed removing door panel

R

REDBED

Well-Known LVC Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
274
Reaction score
3
Location
Rahway
I am trying to remove the inside front passenger panel. Removed 6 screws and unsnapped panel from door. Does the trim around the door handle need to be removed ? The top right part just above the single screw wont move. Is there a lip that the panel sits in at the top? Thank You for any advice, this rattle is driving me nuts.
 
Yes the door handle trim (the black backing) needs to be removed. Pry it off carefully with a pick or other thin instrument. Also make sure that when you remove you dont pull to hard, you will either 1) break the plastic clips or 2) break the wiring harness for the window switches.
 
Still Stuck

Thank You for your reply cabal.
If you meant the 2 screws under the door pull they have been removed. I still can not remove the top part of the panel from the door frame. What holds the the top of panel to the door frame? Are they the white plastic push on fastners?
I look at the shop drawing and theres 9 of them. Thank You for any help
 
REDBED said:
Thank You for your reply cabal.
If you meant the 2 screws under the door pull they have been removed. I still can not remove the top part of the panel from the door frame. What holds the the top of panel to the door frame? Are they the white plastic push on fastners?
I look at the shop drawing and theres 9 of them. Thank You for any help
Click to expand...

If you have all the screws out, including the one behind the armrest, then you just have to pull really really hard.
 
if my memory serves me correctly, there is a screw behind the plastic handle trim which secures the panel to the door frame.
 
best tool I ever bought was a door panel trim remover from pepboys. $4.00 and it has saved me multiple headaches. Easy to get to the plastic retainers and pop them out.

if my memory serves me correctly, there is a screw behind the plastic handle trim which secures the panel to the door frame.
Click to expand...

Yes there is one there. But it is only on one side..can't remember if its the drivers or the pass side.
 
joegr said:
If you have all the screws out, including the one behind the armrest, then you just have to pull really really hard.
Click to expand...

yes, the top edge is not like older cars where there is a lip that has to slide over the top, other than the screws that lock the panel on, all around the edge (including the top where it touches the glass) is held on by the same plastic clips, and they are just a bicth to get to release.
 
kaball said:
Yes there is one there. But it is only on one side..can't remember if its the drivers or the pass side.
Click to expand...

then your car is missing a screw, both of my LS's were symmetric (excluding the window switch panel of course)
 
1LoudLS said:
then your car is missing a screw, both of my LS's were symmetric (excluding the window switch panel of course)
Click to expand...

I was mistaken. I was remembering the rear doors that do not have one behind the door release.

Here is a diagram that I got from crutchfield for the door panel removal with the Alpine system.

If you need the whole guide PM me and I can send it to you.

front door speakers2.jpg


front door speakers.jpg
 
So the silver trim around the dooor handle needs to be removed and the top of the panel is held on by the white plastic fastners. Thank You All for your help.
 
wait wait wait, what gen is this, silver = 2nd gen, and does not come off like 1st gens.
 
1LoudLS said:
yes, the top edge is not like older cars where there is a lip that has to slide over the top, other than the screws that lock the panel on, all around the edge (including the top where it touches the glass) is held on by the same plastic clips, and they are just a bicth to get to release.
Click to expand...

old post but on the first page of a goolge search, Good info, I didn't want to break the door panel man handling it but that is how the top had to come off to release the clips. First window regulator on drivers front for me $100 bucks off amazon and hours worth of time, not bad but talk about 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag. Too much crap crammed in that door on a loaded 03 ls. Old regulator looked to be a ford part but I did find some old clips in the door, not sure if that's the first or second one, went with a dorman brand since its lifetime warranty.
 
rednotch said:
...Too much crap crammed in that door on a loaded 03 ls. ...
Click to expand...

Loaded or base, the stuff in the door is exactly the same. The exception to this is the speaker, but the three different speakers are all more or less the same external size.
You're going to find that the lifetime warranty is worthless sold though Amazon. Next time, pay a little more and buy it locally. (I'm a big Amazon fan and buy everything that I can there, but not things like this.)
 
Going to do my window regulator install this afternoon when I get out of work. Also going to install my new 6x8 NVX N series speakers.

Before I do so though, can I get a quick verification on the door panel removal? After reading the comments as well as the procedure linked by Joe, I've concluded that all I have on my 2nd gen door panel is two screws located behind the door trim panel handle (the #2 piece in linked procedure diagram). And I have no screws located behind the door trim panel applique (the #11 piece in linked procedure diagram) correct?

So other than the two screws, I just pop out the window control module and disconnect the harness? Just want to be certain so I don't break any clips etc. Thanks
 
SoulSoak said:
... So other than the two screws, I just pop out the window control module and disconnect the harness? Just want to be certain so I don't break any clips etc. Thanks
Click to expand...

You're missing quite a few of them.
There's one on the side, marked 5 on the diagram.
There are three at the bottom, marked 4 on the diagram.
You also have to disconnect the door handle.
 
joegr said:
You're missing quite a few of them.
There's one on the side, marked 5 on the diagram.
There are three at the bottom, marked 4 on the diagram.
You also have to disconnect the door handle.
Click to expand...

Damn I hope I don't rape this door panel. I have to disconnect the door handle before I pull the panel loose? If so, how? Or do I remove all the screws, pull the panel loose and free from the clips, then disconnect the handle from the metal hangar?
 
SoulSoak said:
...Or do I remove all the screws, pull the panel loose and free from the clips, then disconnect the handle from the metal hangar?
Click to expand...

This, almost. You disconnect a mechanical cable from the door handle.
 
Man! I hope my power windows never go bad!
I did have the inside of the driver's door off,I guess,partway maybe.Can't remember except I know I saw the locking mechanism and oiled it.That's when I found out if you remove the right screw from that lock,you don't have to remove the door panel to lube it.You can spray white lithium grease right thru that screw hole. don-ohio
 
don-ohio said:
Man! I hope my power windows never go bad!
I did have the inside of the driver's door off,I guess,partway maybe.Can't remember except I know I saw the locking mechanism and oiled it.That's when I found out if you remove the right screw from that lock,you don't have to remove the door panel to lube it.You can spray white lithium grease right thru that screw hole. don-ohio
Click to expand...

Just don't roll them all the way up or all the way down. Keep that pressure off the regulator and it'll never break because pressure's bad, right?

It's not that difficult a job to do, front or rear glass. But you will want to keep a couple of suction cups in the car as when they fail the glass goes to the bottom. Pay attention when you raise or lower the glass, if you ever hear the sound of cracking plastic when the window hits the top, your regulator plastic just cracked and you need to order a new regulator right then, that day. My car has 4 new regulators put in over the last two years, every single one of them announced failure with a slight CRRKK sound when the window was rolled up, and every single one of them had cracked plastic somewhere on the regulator.
 
Telco said:
Just don't roll them all the way up or all the way down. Keep that pressure off the regulator and it'll never break because pressure's bad, right?

It's not that difficult a job to do, front or rear glass. But you will want to keep a couple of suction cups in the car as when they fail the glass goes to the bottom. Pay attention when you raise or lower the glass, if you ever hear the sound of cracking plastic when the window hits the top, your regulator plastic just cracked and you need to order a new regulator right then, that day. My car has 4 new regulators put in over the last two years, every single one of them announced failure with a slight CRRKK sound when the window was rolled up, and every single one of them had cracked plastic somewhere on the regulator.
Click to expand...

Yes,PRESSURE'S BAD,Telco!LOL! I'm pretty easy on stuff....so is the wife.She DID break the traction control button on the other car(I fixed it) and just broke THIS car's though(too cold and windy out there to fix anything). Both times she thought it was the emergency brake release.Ha!
I happen to have 2 suction cups in the basement....I guess I'll put them in the trunk with the extra thermostat housing and the other plastic piece the thermostat housing bolts to?
Thanks for the heads up on the plastic part in the door,Telco. I'll tell the wife to be gingerly with it.
don-ohio :)^)
 
Telco said:
Just don't roll them all the way up or all the way down. Keep that pressure off the regulator and it'll never break because pressure's bad, right?
Click to expand...

That probably helps. Also, don't close your door without closing the window first. Sure, you could gently catch the first latch, then lean on the door to close it, but then you'll look like you're having too much personal time with your car

don-ohio said:
.She DID break the traction control button on the other car(I fixed it) and just broke THIS car's though(too cold and windy out there to fix anything).
Click to expand...

It was probably already a little broken. She just made sure it was fully broken. My Message Center button mounts were fully broken. My TC button was only halfway there when I fixed it
 
Last edited:
Was being serious on the suction cups, a tip I picked up here. I keep a pair in the car now in case a regulator fails and causes the window to slam to the bottom.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 393 (members: 0, guests: 393)
Back
Top