Heat Not Working

GrayGhost1 said:
Keep me posted on your DATC unit swap. I had mine replaced last year due to the A/C not working. Hopefully it's not going out again.
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Drove my wife's car the other day and her's did the same thing, so I don't think I am going to bother doing the swap. I have learned to keep the temp up a little higher and no problems. I wish my damn heated seat would keep working though. It is intermittent.
 
beaups said:
same issue for me. would be nice if you could turn the system back on with the same settings as when you turned it off
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oh stupid me, someone mentioned this a couple threads above.
 
GrayGhost1 said:
This morning I had the temp set at 76 and it blew warm/hot air all the way to work. Seems to be ok now. However, once I knocked it down to around 72 the defrost started blowing much cooler air. I'm going to run it like this for a a few weeks to see if maybe it'll work out.

Keep me posted on your DATC unit swap. I had mine replaced last year due to the A/C not working. Hopefully it's not going out again.
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Ken (or anyone looking) -

Did you ever resolve this issue? Was it the DATC, DCCV or some other part? TIA
 
theres a bleeder screw by coolant reservoir, otherwise the problem is thermostat or almost always coolant control valve by the radiator. its about a 300$ part
 
Dealer recommended (and did) an AC recharge when I had the inverese problem to this - AC blowing hot on one or both sides - and even then I suspected that was not the issue. I replaced the thermostat ~1 month ago when the car showed signs of a slow warm-up. Thermostat was a little slow but could not possibly be the culptrit as the car was warm in 10 miniutes. So I'm thinking its not the electronics (DATC) but rather the DCCV.

I wonder if the dealer would install the part if bought it off Torrie or Bill for a lot cheaper than their retail cost? The install does not seem that complicated but the proper refilling/bleeding of the coolant could be a hassle, probably worth the $300 in labor folks say it is.

Does anyone have good luck when you go to a Lincoln dealer and say "install this part" vs "find an answer to my problem"? Is an independant shop better for that type of thing?
 
highlander, almost all the time its the coolant control valve. bleeding the coolant is not a problem, just get the car hot keep level full and turn the bleeder, that will get all your air out.
 
Possible intermittent problem in MI

I have been fighting a no-heat @ idle problem for a week on my '02 LSE. Thanks to LVC for many tips. I bled the coolant profusely to no avail - still cold. I got into AllData and was able to print out the schematics for the cooling system and wiring. I found the DCCV and aux pump. I unplugged their common 6-pin harness and when I started the car I could feel all lines from the DCCV area hot and started getting warm air right away. Once the car reached temp it was toasty. I thought I read somewhere online that unplugging the DCCV wires would default it to heat. This is consistent with an opposite problem that AllData describes - that failed solenoids on DCCV will prohibit cooling (i.e. defaults to heat with no current - same as unplugged). I expected my cold air to return once plugging in the harness again but it was OK. I went to 65F setting on passenger side with 85F on driver - both hot. I went to AC/cold on both and they got ice cold (mind you it was -6F this AM in SE MI). I went back to 90F and they got hot again. I noticed that with recirculation on, it was hottest.

So, my problem was no heat at idle and minimal heat at 2k-3k RPM. That means that I did not have enough coolant flow through the heater core. The car has 104k miles and I have no reason to expect coolant blockage to the heater core. This was confirmed today with high heat output. Contrary to what's written above about the aux pump, I was able to achieve high temp air from the vents at idle with the aux pump unplugged. With the engine at 2500 RPM, there was more heat low to the core and indeed the vent air temp was slightly higher. The aux pump would clearly increase this flow and air temp but I have not been able to confirm that the aux pump is used for cabin heating at all. I've seen notes about the aux pump being used to provide extra cooling for the cylinder heads (allowed more efficient engine driven pump?) and allowing continuous coolant flow when the engine is stopped and the engine driven pump is not working. I suspect this engine-off cooling was the primary reason for the aux pump. My problem absolutely changed and is at least temporarily resolved after disconnecting the DCCV/auxpump connector and reconnecting it (while running engine). I don't know why, but maybe the DCCV is starting to fail, was stuck and I somehow unstuck it.

Sorry for the long post. This thread may be dead but hopefully my experiments will help someone else. I'll update this if the situation changes.
 
Thanks for the advice bro. Now all I have to do is run out and unplug it too... umm.. where is it again, have the diagram ?
 
DCCV location '02 LS.

The DCCV is located in the engine compartment, passenger side next to radiator about half way down. It has four coolant lines that are rubber and transition to metal lines that run along the wheel well back towards passenger compartment for the heater core. I made another post last night describing the replacement procedure roughly and it may give a few more details.

Good luck
 
I sell a lot of DCCV's for this car. p/n xw4z-18495-aa listing $259.24 and LVC cost $168.51. Plenty of stock to go around if needed.

Max
 
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Information on the Aux Pump from AllDATA:

The auxiliary water pump (3.9L only):

* provides heater coolant flow boost.
* has a secondary function of providing engine-off cooling.

I am currently dealing with the marginal heat issue (2000 LSV8) and I am at a end pass on what to do.
Buy the DCCV or aux pump?
I've bleed and even replaced the degas cap to no avail.
I have also searched high and low and there does not seem to be a definitive answer to this problem.
If anyone can add how to check the functionality of the aux pump it would be appreciated.
 
Test DCCV

If your problem is narrowed to either aux pump or DCCV, I think you can test the DCCV easy enough. While running at temp and trying to get heat, all of the metal lines which go from DCCV to heater core should be hot to touch. They were for me. When my valve was still stuck (apparently), one or two of the lines were cool to the touch. This makes sense to me as it wasn't allowing flow to the core.

There is a three pin connector at the DCCV. One pin is common and the other two are ends of separate coils. They should read 13-20 Ohms each according to AllData. The aux pump has two pins and you could apply 12V to that and listen/feel for it to hum, or if removed you could pump water with it.

If both of those are OK, could be restricted flow in lines or core, but that shouldn't happen. My bet is DCCV.
 
I am also having a heater/defroster problem on my "02 v8. I get plenty of heat...as long as I keep the fan speed 3/4 of the way down or off ...turn it up and the temp drops(which sucks when your trying to defrost the winshield) this just started I used to have to turn the fan down it would get so hot. Everything seems to be working right ,eng. temp., controls etc.
Anyone with any ideas???
 
Replaced Aux Water Pump Fixed Idle Heat

It's cold again in MI and time to fix this. Bought a service manual and found it looks almost exactly like the alldatadiy.com, but easier to navigate in paper. Pretty obvious this year that no heat at idle.
Ordered a replacement pump from Max - parts@fivestarford.com who promptly sent a pump - thanks.

Installed it tonight and saw immediate improvement. Will be taking old pump into work to see if I can confirm what was wrong, motor or impeller.

Took less than 1 gal of coolant mix to refill my system after emptying radiator.
Some skinned knuckles but not too bad. A bit messy but catch pan caught most of it.
 
I've been looking for something like this for a few hours I need the procedure to replace the DCCV. Why can't i find it!
 
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