Heat Not Working

JPsBored

JPsBored

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Just started to get cod here in Mass, and noticed that my heat in my 2000 LS8 Sport takes about 30min to warm up, untill than its cold air coming out.

Even when car is warm and driving, its still blowing cold.

Possible problems? Fixes?
 
Maybe air pockets in the cooling system? I read several posts on the Camaro board about air pockets seeming to settle in the Heater Core and behaving much the same way.

A thorough flush and fill at the dealership might fix it. They can pull a vacuum on the cooling system IIRC.
 
JPsBored said:
Just started to get cod here in Mass, and noticed that my heat in my 2000 LS8 Sport takes about 30min to warm up, untill than its cold air coming out.

Even when car is warm and driving, its still blowing cold.

Possible problems? Fixes?
Click to expand...

This is a somewhat common problem on the LS -- the electronic systems that control the HVAC go wacky. What has may have happened is one of the "mixing doors" under the dash is stuck in one position and is letting in cold air. The dealer should be able to fix this easily.
 
Could also be the thermostat sticking open. That happened to me once. With the thermostat open, the coolant never gets warm enough to produce heat. You won't notice this in the summer since you wouldn't be using the heat.
 
Thanks for the help.. but my heat works really well gets nice n warm after been cold for like 15-20 min, after that it works great.

Would these fixes apply now?
 
thermostat will cause very slow warmup but usually yes it does get warm. does temp guage take a long time to get to the middle? If it takes more than a couple minutes of driving to get to the middle then I would bet money on a bad thermostat
 
beaups said:
thermostat will cause very slow warmup but usually yes it does get warm. does temp guage take a long time to get to the middle? If it takes more than a couple minutes of driving to get to the middle then I would bet money on a bad thermostat
Click to expand...


no, car warms up just fine,, btu even after car temp is halfway,, it still blows cold
 
could be a number of things. my guess is issue within heater core. either plugged line, or air pockets, etc.
 
JPsBored said:
Just started to get cod here in Mass, and noticed that my heat in my 2000 LS8 Sport takes about 30min to warm up, untill than its cold air coming out.

Even when car is warm and driving, its still blowing cold.

Possible problems? Fixes?
Click to expand...
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I seem to be having the same problem. I left work this evening and it took quite sometime before the car started to warm up. I normally keep my setting on the defroster/feet setting. I noticed that cold/cool air was coming out of the defroster vent and this was after 10-15 minutes down the road. I then switched it to the face setting and cranked it to 90. It started to blow hot air and all was good. The defroster started blowing hot air. However, once I set the temp below or around 75 degrees it started blowing cooler air again and not tepid or warm air.

My thoughts were thermostat and/or heater core. Let me know what you found out.
 
Ken, I have the same problem. Not too extreme though. If you crank the heat all the way up and get warm air as the car warms up, it is probably not a thermostat issue. A bad thermostat or one that "sticks" will produce COLD air everywhere and air pockets will allow it to get cold and then hot "all of the sudden". My wife's car blew more cold air in the defrost area until I swapped radios. It seemed to move to my car now (I moved the control unit with it). Could be coincidence, but maybe the control unit causes this problem. When I went to MI a few weeks ago in her car, it was cold outside, but her car never blew cold air. Now that we have cold air in our area, I noticed cold air in my car. :( I am about to swap the units out to see if it moves again. :)
 
This morning I had the temp set at 76 and it blew warm/hot air all the way to work. Seems to be ok now. However, once I knocked it down to around 72 the defrost started blowing much cooler air. I'm going to run it like this for a a few weeks to see if maybe it'll work out.

Keep me posted on your DATC unit swap. I had mine replaced last year due to the A/C not working. Hopefully it's not going out again.
 
anyone else notice that when you set the unit to anything but defrost, the a/c light stays on? i then switch it off , and things seem to progress normally. you would think it would be off and have to be turned on.
 
00ls-sport said:
anyone else notice that when you set the unit to anything but defrost, the a/c light stays on? i then switch it off , and things seem to progress normally. you would think it would be off and have to be turned on.
Click to expand...

The compressor defaults to "on" so as to dry the air and keep the windows from fogging. It's in the OM.
 
this gives me a few things to look at. i've got a vaccuum leak somewhere that i need to find but that's another story.

the A/C in the car is ice cold, but the heat is dead (or so i thought). now that it's getting into the 40's and 50's i figured i'd see if the heat did anything at all. it seems like there's a very low amount of heat coming from the vents but that's it. it never gets hot, usually still very cold. i'll have to check the blend door and see if the heat lines are getting hot.
 
i,m having heater issues right now..

the blower works just fine..but i cannot get warm air into the cabin of the car..

initially when the air does kick on,a tiny blast of warm air will come through the vent,then no hot air at all...

i need to get this fixed,as winter has quickly approached,and my elderly mom will be suing this vehicle..

is there a vacume actuated door?

something in the electronics i can trouble shoot..

the "onboard" drivers "center}" is not giving me any type of fault code??

any kind of info would be helpfull as i just bought this pig a few months ago and i already need front and rear air actuated "struts-shocks"..alos i have a leaky powersteering line that i cannot for my life understand how the damn thing is leaking..

thanks a bunch..

bob
 
I am glad I saw this thread because in Minnesota it is colder than a witches tit and it takes like 20 minutes to blow out warm air. I have the same problem and this must be common for the LSs as I read others having heater issues also. :mad:
 
the cadillac has computer controlled struts-shocks up front and air-bag style rear shocks...
if the steering rack is leaking,should i NOT get a new one and have the old one rebuilt?{i know in lincolns it is suggested we get the old rack rebuilt as a new rack causes more problems than not}..

also....

does anyone know what the gap on the plugs should be.. the parts store suggested .60 on the gap..so i set the plugs using the .60 gap and the car runs and idles rough...

what is the timing on these cadillacs is it .14 degrees or???

thanks...

also.. if anyone has a set of the front computer controlled shock-strut,s and an extra set of quality rear air ride style shocks,please let me know...

thanks..

bob
 
bobs 91 eldorado said:
does anyone know what the gap on the plugs should be.. the parts store suggested .60 on the gap..so i set the plugs using the .60 gap and the car runs and idles rough...
Click to expand...
You might try asking the Cadillac questions in one of the Cadillac sections, but the answer to this particular question should be found on the EPA label in the engine compartment. IIRC, it's the label that shows the belt routing, and it's normally located on the top of or around the forward bulkhead (the one to which the radiator mounts), or on the underside of the hood. It'll have a section about spark plug gap and engine timing.
 
bobs 91 eldorado said:
the cadillac has computer controlled struts-shocks up front and air-bag style rear shocks...
if the steering rack is leaking,should i NOT get a new one and have the old one rebuilt?{i know in lincolns it is suggested we get the old rack rebuilt as a new rack causes more problems than not}..

also....

does anyone know what the gap on the plugs should be.. the parts store suggested .60 on the gap..so i set the plugs using the .60 gap and the car runs and idles rough...

what is the timing on these cadillacs is it .14 degrees or???

thanks...

also.. if anyone has a set of the front computer controlled shock-strut,s and an extra set of quality rear air ride style shocks,please let me know...

thanks..

bob
Click to expand...

yes weird, you know you're asking questions in the lincoln ls forum???
 
I had the exact same problem last month on mines. It can be only three things. Blocked heater core, the auxiliary coolant pump wire harness came unplug, or the auxiliary pump is defective. Mines was defective auxiliary pump and it cost me $100 from the dealership. This unit provides good coolant flow through the heater core at idle or low speed. The regular coolant pump should give enough flow to the heater core at normal speed. A good way to check is to look at your coolant reservoir at park/idle and your heat on and see if there a constant flow of coolant going through it.
 
thanks...

and no.. i did not know this was the lincoln forum...

but i do have a 84 mark 7 with ALL kinds of works done to it...{more of course is needed!}
 
I have a question about the HVAC controls for my '02 LS. Everytime I hit 'AUTO' or the fan button, it always defaults to the AC button turning on, even though it's 30 degrees outside. is that normal? it's just annoying to have to hit the AC off and switch to heat.
 
captainalias said:
I have a question about the HVAC controls for my '02 LS. Everytime I hit 'AUTO' or the fan button, it always defaults to the AC button turning on, even though it's 30 degrees outside. is that normal? it's just annoying to have to hit the AC off and switch to heat.
Click to expand...

anyone else have this problem?
 
same issue for me. would be nice if you could turn the system back on with the same settings as when you turned it off
 
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